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Black Tahitian Pearl Dutch DroogDesign 1998 Unique ThirdNipple GoldDisk Brooch
About the Item
In the 1990s when the Dutch collective Droog introduced international leaders of late 20th-Century functional art such as Ron Arad, Marcel Wanders, Jurgen Bey, Hella Jongerius, and Tejo Remy, the Netherlands-based brand was one of the most successful producers of conceptual design. The collaboration was co-founded in 1993 in Amsterdam by the jewelry and product designer Gijs Bakker (b. 1942), who commissioned his protege French artist Frederic Braham in 1998 to create this one-of-a-kind brooch for his young Droog-represented jewelry line "Chi ha paura...?". The Italian phrase means "who is afraid of?".
This natural satin-lustre South Sea black-Tahitian 15 x 10 mm baroque thick-nacred pearl, which is bezel-set in oxidized sterling on a sharp silver stud for push-back fastening as a lapel or tie pin, is surrounded by a removable textured gold disk brooch with the Chiapaura maker's mark, artist's signature, abbreviated year and assay symbol. Notably, while farmed pearls from this French-Polynesian region are scarce, it is rarer to find one over 12mm. This dark gray one is also exceptional for its desirable secondary tone of peacock green with minimal surface imperfections.
From normal use, the unseen back of the disk is missing chips of ecru enamel where it contacts the fastening knob. This reveals that the disk is solid gold.
Like other functional conceptual design represented by Droog, the brooch is more than a beautiful piece of fine jewelry featuring multiple contrasting elements, as it could be a provocative "third nipple" if worn on a tie or scarf. Given the Dutch origin of the brand, we recall the famous 15th-Century oil-painting by Johannes Vermeer, known as "Girl with a Pearl Earring". Who is afraid of girl or boy with a third nipple?
We acquired this brooch from a jewelry collector who had purchased it from the Italian gallery owned by Marijke Vallanzanca, with whom Bakker launched the Chihapaura platform. While the former successful line was produced by the duo, Chihapaura-commissioned works were internationally exhibited at art fairs and institutions, such as the San Francisco Craft + Design Museum that mounted a retrospective dedicated to Bakker's art direction at Droog from 1993-2009. For more information about Bakker's influence on Droog and his jewelry-design students like Braham, we recommend the retrospective monograph, Gijs Bakker and Jewelry.
- Creator:
- Metal:Gold,Silver,Mixed Metal,Sterling Silver
- Stone:Black Pearl,South Sea Pearl
- Stone Cut:Uncut
- Dimensions:Depth: 0.79 in (20 mm)Diameter: 1.11 in (28 mm)
- Style:Artist
- Place of Origin:Netherlands
- Period:1990-1999
- Date of Manufacture:1998
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use. Minor losses.
- Seller Location:Chicago, IL
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU3244219211222
About the Seller
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- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: North Adams, MA
- Return PolicyA return for this item may be initiated within 1 day of delivery.
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