Ella Gafter Diamond Flower Tree Brooch

About the Item

The flower diamond brooch features five leaves or petals around a large and lustrous South Sea pearl. The leaves and stem are each accented by a ribbon of custom cut baguette shaped precious stones of fiery color: Emerald (3.40 carats), ruby (3.57 carats), blue sapphire (1.50 carats), yellow sapphire (1.55 carats). The design is complete with approximately 8 carats of top quality diamonds (F/G-VVS). The South Sea pearl is untreated: its natural color and luster have not been enhanced in any way. The brooch was entirely hand made with sophisticated know how in our own workshop in Naples by maestro Scalabri, according to a charming, original design by Ella Gafter. The item is signed EG. Please note the pearl is set en tremblant, a complicated technique very seldom used today.

Creator:
Ella Gafter
Metal:
Yellow Gold,18k Gold,White Gold
Stone:
Pearl,South Sea Pearl,Diamond,White Diamond,Emerald,Ruby,Sapphire,Blue Sapphire,Yellow Sapphire
Stone Cut:
Round Cut
Dimensions:
Width: 2.5 in (63.5 mm)Length: 4 in (101.6 mm)
Style:
Artist
Place of Origin:
Italy
Period:
21st Century
Date of Manufacture:
Unknown
Condition:
Seller Location:
New York, NY
Reference Number:
Seller: 7551stDibs: LU802310121202
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Shop All Ella Gafter

Ella Gafter

Even before Ella Gafter founded her namesake jewelry collection in 1982, she was a formidable presence in the jewelry industry.

As a Rome-based gem dealer, Gafter sold pearls and precious stones to retailers and jewelers but was often dissatisfied with how they made use of the rare materials she worked so hard to source. Instead of grousing, she decided to design jewels that would do them justice, focusing primarily on pearls — akoya, Tahitian and South Sea. She explains her fascination with the lustrous marine treasures simply: “Every woman looks better with pearls than without.”

Her daughter Talila Gafter, then an undergrad at Harvard, was her ally in getting the project off the ground. Together, they made the rounds to stores with Ella’s first efforts. “We had a little pouch with eight pieces and we sold everything,” Talila tells 1stDibs. After graduation, she “was involved one hundred percent” in building the company, whose pieces are handmade by master jewelers in Naples.

The designer insists that her unwavering focus is the source of her success. “There’s no compromising for me,” she says. She’s been known to replace the pearls in a single piece time after time until she’s certain she’s achieved her ideal result. “A pearl you have to respect,” she explains. “You have to put it where it wants to sit.”

Ella describes the collaboration with her daughter as a “partnership,” with each having her own domain. “I’m all fantasy; Talila is the concrete one,” she says. The company is now based in New York City, with Talila as its president while Ella is firmly at the helm of creative decisions. “I’ve never made a design suggestion to Ella,” says Talila. “Nobody does.”

That forbearance has been earned, says Talila. “I admire that Ella doesn’t take no for an answer, her tenacity, her extraordinary ambition. She believes as long as there is life, there is a lot of beauty to create. She’s a force of nature.”

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