Hermes Vintage Tan Leather and Horsehair Crinoline shoulder bag, 1981
View Similar Items
Hermes Vintage Tan Leather and Horsehair Crinoline shoulder bag, 1981
About the Item
- Designer:
- Brand:
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use.
- Seller Location:West Palm Beach, FL
- Reference Number:Seller: EH1stDibs: LU2844063693
Hermès
For Hermès, what began as a maker of leather equestrian goods for European noblemen would eventually grow into one of the most storied fashion labels in the world. In 1837, German-born French entrepreneur Thierry Hermès opened a saddle and harness purveyor in Paris. Gradually, the house extended into accessories and luggage for its riders, and today, in paying homage to its origins, the family-run luxury brand resurfaces horse motifs in everything from clothing and modernist jewelry to pillows and handbags.
The first top-handled bag ever produced by Hermès was the Haut à courroies, which made its debut in 1892. A tall bag secured with a folded leather flap (fastened with bridle-inspired straps), it was designed to transport riding boots and a harness.
As the world made the switch from horse to automobile, the bag adapted, becoming a multifunctional travel satchel instead of a designated saddlebag. Today, 120 years later, the HAC remains in Hermès’s line — and its distinctive flap and clasping straps have laid the groundwork for some of the house’s other iconic bags.
In the 1930s, Robert Dumas (son-in-law to Émile-Maurice Hermès, Thierry’s grandson) designed a smaller, trapezoidal take on the flap bag with a handle and two side straps. Later, actress Grace Kelly, then engaged to Prince Rainier of Monaco, is said to have used one of these bags to conceal her pregnancy during the 1950s. Because she was photographed constantly, the coverage catapulted her handbag to international popularity.
In 1977, Hermès officially renamed the model for her, and the Kelly bag was born. Each Kelly bag takes between 18 and 25 hours to produce, and its 680 hand stitches owe solely to one Hermès artisan.
Robert Dumas was also responsible for another one of the brand’s most iconic offerings: the launch of its first silk scarf on the occasion of Hermès’s 100th anniversary in 1937. Based on a woodblock designed by Dumas and printed on Chinese silk, the accessory was an immediate hit.
Today, vintage Hermès scarves, typically adorned in rich colors and elaborate patterns, serve many functions, just as they did back then. Well-heeled women wear it on their heads, around their necks and, in a genius piece of cross-promotion, tied to the straps of their Hermès bags. Kelly even once used one as a sling for her broken arm.
In 1981, Robert Dumas’s son Jean-Louis Dumas, then Hermès chairman, found himself sitting next to French actress and musician Jane Birkin on a plane, where she was complaining about finding a suitable carryall for the necessary accoutrements of motherhood. After the two travelers were properly introduced, Birkin helped design Jean-Louis’s most famous contribution to the Hermès canon: the Birkin bag, a roomy, square catchall with the HAC’s trademark leather flap top and the addition of a lock and key.
Owing to the brand’s legendary commitment to deft, handcrafted construction, the Birkin is an investment that is coveted by collectors everywhere.
While the Kelly and Birkin may be standouts, gracing the arms of everyone from royal heiresses to hip-hop stars in the past few decades, the handbags are but a small part of Hermès’s fashion offerings.
Since the 1920s, the brand has produced some of the most desirable leather goods in the world. There’s the Constance bag, a favorite of Jacqueline Kennedy, the recently relaunched 1970s-era Evelyne and, on the vintage market, a slew of designs dating back to the 1920s.
Good design never goes out of style. Find a variety of vintage Hermès handbags, day dresses, shoes and more on 1stDibs.
