Marchak Paris Blue and Yellow Sapphire and Diamond Suite, circa 1960

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Marchak Paris Blue and Yellow Sapphire and Diamond Suite, circa 1960

About the Item

A pavé-set, oval- and circular-cut sapphire dome ring punctuated with contrasting yellow sapphires on the sides and top, accented with circular-cut diamonds; ear clips, en suite; mounted in 18-karat yellow gold and platinum, with French assay marks • 44 circular-cut diamonds • 164 oval- and circular-cut sapphires • 17 oval-, pear-, and circular-cut yellow sapphires • Each piece signed Marchak After World War II, Alexander Marchak hired Alexander Diringer, an innovative designer trained at Cartier and Sterlé. Making ingenious use of the limited materials available after the war, Diringer developed a bold style. Jacques Verger was also brought on as a salesman and soon bought the company. Like their predecessors, Verger and Diringer offered exclusive jewels that by the 1950s were strong in conception, featuring brightly colored contrasting gemstones and a slightly chaotic quality. This ring and earring suite is a notable example. Each piece is designed in a dome-shaped mounting and set with yellow and blue sapphires accented with diamonds. A yellow sapphire crowns the ring with four wedge-shaped yellow sapphires set into the sides. A row of blue sapphires demarcates the dome from the shank, which is made of smooth threaded bands of gold. The ear clips are designed with a central cluster of yellow sapphires surrounded by blue sapphires; diamonds are sprinkled among the sapphires. Subtle detailing, a mark of a superb jeweler, is seen in the varied setting of the stones; the sapphires are prong-set while the diamonds are collet-set. Dinners, social gatherings which had been de rigueur in the 1940s, were replaced in the 1950s by cocktail parties, a change that precipitated new designs in fashion as well as in jewelry. Large, bold rings were created that could be prominently displayed on hands holding beverages. This ring and earring suite is perfect for such an occasion. • Ring 1 1⁄2 x 1 1⁄4 x 1 1⁄8 inches; ear clips 7⁄8 x 1 1⁄4 x 1 1⁄4 inches

Creator:
Marchak
Metal:
18k Gold
Stone:
Diamond,Blue Sapphire,Yellow Sapphire
Stone Cut:
Oval Cut
Sold As:
Set of 2
Place of Origin:
France
Period:
1960-1969
Date of Manufacture:
1960
Condition:
Wear consistent with age and use. Some minor nicks and abrasions to the gemstones, though does not detract from the outstanding overall appearance.
Seller Location:
New York, NY
Reference Number:
Seller: F23281stDibs: LU2075211083682