French 1880s Art Nouveau Gold Zigzag Enamel Star Pendant Lapel Pin Pocket Watch

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French 1880s Art Nouveau Gold Zigzag Enamel Star Pendant Lapel Pin Pocket Watch

About the Item

An Impressive French 1880s Double Sided Gold Special Order Gold Star Inlay “Zig Zag” Guilloche Enamel Breguet Dial & Case Art Nouveau Pendant Lapel Pocket Watch accompanied with its original matching Red enamel “Zig Zag” Engine turned Guilloche Enamel & Gold Inlaid Star motif Pin Basic Specifications & Case Dimensions - 80mm Length from top of pin to bottom of Pendant watch - 35mm pin width across x 15mm pin - Pendant watch is 30mm to bottom x 28mm across width - Recently Serviced & Perfect Working Condition Special Features include: -Double Enamel Zig Zag Sun Ray Enamel motif Dial style & Case is designed with Iconic “Zig Zag” Guilloche Enamel Motif matching & Radiating From center with hand cut gold inlaid stars set into the enameling -18kt Hand Cut Breguet Numbering System & 18kt Baton Outer Minute Markers on enamel dial -Sold as a pair with 18kt Gold Inlaid Hand Cut Star Motif set into the Red Enameling on exterior case & with its Matching Pin -Excellent Original Condition& Recently Serviced with a High Grade Nickel movement Catalog Note The present timepiece is a an extremely well-preserved example of one of the most iconic art forms of enameling combined with the periods highest quality gold workmanship in the 19th century design and executes beautifully the art of enameling in the mid 1800s in one of the most difficult colors to produce vibrant enamel in and zig zag pattern in red which required additional heating process specifically to create the larger more vibrant color variations as light reflects off the dial as well as the case. During this timeframe due to limited technology, the art of enameling was first introduced and became one of the most sought after works of art as it was extremely difficult to commission such pieces. During the 1800s there were many different efforts to execute various forms of enameling from cloisonné to engine turned guilloche as well as the acclaimed “zig zag” motif. Each required the master watchmaker to be a master enameller as well because not only did the timepiece movement need to become smaller to fit into a smaller case design concept as a pendant watch, but it also required extremely intense heating process with workmanship to be applied as a means to obtain higher color hues such as the present example demonstrates. First the watchmaker would have to engineer a smaller and thinner movement which could keep time accurately, but once completed the case required immense attention to detail in order to produce such vibrant hues of reds and then afterwards in particular with this example gold workmanship and attention to detail was required In order to set the gold stars into the enamel without damaging the enamel process as both styles had different heat limitations required to produce the present design. Additionally, in order to produce the present case, the watchmaker required a master goldsmith as well in order to carve out the areas where the stars would appear on the case and also the pin so that the enamel can be applied to create the pattern of zig zags and also allocate the space for the hand cut gold stars to be set. By performing such tasks, it would create the depths needed that once the enamel dried it would create the zig zag pattern as areas hardened leaving the stars slightlky higher but not effecting the enamel workmanship on either side as is present on the example offered here today. Once the enamel dries, the effect creates a case coloring that makes the enamel completely reactive to sunlight so that as its user alters positions in regular day light the case shines translucently in all different hues of the red enameling which is why enamel pendant watches specifically in this period are so sought after and examples which have matching enamel dials as well as gold inlay form shapes such as the present example with stars are considered one of the most premium designs of the period especially when executed in 18kt which during this frame was reserved for only the most premier orders as is the hand cut 18kt gold Breguet numerals so no attention to detail on the present design was left without prior planning make it a tier one example of the period as a result. The innovation elements were extremely difficult requiring even up to 3 or 4 different master watchmakers, enamellers, goldsmiths to be able to commission a piece such as the present example and would have required immense planning and time as well as additional cost to commission. Finally, in addition to the beautiful zig zag design concept present on the example here, the example continues to stand out as a premier example of this time frame over other examples of enamel watches of this kind because it is not only designed in 18kt yellow gold which suggests that it was also very likely for an important client as more common examples of this period were commonly found in 14kt or 9kt when mass produced, but also because the design concept continues to be specially designed with a matching “zig zag” motif enamel guilloche pattern on the dial and also the pin to match the outside case back with gold inlay stars as well as enameling which also had to be created specially within the same proportions and heat elelents and matched by the watchmaker and further more with additional the special attention to details on the present examples’ numbering system which is also designed entirely with hand cut gold numerals in Breguet numbering system style (typically the most desirable numbering system collectors seek out as it is considered more valuable because more artistic and iconically recognizable) and further accented with “fancy” hand cut 18kt gold hands to reveal the minute and hours with. During this timeframe into the late and mid 1800s, the French govt in particular would commission enamel works of art such as the present example specially to give as gifts to foreign dignitaries as well as the royal court. The present example is serial numbered and hallmarked and also has an extremely high-grade movement in perfect working condition. Additionally, notable it can be worn in many different styles whether dress or casual on a long chain as a pendant on a necklace or as a brooch with a pin that attaches it to a jacket lapel. Total museum piece in excellent condition. For any additional questions, please do not hesitate to ask or video

Metal:
Enamel
Dimensions:
Height: 3.15 in (80 mm)Width: 1.38 in (35 mm)
Style:
Art Nouveau
Place of Origin:
France
Period:
1880-1889
Date of Manufacture:
1880 - 1889
Condition:
Wear consistent with age and use.
Seller Location:
New york, NY
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU1212314629642