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18th Century Italian Cluster Ring Probably c. 1720-60

About the Item

An unusual and gorgeous 18th century Italian cluster ring, probably c. 1720-60, the enormous paisley heart shaped ring face set with round turquoise in a triple layered cluster formation. Like most 18th century Italian rings. Mounted in 18kt yellow gold. Finger size 6 1/2 Weight: 5.63gr. A related heart-shaped ring with a figural mask is in the Koch collection (number 851), identified as 18th century Italian. An earlier prototype from late 17th century, similarly set with color-foiled gems in square rub-over settings, is in the Pepoli Regional Museum, Italy. The present ring’s large ring head is rather unusual for historic rings, but its design origin can be traced to the 17th century. A similarly large paisley heart ring can be seen in the 1620 portrait of Isabel de Borbón, Wife of Philip IV, by Rodrigo de Villandrando. Another 17th century heart-shaped cluster ring is in the Ashmolean Museum (number 162, plate 23, Finger Rings by Diana Scarisbrick and Martin Henig).
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