A French Early Regency White Embroidered Day Dress – Circa 1815-1820

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A French Early Regency White Embroidered Day Dress – Circa 1815-1820

About the Item

Circa 1815/1820. France Day dress in white embroidery or Broderie Anglaise in cotton chiffon openwork of a semis of embroidered circles revealing the color of the underdress ( not included in the sale). Curved bodice with high waist and pleated back at the waist. Rounded neckline and tightened by a cotton piping tied in the back. Small balloon sleeves adorned with small leg of white cotton gauze sleeves and small buttons in white embroidery on the cuffs. Pleated and volume-stitched skirt plunging back and adorned with three strips of cream satin piping. Dress clean, without undergarment, and in excellent condition of color and preservation. Exhibited In Villa Rosemaine in 2020. Measurement: Equivalent French size 34. Shoulders 27 cm, height 137 cm, size 56 cm, sleeves 68 cm. From the Restoration, the feminine silhouette begins a smooth transition: the neoclassical line submits to a certain mannerism, stiffens. The hegemonic reign of white ends, the palette opens to flowery colors. The hem shortens, is weighted with broths, hives or flying, repeated in the bodice «forming corset». Back to the whale body? The engravings of the Journal des dames et des modes confirm this as early as 1813… Until then brought under the chest, the waist regains its natural location when Charles X arrives on the throne in 1824. The Restoration stage a lively living room life and women are at the centre of this cultural effervescence. The theatre scene became a major influence for fashion, where seamstresses drew their inspiration, reproducing, for example, the double sleeves of tulle that Queen Elizabeth I of England loved… Is not his cousin and rival, Marie Stuart, the muse of the Duchess of Berry? Very sensitive to fashion, the daughter-in-law of Charles X displays indeed a fashion fantasy to the measure of his historical passions: this aerial transparency that ennobles a handle still balloon in the 1820s, will remain fashionable during the decade. Consulate, First Empire, new monarchy… political regimes follow one another, fashion variations too. White embroidery, however, enjoys an uninterrupted vogue. At the turn of the 19th century, the Marvels were already damned for the finely embroidered chiffon «in white» of Calcutta. Dubbed “Scottish flowering” in Ayrshire County, exported throughout Europe and America under the name of “English” embroidery, white saupoudre embroidery – on a batiste, chiffon background – floral motifs, plumetis, festoons with, Perforated round carnations with embroidered contours. English embroidery. The stamp of fresh and discreet elegance that passes the times not without charm… Guénolée Milleret

Dimensions:
Marked Size: Equivalent French size 34 (NA)
Style:
1815/1820 (Of the Period)
Place of Origin:
France
Period:
1810-1819
Condition:
Wear consistent with age and use. Excellent Condition and Color.
Seller Location:
Toulon, FR
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU633311867042