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MiriamHaskell 1945 PeacockBeads Parure WiredBraceletEarrings 16StrandNecklace
About the Item
Before 1947 when the brand mark was added and while couture-style adjustable-hook necklaces were in demand in post-war America, Miriam Haskell's first designer Frank Hess created this peacock-colors parure with hallmark Russian-gold gilt-brass filigree, along with a characteristic variety of beads that include glass, faceted crystal, decorative metal, and faux pearls. The set of four pieces includes a triple-wire bypass cuff bracelet and matching clip earrings, plus a lush 16-strand bib choker necklace--all with gilt-wire-wrapped strands, whose askew squared edges resemble cannetille for sparkly golden texture.
Notably on the bracelet and 1.25-inch-diameter earrings, the swirled circular decorations are each invisibly wired together and neatly attached to a gilt-filigree plate by twisted brass wires that align with or are concealed by other pieces of hardware, such as the circa-1945 riveted clips found in museum-exhibited Haskell pieces (see our other listing for 1945 white climber earrings with matching clips). This predates by a couple years the adoption of the post-war Haskell hallmarks that include a round gilt-filigree back plate that completely conceals wiring for attachment of a brand-signed element, such as a name plate or different style of clip (see our Haskell listing for first-signature 1947-1949 fleur-de-lys earrings).
The multi-strand necklace features additional distinct textural gilt-metal decorations, including stamped openwork strand-anchors in an organic motif, four flower-petal filigree caps, and tiny round spacers. More so adorning each of the three purple-pearl strands, 34 tiny fruit-stem-like gilt caps bracket faceted mauve and teal crystals, which could be pre-war Haskell stock. Centered along the brass-wire linked strands with grey pearls, smaller grey ones and hundreds of favrile-style richly colored iridescent glass micro-beads separately align on the multiple substrands. The dimensions for the 2.5-inch-wide overlapping-bib necklace are in the Measurement Units section of this listing.
As the Haskell-Hess duo were often the first Americans to acquire foreign specialty materials preferred by European couture-houses or to emulate their techniques, it is no surprise that this necklace is evidence of early U.S. adoption of the adjustable necklace with an extension chain and unadorned hook, which was how paruriers of Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli frequently fastened their otherwise elaborate custom works. By the late 1940s, such simple necklace hooks used by Haskell included the brand signature, while her subsequent Japanese decorative-material suppliers also sold their own versions of her designs whose hooks were instead stamped "Japan".
As a variation of the classic wire-constructed bypass cuffs by Hess that date back to the late 1920s, the three-row beaded bracelet, whose wires are aligned by perforated gilt-brass plates on both sides, flexes to open and springs back. The bracelet diameter is 2.25 inches when on a tabletop. Notably, the same kind of colored minutely-faceted crystals on the bracelet that were made by Parisian Louis Rousselet's workshop can be found in another listing of ours for a pre-war-dated Haskell wire coil bracelet, which is also assembled in peacock colors.
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- Dimensions:Width: 2.5 in (63.5 mm)Depth: 1 in (25.4 mm)Diameter: 4.5 in (114.3 mm)Length: 16.5 in (419.1 mm)
- Sold As:Set of 4
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- Place of Origin:
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- Date of Manufacture:1945
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use.
- Seller Location:Chicago, IL
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU3244222450072
About the Seller
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Established in 2012
1stDibs seller since 2022
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Typical response time: 1 hour
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: North Adams, MA
- Return PolicyA return for this item may be initiated within 1 day of delivery.
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