- Vintage Baccarat Eclipse pink metallic leather with crystal shoulder bag NIBBy BaccaratLocated in West Palm Beach, FLVintage Baccarat Eclipse pale pink metallic leather with crystal shoulder bag...New in the box...This bag can be worn as a shoulder bag or carried as a clutch...Multi strand metallic...Category
Late 20th Century French Shoulder Bags
- Schitz Paris Rare Black Crocodile Handbag with Gold Hardware 1953.Located in West Palm Beach, FLSchitz, Paris rare black crocodile frame handbag with gold hardware from 1953. Schitz was a leather goods shop in Paris retailing luggage, handba...Category
1950s French Top Handle Bags
- Gucci Vintage Gucci 1970s Burgundy Monogram Canvas & Leather shoulder BagBy GucciLocated in West Palm Beach, FLVintage Gucci 1970s burgundy monogram canvas & leather shoulder bag. This early and rare bag has wide leather trimming along the zipper at the top, outlining each side like a frame for the canvas, there is a wide leather band at the bottom center. There are leather corner guards at the bottom front corners. The shoulder strap is adjustable with gold buckles at either side, the center of the shoulder strap has an oval of leather backed in suede to grip your shoulder. Gold Gucci...Category
1970s Italian Shoulder Bags
- Swarovski Crystal Encrusted Mamma Cat & Kitten Evening Handbag Shoulder bagBy Finesse La ModelLocated in West Palm Beach, FLSwarovski crystal rhinestone encrusted mamma cat & kitten evening handbag, shoulder bag. Beautiful jeweled evening bag covered in crystal, gold and...Category
1990s Italian Evening Bags and Minaudières
- R & Y Augousti Paris Large Brown Snakeskin Shoulder Bag with Silver StudsBy R & Y AugoustiLocated in West Palm Beach, FLR & Y Augousti Paris large brown snakeskin shoulder bag with silver studs. Soft skin bag has a leather lined shoulder strap that is incorporated in the bags design. The bag is large ...Category
21st Century and Contemporary French Hobo Bags
- Bruno Magli Grey Suede & Leather Flap Front Cross Body or Clutch HandbagBy Bruno MagliLocated in West Palm Beach, FLBurno Magli grey suede & leather flap front cross body or clutch handbag. This structured bag has a lot of style, the flap front has an applique of silver metal bars with insets of g...Category
1990s Italian Clutches
- Gucci Guccissima Gray Leather Indy Top Handle Crossbody Strap BagBy GucciLocated in Fort Lauderdale, FLThe ultimate in handbag making luxury craftsmanship. The Iconic House of Gucci always provides us with timeless and classic pieces. The edgy bag takes timeless creation to a new level of sophistication and charm. Made from the finest materials that you would expect from the Gucci House. A classic Guccissima bag...Category
2010s Italian Shoulder Bags
- 1990s Chanel vintage beige nude linen quilted kelly top handle shoulder bagBy ChanelLocated in Miami, FLCirca 1999 with original tags attached. Never used. 24k gold plated hardware Flat bottom opens to a large interior zipper closure. Lambskin interior lining. exterior large back poc...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Structured Shoulder Bags
- Chanel Limited Edition XL Maxi Organic Tweed Woven Summer Vacation Shoulder BagBy ChanelLocated in Miami, FLChanel Limited Edition XL Maxi Organic Tweed Woven Summer Vacation Shoulder Bag 2009 Brushed gold hardware Large CC logo Magnetic clasp closure Interior beige canvas lining Interio...Category
Early 2000s Italian Structured Shoulder Bags
- Chanel Beige Boy Flap Bag Quilted Calfskin MediumBy ChanelLocated in Palm Beach, FLChanel Beige Boy Flap Bag Quilted Calfskin Medium. This 2013-2014 version has a leather and chain-link shoulder strap with an adjustable buckle, a pus...Category
2010s Italian Structured Shoulder Bags
- Chanel 2012 Classic Flap Jumbo Beige & Black Raffia Organic Straw Canvas BagBy ChanelLocated in Miami, FLChanel large sized jumbo raffia black canvas flap with mademoiselle clasp closure and interwoven patent chain Year: 2012 Silver hardware Mademoiselle turn-lock closure at front Clas...Category
2010s French Structured Shoulder Bags
- Chanel Vintage 90's Tweed Beige Classic Reissue Tote BagBy ChanelLocated in Miami, FLChanel Vintage Tweed Beige Classic Reissue Tote Bag W 10.63 inch, H 7.87 inch, D 3.15 inch Year 1994 Made in FranceCategory
1990s French Structured Shoulder Bags
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
The Hermès Passe-Guide Bag Might Not Be as Well Known as the Birkin or Kelly, But It’s Every Bit as Chic
Find out why this under-the-radar piece is so exceptional.
How to Spot a Fake Hermès Birkin Bag
The iconic Birkin bag is much coveted — and often copied. Find out how to tell the real deal from a convincing fake. Of course, you don't have to worry about this on 1stDibs, where every seller is highly vetted.