Antique Gold Hair Work Locket Face Ring with Foliate Engraving, 1860

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Antique Gold Hair Work Locket Face Ring with Foliate Engraving, 1860

About the Item

Dating to 1860, this lovely Victorian hair work ring was likely once a sentimental or mourning brooch or pendant. At some point in the Victorian period it was converted into the lovely ring it is now. Crafted of gold testing between 10K and 14K, the ring features a large oval shaped locket containing beautiful table worked reddish-gold hair, along with gold wire detailing. The border of the locket is engraved with a foliate design, and the shoulders of the ring have a wonderful chased floral design that complements it perfectly. On the reverse of the locket are initials along with the date of May 12, 1860. Measuring approximately 7/8 of an inch x just over 5/8 of an inch, the glazed locket compartment is quite sizable, creating a striking and substantial ring. The band and engraved frame is testing around 10K gold for me, while the back of the locket is testing around 14K gold. (the locket is sealed) Very prettily displayed, the hair has a lovely color and a feminine feel. I suspect this was a ladies or girl's hair, with the ring being worn by a gentleman. The backing looks to be a white glass, and some hair seems to be twisted with the gold wire embellishments. That hair appears darker in color - so, I'm not sure if perhaps a loved one's hair was added, or if it appears darker from the way it was dressed with the wire. Overall, the hair is in very good original condition; the glazing also looks all original with only light wear mostly seen on the inside of the glazing. The engraved border has a lovely, crisp scrolling vine design that sets off the table worked hair really well. Including the border, the face of the ring measures just over 1 inch x approximately 13/16 of an inch. (26.13 x 21.2 mm) The initials "MDS" are hand engraved on the back of the locket, with "May 12, 1860" beneath. There is a little superficial wear to the back along with two areas that look like they might have been used for testing the gold, which could be polished if desired. A beautiful chased design of flowers and leaves adorn the tapering shoulders. Still quite crisp, the details are easy to see and enjoy and the addition of the band was done well. The shoulders are approximately 8.92 mm wide, with the band tapering down to approximatley 2.23 mm at its narrowest - the very back of the band, which also shows signs of having been sized. No hallmarks remain inside. I believe the ring is currently about a size 9.5 - 9.75 or so, though I can't get an accurate measurement on my mandrel due to the flat face of the ring. It could be carefully sized within reason by a good jeweler, with more gold added at the back to go up in size.

Ring Size:
9.5 US, Resizable
Metal:
Gold
Weight:
8.38 g
Style:
Victorian
Place of Origin:
United Kingdom
Period:
1860-1869
Date of Manufacture:
1860
Condition:
Additions or alterations made to the original: I believe this was likely originally a brooch, with the shank (band) added a bit later, though still in the Victorian period. The size of 9.5 US is estimated due to the ring not being easily sized on a mandrel. Wear consistent with age and use. Foliate engraving is in great condition, some light wear to glazing, signs of having been sized in the past with band rather oval in shape.
Seller Location:
Danvers, MA
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU3614219632292