Golden South Sea Pearl Necklace

Thirty-one luminous and golden baroque South Sea pearls compose a new and unworn 17" necklace of supreme beauty and luxury. The gleaming, sumptuous pearls range in size from approx...

This 16" strand of vintage cultured Akoya pearls features large and luminous pearls. 8.31mm, 8.24mm, 8.19mm, 8.04mm, 8.29mm, 8.43mm, 8.51mm: these are measurements I took of the pearls at random. In the world of cultured Akoya pearls, 8mm is the delineating mark; 8mm and larger are considered "luxury" pearls because of the time and risk involved in culturing pearls this large. The longer a pearl stays in the water, the thicker the nacre but the greater the chances for malformation. With this strand, we have the ideal: uniform, round pearls with thick nacre, and gorgeous luminosity, but without the pits and surface imperfections, we often see in pearls of this size and vintage. The vast majority of Akoya pearls are 6mm and 7mm. All of these pearls are 8mm and well beyond. If the classic 16" length feels too short for you, it's easy for your jeweler to add a bit of length by having the pearls restrung with double knots and French wire. In this way, you can transform this into a 17" necklace. This necklace, created in the 1950s, features two strands of 75 top-quality cultured Akoya pearls in a near-ivory tone without any evidence of pinking, the dying process the vast majority of cultured Akoya pearls undergo to give them a light pink blush. These pearls lack that artificial tint. The clasp is measures 23mm x 19.47 and was hand-fabricated. The clasp is formed into the shape of a flower with six small, full-cut diamonds prong-set in the center Interestingly, the diamonds are of far better quality than such small stones on a necklace clasp need to be. They are near-colorless (G-I) and clean (VS2). Together they weigh .25 carats. The clasp is unmarked but tests as 14K. This is the ultimate classic double-strand cultured Akoya necklace...

The luminous untreated jadeite jade beads that compose this 20" necklace are so faintly light green, that they appear white. Well, but not white; not really, because they are far too fascinating to be merely white like a piece of paper or a sheet. It is as if an apparition has assumed bead form and settled around the neck. These gorgeous, succulent beads seem filled with a reserve of light they have gathered during the day in order to release back into the night like a whisper. If you like pearls but wish for something denser, more grounded in the material world, these may be for you. They do look like pearls from a distance, a pristine strand of vintage cultured Akoya pearls. But then, up close, what are they? White sapphires? What could they be? Most people, of course, have no idea jade is anything other than green. The individual beads measure approximately 8.5mm for a clean, unified presentation around the neck. I am a second-generation collector of jade and have loved Gump's jade jewelry all my life. Gump's was an iconic San Francisco department store that was founded in the 19th century and awed the world with their remarkable and unique pieces until 2005 when they were sold. Gump's never used any dyed or treated jade in any of their jewelry, so they remain one of very few brands that you never need to have tested; vintage Gump...

This is rare Gump's nephrite jade necklace from the Midcentury (circa 1960s) in an exceptionally translucent light chartreuse green. Indeed, the hand-carved and polished beads are so highly translucent they look to be made of glass. In fact, "Glassy" jade is a term usually reserved to describe only the finest jadeite jade -nephrite jade's rarer and more expensive cousin- and the word is only rarely applicable to the nephrite variety of jade, due to its different mineral structure. The 16 ¾" necklace is composed of 40 9.30mm untreated nephrite beads that are most likely from Siberia. These beads are a fine, evenly-toned chartreuse green, and they display the high translucency of the only finest jadeite. Most Gump's jade necklaces were available in 18" and 24" lengths. This 16" necklace is far less common, and the large size of the beads in combination with the brief length speaks to the scarcity of the beads themselves, their genuine preciousness. The 14K yellow gold clasp is marked "Hong Kong" and "Gump's." All original Gump's jade jewelry...

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