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MiriamHaskell 1930s Hess GlassFauxPearl ClusterCascade FrenchClip DangleEarrings

About the Item

Miriam Haskell's first designer since 1926 Frank Hess created in a Baroque style these handcrafted cluster-cascade-dangle earrings that feature coated-glass ecru round faux-pearls whose yellow Russian-gilt brass findings are mixed with 24 karat gold. They fasten with French hinged clips without a filigree plate nor signature, which together indicate that these Haskell-Hess earrings were made before 1945. Further, since Haskell did not import supplies nor finish metal findings in her signature gilt style during the war years between 1939-1944, these earrings were most likely made in the late 1930s when Parisian Louis Rousselet, a parurier whose glass-specialized workshop also catered to French couturiers such as Gabriel "Coco" Chanel, was still the source of Haskell's finest glass beads and decorative metals. Notably, Haskell opened her initial ready-to-wear costume-jewelry boutique in a NYC hotel under the French name, Le Bijou de l'Heure, to emphasize her use of Parisian materials, which were otherwise at the time recognizable in couture pieces worn by widely-publicized international celebrities and the wealthy. With en-tremblant construction and in the shape of a grape bunch that are elements often seen in early Hess designs, one or more faux-pearl bead is wired with a pin to each link of the chain, while a single round bead is prong set at the ear. No Haskell jewelry was signed before 1947.
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