Pomellato Chimera

When Pino Rabolini (1936–2018) founded Pomellato in 1967, he was continuing the heritage of goldsmithing in his Milanese family but wanted to take a different approach to fine jewelry. While so many European jewelers, including Cartier, Bulgari and Van Cleef & Arpels, were designing status pieces, Rabolini turned toward women interested in everyday style. In fact, the first few pieces he designed were an homage to the women — actresses, singers and artists — at Bar Jamaica, a popular Milanese bar frequented by the city’s creative set. He wanted to craft pieces for the women of Italy (and eventually the world) who deserved to wear fine jewelry that reflected their dynamic identities, even if they were merely headed to their unassuming local bar or cafe.

Rabolini helped revolutionize the world of fine jewelry by offering women an opportunity to wear colorful gems in their daily lives. Among the brand’s innovations were its advertising campaigns, which included work by leading black-and-white photographers like Gian Paolo Barbieri in the 1970s, Helmut Newton in the 1980s and Alistair Taylor Young, Lord Snowdon and Javier Vallhonrat in the 1990s. In the 2000s, Michel Comte led the brand's shift into color photography for its campaigns.

Pomellato released numerous collections since its inception, and in 1995 added the Dodo brand aimed at a younger audience with more playful shapes and affordable designs. But it was the 2001 Nudo collection that put the brand on the international map, giving the Nudo ring design instant cult status. Nudo, which is Italian for “nude,” seemed the most appropriate name for the ring collection given its simple, prong-free setting. The Nudo ring’s solitaire stone, which has a double-face cut, is completely exposed on all sides save for the bottom. And the band, usually rose gold, is often devoid of any stones or designs. The collection became so popular that, in 2019, Pomellato expanded upon it, adding a sautoir, which can be worn three different ways: as a classic sautoir, a lariat necklace or a double-wrap chain. It also updated the original Nudo ring to include rose-gold bands set with three rows of colored pavé diamonds.

In 2013, Pomellato was acquired by the Kering Group. The Nudo collection remains the most popular collection to date as Pomellato’s team of goldsmiths continues to produce striking jewelry from its Milan headquarters.

Find authentic Pomellato rings, necklaces, earrings and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

Antique and vintage rings have long held a special place in the hearts of fine jewelry lovers all over the world.

No matter their origin or specific characteristics, rings are timeless, versatile accessories. They’ve carried deep meaning since at least the Middle Ages, when diamond rings symbolized strength and other kinds of rings were worn to signify romantic feelings or to denote an affiliation with a religious order. Rings have also forever been emblematic of eternity.

Over time, rings have frequently taken the form of serpents, which have long been associated with eternal life, health and renewal. Italian luxury jewelry house Bulgari has become famous for its widely loved Serpenti motif, for example, and its Serpenti ring, like the other accessories in the collection, began as an homage to jewelry of the Roman and Hellenistic eras. The serpent is now a popular motif in fine jewelry. Jewelry devotees have long pined for rings adorned with reptiles, thanks to antique Victorian rings — well, specifically, Queen Victoria’s illustrious engagement ring, which took the form of a gold snake set with rubies, diamonds and an emerald (her birthstone). Designs for Victorian-era engagement rings often featured repoussé work and chasing, in which patterns are hammered into the metal.

Engagement rings, which are reliably intimidating to shop for, are still widely recognized as symbols of love and commitment. On 1stDibs, a range of buying guides can be found for those in the market for antique engagement rings, vintage engagement rings or Art Deco engagement rings. 

The most collectible antique engagement rings and vintage engagement rings are those from the Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco eras. Named for the monarchies of the four King Georges, who in succession ruled England starting in 1714 (plus King William’s reign), antique Georgian rings, be they engagement rings or otherwise, are also coveted by collectors. Pearls, along with colored gemstones like garnets, rubies and sapphires, were widely used in Georgian jewelry. The late-1700s paste jewelry was a predecessor to what we now call fashion or costume jewelry. 

The Art Nouveau movement (1880–1910) brought with it rings inspired by the natural world. Antique Art Nouveau rings might feature depictions of winged insects and fauna as well as women, who were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized, frequently with long flowing hair. Art Deco jewelry, on the other hand, which originated during the 1920s and ’30s, is by and large “white jewelry.” White metals, primarily platinum, were favored over yellow gold in the design of antique Art Deco rings and other accessories as well as geometric motifs, with women drawn to the era’s dazzling cocktail rings in particular.

Whether you’re hunting down a chunky classic for a Prohibition-themed cocktail party or seeking a clean contemporary design to complement your casual ensemble, find an exquisite collection of antique, new and vintage rings on 1stDibs.