Maison Martin Margiela Pre-Fall 2011 Black goat hair gilet
About the Item
- Designer:
- Brand:
- Dimensions:Marked Size: 42 (EU)
- Style:2011 (Of the Period)
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use.
- Seller Location:Milano, IT
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU3592222548442
Maison Martin Margiela
Belgian designer Martin Margiela (b. 1957) — whose life, career, clothing designs and vintage shoes have become cult-collector obsessions — pushed those who attended his shows outside their comfort zones. In the years following his maison's 1988 debut, he toyed with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today.
Consider the Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels, or his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies, from his Fall/Winter 1997 line. Or his oversize collection for Fall/Winter 2000. In 1992, Margiela told Dépêche Mode magazine, “My clothes appeal to women of a certain mindset rather than of a specific age or physique.”
Born in Genk, Belgium, in 1957, Margiela knew he wanted to be a fashion designer after catching glimpses of Parisian fashion on TV as a child. Although his parents discouraged this career choice as an oddly funny aspiration, Margiela enrolled in the fashion program of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. There, he befriended and graduated a year ahead of the Antwerp Six — the acclaimed group of Belgian fashion designers comprising Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk Van Saene.
Like many of his contemporaries in the 1980s, Margiela understood Paris fashion but felt a deep resonance with the deconstructed beauty espoused by Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garçons. Margiela’s fascination with Japan influenced many of his earliest collections and designs, from a dress pieced together from broken plates to his iconic Tabi boots, inspired by the split-toe Japanese worker’s shoe, which dates back to the 15th century. He decided to launch his own line while working for renowned Paris designer Jean Paul Gaultier.
Margiela, Gaultier has often stated, was his best assistant. Even then, the 2019 film Martin Margiela: In His Own Words suggests, he was acutely aware of the widening gulf between the art and the business of fashion.
Margiela’s debut show was nothing short of spectacular. Set in a packed Café de la Gare in the still-seedy Marais district, it was also scandalous to the Parisian fashion set of the time. The designer tore up the conventions of contemporary couture presentations, most notably having his models, plucked from the streets and wearing ink-blotted Tabis, wend their way through the crowd. The show redefined the concept of the runway in a way that would later inspire such designers as Alexander McQueen and Demna Gvasalia.
While the notoriously private designer retired from fashion in 2009, for many Maison Martin Margiela collectors, his pieces capture the irreverence of the postwar, post-punk late 1980s and ’90s. Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of the cult vintage fashion shop Resurrection, is among those who felt a connection to Margiela’s clothing in the subliminal challenges it posed to the time’s beauty norms.
“Growing up in San Francisco and coming out of the end of punk rock, not wanting to be objectified, not wanting to be seen as a sexual object, not wanting your value to be just because you’re pretty — all those clothes played into all of that,” she says. “It really was a reflection of the kind of world the young people I knew at the time wanted to live in.”
Find vintage Maison Martin Margiela boots, evening dresses, jackets and more on 1stDibs.
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: Milano, Italy
- Return PolicyA return for this item may be initiated within 3 days of delivery.
- Roberto Cavalli F/W 2010 Black sheepskin stud coatBy Roberto CavalliLocated in Milano, IT- Fall Winter 2010 - Sold by Skof.Archive - Black mid-rise sheepskin leather jacket - Fur collar - Gold Plated Stud details - Leather belt - ...Category
2010s Italian Coats
- Jean Paul Gaultier F/W 1996 Multicolor mohair zipper coatBy Jean Paul GaultierLocated in Milano, ITBlack, red and lime mohair/wool zipper panels and red "hood" - Mid-calf length and raw edges - Sold by Skof.Archive - Fall-Winter 1996/97 - Long wide sleeves - An asymmetric hem - M...Category
1990s Italian Coats and Outerwear
- Yoshi Yamamoto Black cotton asymmetric cape, ss 2009By Yohji YamamotoLocated in Milano, IT- Runway look 29 - Sold by Sof.Archive - Black soft drape - Large collar - Above knee-length - Spring Summer 2009 - Made in Japan Size : FR 3...Category
Early 2000s Japanese Manteaus
- Roberto Cavalli F/W 2000 Beige croc-embossed leather jacketBy Roberto CavalliLocated in Milano, IT- Roberto Cavalli beige croc-embossed leather jacket - Sold by Skof.Archive - Fitted to the body - Frontal button closure - Fall-Winter 2000 - Made in Italy Condition: Excellent ...Category
Early 2000s Italian Coats and Outerwear
- Prada F/W 2011 Liliac faux fur jacketBy Prada, Miuccia PradaLocated in Milano, IT- Designed by Miuccia Prada - Sold by Skof.Archive - Fall Winter 2011 - Liliac faux fur jacket - Faux fur front, wool back - Collarless - Large liliac buttons - Concealed snap clo...Category
2010s Italian Coats and Outerwear
- Thierry Mugler Couture F/W 2001 Grey silver cheetah silk jacketBy Thierry Mugler CoutureLocated in Milano, IT- Thierry Mugler Couture grey silk cheetah jacket - Sold by Skof.Archive - Shoulder pads - Hidden snap closure along the front - Fitted to the body -...Category
Early 2000s French Blazers
- Art Deco 7 Ft. Black Silk Manila Piano Shawl With White Floral EmbroideryLocated in New York, NYArt Deco black silk piano shawl hand embroidered with white silk floral design and 12" hand knotted silk fringe. The shawl is visually beautiful, soft...Category
Early 20th Century Philippine Shawls
- Mariano Fortuny Burgundy Stencilled Crepe CoatBy FortunyLocated in Riverdale, NYFortuny translated the caftan as a loose fitting outer garment, usually made out of silk velvet crepe or gauze the fitted back and open front allowed for elaborate stenciled decorati...Category
Early 20th Century Italian Art Deco Coats
- Mariano Fortuny Black Stencilled Velvet Long CoatBy FortunyLocated in Riverdale, NYFortuny's coats often take their inspiration from a myrid of references,renaissance,persian,arabic .These are often elaborately decorated in historical motifs surprisingly unrelated...Category
Early 20th Century Italian Art Deco Coats
- Mariano Fortuny Pink Coral Stencilled Velvet Long CoatBy FortunyLocated in Riverdale, NYFortunys coats take their inspiration from a myrid of references,renaissance ,persian,arabic .These are often elaborately decorated in historical motifs...Category
Early 20th Century Italian Art Deco Coats
- Mariano Fortuny Gauze Sleevless Coat, Provenance Tina ChowBy FortunyLocated in Riverdale, NYTransparent Fortuny gauze pieces are based on the ancient tunic which was a shirt like garment that became traditional attire in roman times, the copts or christian egyptians...Category
Early 20th Century Italian Art Deco Coats
- Mariano Fortuny Black Gauze Stencilled Short CoatBy FortunyLocated in Riverdale, NYFortuny translated the caftan as a loose fitting outer garment, usually made out of silk velvet crepe or gauze the fitted back and open front allowed for elaborate stenciled decorati...Category
Early 20th Century Italian Art Deco Coats