Paul Flato On Sale

Paul Flato’s flamboyant style was matched by his larger-than-life personality. He created daring and theatrical jewelry that challenged the conservative conventions of adornment. Works like his Bird of Paradise and Feather Quill brooches and his Seashell pocket watch exemplify his audacious style while reflecting his meticulous craftsmanship. His clients included celebrities such as French-American opera singer Lily Pons, American artist and socialite Gloria Vanderbilt and American actresses Joan Crawford and Mae West.

Flato was born in 1900 into a ranching family in Shiner, Texas. He later attended the University of Texas at Austin as a pre-med student, but soon shifted focus and enrolled at Columbia University in New York City to study economics. With the help of some well-connected friends — including one at Tiffany & Co. — he opened a jewelry store on Fifth Avenue in Manhattan. 

His business steadily grew, and he sold over $1 million worth of jewelry by the time he was 27. While he had a great mind for unique ideas, he enlisted the talents of more experienced jewelers for support in drafting the pieces. In 1938, Flato opened a second store in Hollywood, California. His pieces were large and eye-catching, making them perfect for the camera. 

In 1943, Flato’s jewelry career came to an abrupt halt with larceny charges for consigning a 17-carat diamond that went missing. When he was unable to pay the consignors, they pressed charges. Flato spent 18 months in Sing Sing prison. After his release, Flato he eased back into the trade by producing pens and compact cases for makeup. Poor financial decisions led again to his falling on the wrong side of the law and he fled to South America. He ended up serving four years in a Mexican prison before being sent back to the United States to serve a five-year sentence for grand larceny.

In 1970, Flato returned to Mexico and opened a boutique in Zona Rosa, Mexico City. He spent the last 20 years of his career there, fashioning bold and bright jewelry, inspired by the indigenous culture of the country. 

In 1990, Flato moved back to Texas where he died in 1999. His outlandishly imaginative pieces remain in demand with collectors today.

On 1stDibs, enjoy the wondrous imagination of Paul Flato through his brooches, watches, bracelets and more.

Rooted in centuries of history of adornment dating back to the ancient world, modern jewelry reimagines traditional techniques, forms and materials for expressive new pieces. As opposed to contemporary jewelry, which responds to the moment in which it was created, modern jewelry often describes designs from the 20th to 21st centuries that reflect movements and trends in visual culture.

Modern jewelry emerged from the 19th-century shift away from jewelry indicating rank or social status. The Industrial Revolution allowed machine-made jewelry using electric gold plating, metal alloys and imitation stones, making beautiful jewelry widely accessible. Although mass production deemphasized the materials of the jewelry, the vision of the designer remained important, something that would be furthered in the 1960s with what’s known as the “critique of preciousness.”

A design fair called the “Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes” brought global attention to the Art Deco style in 1925 and gathered a mix of jewelry artists alongside master jewelers like Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin and Boucheron. Art Deco designs from Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels unconventionally mixed gemstones like placing rock crystals next to diamonds while borrowing motifs from eclectic sources including Asian lacquer and Persian carpets. Among Cartier’s foremost design preoccupations at the time were high-contrast color combinations and crisp, geometric forms and patterns. In the early 20th century, modernist jewelers like Margaret De Patta and artists such as Alexander Calder — who is better known for his kinetic sculptures than his provocative jewelry — explored sculptural metalwork in which geometric shapes and lines were preferred over elaborate ornamentation.

Many of the innovations in modern jewelry were propelled by women designers such as Wendy Ramshaw, who used paper to craft her accessories in the 1960s. During the 1970s, Elsa Peretti created day-to-night pieces for Tiffany & Co. while designers like Lea Stein experimented with layering plastic, a material that had been employed in jewelry since the mid-19th century and had expanded into Bakelite, acrylics and other unique materials.

Find a collection of modern watches, bracelets, engagement rings, necklaces, earrings and other jewelry on 1stDibs.