Lalique Dragonfly

Lalique is a beacon of French opulence in glassmaking and decorative arts, an enduring brand with a history spanning over 130 years and at least three movements in art and design: Art Nouveau, Art Deco and modernism. The firm’s founder, René Lalique, is a celebrated figure in Art Nouveau jewelry, which drew on feminine forms and natural-world themes. Under his masterful leadership, Lalique came to be known for its gorgeous vases, sculptures and glass and crystal serveware.

Rene Laliqué was born in 1860 in Aÿ-en-Champagne, France. As a young man, he apprenticed under Parisian Art Nouveau jeweler Louis Aucoc and studied at L'École nationale supérieure des Arts Décoratifs. Lalique's skill and esteem broadened, and he created jewelry for renowned houses like Cartier and Boucheron. He took over a workshop in Paris in 1885 and opened his own business soon afterward. Not one to follow trends, Lalique gained popularity for his innovative accessories, which merged glass, enamel and ivory — materials that were uncommon in jewelry-making — with semi-precious stones and metals. Lalique’s work gained greater prominence at the 1900 Paris Exhibition, which served as a showcase for his extraordinary designs.

In 1907, Lalique began a revolutionary partnership with French perfumer François Coty. He designed a line of molded glass perfume bottles with frosted surfaces and patterned reliefs. Lalique opened his eponymous glassworks in Combs-La-Ville, Paris, in 1909. His attractive bottles and other pieces were shown at the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in 1925 — the event that brought Art Deco to worldwide attention — catapulting Lalique to new levels of fame. Shortly afterward, in 1927, he created one of his most iconic pieces: the Bacchantes vase. A marvel of glassmaking that convincingly depicted movement, the vase displays his technical skills and artistry.

Lalique began receiving high-profile commissions — in 1929, he decorated the luxurious Côte d’Azur Pullman Express carriages, and in 1935, he designed lighting for the Grand Salon and dining room on the ocean liner SS Normandie.

Lalique died in 1945, and the reins at the company were passed to his son, Marc Lalique. The firm continued to produce its signature glass pieces as well as crystal vases, decor and serveware. Marc's daughter, Marie-Claude Lalique, became CEO in 1977. She renewed the traditional jewelry and fragrance side of the business. In 2008, Lalique was acquired by Art & Fragrance, now known as Lalique Group. It remains a well-regarded lifestyle brand underpinned by a rich history in glassmaking.

On 1stDibs, find vintage Lalique decorative objects, lighting, tables and more.

Fascination with the Jazz Age is endless, and even today jewelry designers continue to be inspired by authentic Art Deco jewelry and watches.

The Art Deco period, encompassing the 1920s and ’30s, ushered in a very distinct look in the design of jewelry. There were many influences on the jewelry of the era that actually began to take shape prior to the 1920s. In 1909, Serge Diaghilev brought the Ballet Russes to Paris, and women went wild for the company’s exotic and vibrant costumes It’s no wonder, then, that jade, lapis lazuli, coral, turquoise and other bright gemstones became all the rage. There already existed a fascination with the East, particularly China and Japan, and motifs consisting of fans and masks started to show up in Art Deco jewelry.

However, the event that had the greatest influence on Deco was the excavation of the tomb of King Tut in 1922. When the world saw what was hidden in Tut’s burial chamber, it sent just about everyone into a frenzy. Pierre Cartier wrote in 1923 that “the discovery of the tomb will bring some sweeping changes in fashion jewelry.” And he couldn’t have been more right. “Egyptomania” left an indelible mark on all of the major jewelry houses, from Cartier to Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron and Georges Fouquet. (Cartier created some of the most iconic jewelry designs that defined this era.)

While a lot of Art Deco jewelry was black and white — the black coming from the use of onyx or black enamel and the white from rock crystal and diamonds — there is plenty of color in jewelry of the era. A perfect accent to diamonds in platinum settings were blue sapphires, emeralds and rubies, and these stones were also used in combination with each other.

Many designers employed coral, jade and lapis lazuli, too. In fact, some of the most important avant-garde jewelers of the period, like Jean Després and Jean Fouquet (son of Georges), would combine white gold with ebony and malachite for a jolt of color.

A lot of the jewelry produced during this time nodded to current fashion trends, and women often accessorized their accessories. The cloche hat was often accented with geometric diamond brooches or double-clip brooches. Backless evening dresses looked fabulous with sautoir necklaces, and long pearl necklaces that ended with tassels, popular during the Edwardian period, were favored by women everywhere, including Coco Chanel.

Find unique Art Deco necklaces, earrings, bracelets and other jewelry on 1stDibs.