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MiriamHaskell c1929 FrankHess Rare FurClips GoldGiltBrass 3ChainFloraBow Lariat

About the Item

As one of Miriam Haskell's earliest fur clips from the late 1920s, these two Russian-gold gilt mostly brass brooches by her first designer Frank Hess are tethered as a lariat by three long chains, which is similar to a relatively simple all-metal lariat collected by Miriam Haskell Jewelry co-author Cathy Gordon. With slightly different three-dimensional brooch designs, the asymmetrical lariat features metal leaves and layered flowers with prong-set red pressed-glass rose-montee centers attached to frames, while the larger 2.75-inch-tall brooch includes a bow at the top. Notably, Gordon also published an atypical all-metal brooch with similar leaves and petal-base that was from Haskell's personal collection. The back of each fur clip has a notch that is present in multiple published lariats by Haskell. Combined with the Czech or German pressed glass, which Haskell used during the Great Depression instead of custom-made Parisian lampwork beads that were made by parurier Louis Rousselet, the lariat seems to have been made around 1929 when she also began to source American metal findings. The earliest jewelry that included a Haskell signature was made from 1947-1949 (see our other listing for fleur-de-lys all-metal earrings with impressed signatures). Notably, Haskell had launched her business in 1926 as a French-named boutique, Le Bijou de L'Heure, based on the growing American high-end market for Parisian couture ensembles that included also-unsigned costume jewelry. Given the recognizable French handcrafted materials in one-of-a-kind jewelry commissioned by Gabriel "Coco" Chanel, Haskell tapped the same Parisian workshops for imported beads and findings to uniquely assemble Parisian-style ready-to-wear jewelry in New York. The nearly century-old lariat has minor gilt loss and the tops of the four crystals are worn around the edges. Otherwise, it is in good condition. While Haskell-Hess are among our favorite costume-jewelry makers, we enjoy finding pieces that were made before Haskell sold her company to her brother in 1950 due to increasing mental health issues, although Hess continued as head designer for the company for another decade. As there are many comparisons to make between Haskell and Chanel--both as trail-blazing 20th-Century businesswomen, and for their use of the finest materials and craftsmanship for handmade costume jewelry--properly identified unsigned Haskell jewelry is still a relative bargain.
  • Creator:
  • Metal:
    Yellow Gold,Brass,Gilt Metal
  • Weight:
    99 g
  • Dimensions:
    Width: 11.5 in (292.1 mm)Length: 6.5 in (165.1 mm)
  • Sold As:
    Set of 2
  • Style:
    Baroque Revival
  • Place of Origin:
    United States
  • Period:
    1930-1939
  • Date of Manufacture:
    1930s
  • Condition:
    Wear consistent with age and use.
  • Seller Location:
    Chicago, IL
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU3244220707192
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