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Couture Antique Tuxedo Wool Ribbed&QuiltedSatin FullyLined&Padded Black Tailcoat

About the Item

This antique ArtDeco-period bespoke British wool and satin black tuxedo button-decorated open-breasted tailcoat fits a women's U.S.-size 6 so well that we think it was custom-made for one. A hidden printed label identifies the couture craftsman as Harry Kay at Windsor Place, which remains one of the most sought after professional locations in the heart of Cardiff, the capital of Wales. Amusingly, it includes the very early phone number for his business of only four digits, which was the standardized local dial-up number during the 1920s in at least the United States. The tag's additional handwritten information identify his client in script as R. Robins or Robinson followed by an abbreviation of two letters possibly Sr, along with the illegible date from the early 1900s that may be the month of May given the minimal letters and possibly 1929 or 1933. Between those years, formal menswear for women was internationally popularized by movie actress Marlene Dietrich (see our photo of her in top hat and white-tie tux), jazz-associated entertainer Josephine Baker, and couture-fashion designer Coco Chanel. This coat has fine tailoring on the ribbed satin notched lapels, angled breast pocket, and button-accented draped tails and split sleeves. The tails each have an additional hidden pocket, which both function like the side pockets of pants. More so, there is a piped deep pocket on the interior of each ribbed satin breast. The entire back of the lined torso is intricately quilted to conceal the multiple curvilinear seams that contour the waist and shoulders along with pads, which also add a curve to the upper back. At the interior neck, a satin thick loop enables it to be temporarily hung on a hook. For someone who appreciates small signs of old age like minimal insect damage (see several holes in the area of the sleeves buttons), this tailcoat is suitable for either formal or casual wear--especially for outdoor use given its warmth with thick striped-satin lined sleeves. In comparison to some of the modern and contemporary designers best known for tuxedo jackets, such as Yves Saint Laurent and Tom Ford, we think this coat has superior construction to last another century if better protected from moths by the buyer. The wrinkles on the satin lining of the tails should disappear when steamed. We do not recommend dry cleaning while there currently is no stain or odor. This was acquired by its contemporary collector over 30 years ago from a former London antique-textile boutique.
  • Dimensions:
    Marked Size: 6 (US)
  • Style:
    Art Deco (Of the Period)
  • Place of Origin:
  • Period:
  • Condition:
    Wear consistent with age and use. This antique tux tailcoat is in relatively good condition. The only hard-to-see damage is from moths, which is partly masked by the sleeve buttons, while a dark hole on the back left collar can be concealed if desired by long hair or a scarf.
  • Seller Location:
    Chicago, IL
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU3244220660922
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