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2.8ct Diamond Pendant in Platinum w South Sea Pearl Drop & 18K White Gold Chain

About the Item

Eytan Brandes made the ultimate one-of-a-kind statement pendant using a traditional ladies diamond brooch and a gorgeous white South Sea pearl. The standout feature of this pendant, besides the pearl, is the array of old cut diamonds. We carefully measured and assessed each to derive a (conservatively) estimated diamond weight of 2.87 carats. We can provide you with our OCD spreadsheet, but to summarize: Total number of diamonds: 17 Total estimated diamond weight: 2.87 carats Total number of old mine cuts (i.e., cushions): 4 Total number of old European cuts (i.e., rounds): 12 Total number of modern brilliant cuts: 1 (a later replacement*) Range of weights: 0.07 carats to 0.42 carats Range of colors: H to J (most stones are H-I) Range of clarities: VS2 to I2 (most stones are SI1-2) This brooch was made in the 1910s or 1920s (more about that below), when diamonds were hand-cut, so these stones show all of the charming imperfections and irregularities that make old cut diamonds so endearingly compelling. Both the old mine cut and the old European cut feature much smaller tables, higher crowns and bigger culets than the brilliant cut that phased out both of them beginning around 1930. You'll find all of these features in the diamonds on this brooch (except for one diamond, set at the bottom, nearest the pearl, which is a later replacement.*) The navette shape, millgrained edges, fine dye-struck platinum openwork, and pronounced symmetry of this brooch are all so utterly Edwardian you can practically smell Bertie's pipe smoke. However, pins like this were produced well into the 1940's, so we are relieved to have a couple of strong clues -- i.e., the diamond cuts and the pin's original reverse pull catch -- to help us date the production of this piece with some confidence after 1910 and before 1930. While anyone can string a chain through the pin hardware of a bar pin and call it a pendant, we decided to eliminate the pin option altogether and add a pearl drop -- our way of dragging this venerable old piece of traditional jewelry into the 21st century and sexing it up a bit! The pearl is truly gorgeous -- a graceful 13mm frosty white South Sea pearl from our trusted pearl dealer, George Hajjar of Seven Seas Pearls. Mr. Hajjar, with offices in Los Angeles and Tokyo, deals only in salt water pearls -- Akoyas, South Sea and Tahitian; no freshwater and nothing from China. He also deals directly with the pearl farmers, so there are no brokers or auction houses standing between him and the genuine article. We always know we're getting the real thing from Seven Seas, so you do too. This pearl has a strong silver overtone, wonderful luster, and just enough natural imperfections (consisting mostly of shallow, uncolored pits along the top and some very faint circles) to look at home with the 100-year old diamond knockout upstairs. The simple concealed bale is big enough to accommodate most chain hardware. This pendant looks fetching hanging on a silk ribbon or a round omega collar, but we're proud to include the chain shown in the photos. It's a beautifully made, solid and substantial Italian cable chain in 18 karat white gold. It's just a skoosh under 16" long, with 3mm textured (knurled) oval links and a lobster catch. It's removable, and you'll be glad it is because it's one of those how-did-I-live-without-this mainstays you'll want to wear with every pendant you own!** WEIGHTS & MEASUREMENTS: Pendant length: just under 3" Pendant length without the pearl: just under 2-1/4" Pendant width: just over 3/4" Chain length: 15-7/8" Chain thickness: 3mm Interior dimensions of bale: approx. 5.5mm x 4mm Pearl width: 13.1mm (15.9mm long) Pendant weight (including pearl): 11.6 grams Chain weight: 8.6 grams Total necklace weight: 20.2 grams We're very proud of this pendant, so please let us know if you have any questions. Note that an appraisal will be included for insurance purposes. * If you would like all of the stones to be old cuts, we can source a suitable old cut, but it will take extra time and could involve an additional fee. ** If you would like the pendant without the chain, or with a different type of chain, please let us know and we'll provide adjusted pricing and options.
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