Antique Stuart Rock Crystal Ring Gold Wire Cipher circa 1700 Georgian English

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Antique Stuart Rock Crystal Ring Gold Wire Cipher circa 1700 Georgian English

About the Item

An exquisite early 18th century Stuart rock crystal ring. Inlaid with a knotted gold wire cypher and flashes of berry-pink foil underneath, this ring is steeped with English history and is a remarkable example of Stuart period jewellery. The group of political jewellery known as ‘Stuart Crystals’ is named after the House of Stuart. It was first created in 1649, when King Charles I, the martyred King of England, was executed under Cromwell’s rule. People loyal to the Stuart monarchy (Royalists) opposed Charles I’s execution, believing that he was God’s chosen leader, and felt that his death was not justice, but murder. Many Royalists who wished to memorialise their lost King secretly wore Stuart rock crystal jewellery to show their sympathy and allegiance to the crown. Openly showing support would have been very dangerous, so these pieces were often worn in secret, on a ribbon, hidden from view under clothing. The first examples of these jewels incorporated locks of the ‘Martyr King's' hair (woven to look almost like a cloth), then later the jewels went on to either display his initials in gold wirework or a portrait miniature of the King himself, all set beneath a foiled rock crystal quartz panel. Later in the seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries, Stuart crystal jewellery was created to mourn the deaths (and celebrate coronations) of other monarchs of the Stuart House. These jewels remained in popularity until the monarchy was reinstated, and they were the precursor to mourning or memorial rings which became the rage in 18th century England. This example dates to around 1700, and is set with a beautiful circular rose-faceted rock crystal panel, containing an intricate knotted gold wire cypher placed upon on a plait of dark brown woven hair and cerise-pink foiling! The cypher is framed by a further coiled border of golden wire. Like many eighteenth century rings, the gem is foil-backed to capture all the surrounding light by day or candle at night. The rock quartz crystal rests in a rub over and closed back gold setting, which adjoins to an antique plain band. As visible from the back of the ring, it was re-shanked at a later date, the 18K band has hallmarks dating it to the Georgian era (London, 1821) but is a perfect match with the colour of the gold on the bezel. Both the bezel and band have a beautifully silky texture from all the years of wear. As this gem is foiled, it is to be worn with care and should not be submerged in water. UK ring size L 1/2, US ring size 6 2.36g, fully hallmarked, tests as 18K gold, bezel measures 10mm in diameter.

Ring Size:
6 US, Resizable
Metal:
Gold
Stone:
Rock Crystal
Stone Cut:
Round Cut
Weight:
2.36 g
Style:
Stuart
Place of Origin:
England
Period:
Early 18th Century
Date of Manufacture:
1700
Condition:
Additions or alterations made to the original: Conversion to ring - see main description. Wear consistent with age and use.
Seller Location:
London, GB
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU2845219623172