Important Sapphire Ring GIA Certified Unheated English Arts & Crafts

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Important Sapphire Ring GIA Certified Unheated English Arts & Crafts

About the Item

The Arts & Crafts period was a brief (1890-1914) though influential revolt against industrialization. It began in England and spread throughout academic and artistic channels. It was especially embraced in Boston, Massachusetts. The thesis was this: enough with the machines; we must make things with our souls and our hands. This astoundingly beautiful and rare Arts & Crafts period men's ring was most likely created in England at around the turn of the previous century. It is entirely hand-fabricated from 15K yellow gold and platinum and features elaborate and exceedingly well-done metalwork. The platinum face of the ring has been deeply carved with elongated leaves and what at first glance could be berries but are more probably olives, such as seen in William and May Morris's "Olive and Rose" pattern from this period. Applied to the shoulders of the ring in 15K gold are beautifully-rendered oak leaves and acorns. Oak leaves were a common motif in the Arts & Crafts period. As magnificent as the setting is, the astounding GIA-certified unheated sapphire is the real star here. Arts & Crafts period jewelry from England that is made from precious metals like platinum and gold along with prize gemstones like this sapphire were almost always commissioned pieces. The vast majority of Arts & Crafts jewelry was created using more humble materials, which makes this ring all the more remarkable. "Cornflower blue" must be among the most misemployed adjectives ever tossed at a sapphire. Sapphires come in practically every color you can imagine including several you can't. But the most popular color is blue. "Cornflower blue" gets its name from Centaurea cyanus —aka— the cornflower. I usually see rich blue sapphires the color of Kate Middleton's engagement ring being described as "cornflower blue" but that is incorrect. Her ring is "royal blue," while cornflower blue is the color of the sapphire you see in this ring. It's much lighter than royal blue; a distinctive medium-toned violet-blue. And it is arguably sapphire's most resplendent color. This almost 3.5-carat modified pear-cut Ceylon sapphire featured in this ring measures 10.30 mm x7.80 mm x5.76 mm. Being a "modified" pear means it's less strictly a pear form and more of an oval with a slight bulge on one end. It's a beautifully cut sapphire that, while not technically a "color-change" sapphire, does nonetheless sometimes throw a bit of pink at your eyes. It's a soulful old sapphire with mesmerizing beauty. The quality of fabrication, the choice of such a fine gem, the symmetry of the organic design elements reminds me a great deal of Louis Comfort Tiffany's startlingly fabulous jewels. While he may not have been the creator of this ring —a prior resize removed any maker's mark that may have existed— it is of that caliber. This spectacular ring is currently a size 11 and could be resized by your local jeweler. I have a special love for the Arts & Crafts and Art Nouveau periods and a ring like this is so extraordinarily rare that I have never seen one quite like it.

Metal:
15k Gold,Platinum
Stone:
Blue Sapphire
Weight:
18.89 g
Style:
Arts and Crafts
Lab Report Available:
GIA
Place of Origin:
United Kingdom
Period:
1890-1899
Date of Manufacture:
circa 1890-1910
Condition:
Wear consistent with age and use. Excellent antique condition with no signs or damage or repair. A previous resize (larger) removed hallmarks.
Seller Location:
Southbury, CT
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU158918290931