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1920's Eberhard Hermetic 15J, Sterling Silver, Trench Watch Totally Restored

About the Item

My shop was recently selected to supply vintage American watches for a premier movie starring some major actors and a world famous director. They were looking for authentic watches that would represent the time period from 1915-1926. It is a true story of events that took place during the 1920’s. I have been an avid vintage watch collector for years. My soft spot is 1900-1935 American watches. I have an active collection of about 60 pieces. I am constantly refining my collection as time ticks by. The ones that I do not wear very much get sold for other watches that may be hard to find. All my watches for sale are in above average condition, some are pristine. I pride myself in offering the best quality and reasonable prices. Remember, "Price is what you pay, value is what you get". What a rare watch to offer. This is a most extraordinary watch to find. I have a solid gold one for sale by Cyma, this offering is by the venerable watch house Eberhard, from the house of “Chaux-De-Fonds. Eberhard & Co. watches boast over a century of research and passion. Since 1887 the Swiss brand has been synonymous with excellence and innovation, which are represented in precious timepieces with high technical content that have marked important stages: the pocket chronograph, the first wrist chronograph, right up to dual time watches. Creations that stand out for their quality and style and that express the values of great Swiss tradition. One cannot avoid in the passion and quest of learning and understanding the beginning of the wristwatch to bypass the story of the hermetic timepieces. “Sealed” pieces were first patented by Francois Borgel in 1891, and the semi hermetic were patented by Charles Rothen, an employee of Francois Borgel’s daughter who took over after her father died. The “fully hermetic” was originally believed to have been first patented by Jean Finger in 1921, but later it was found that it was preceded by Gruen some four years earlier (applied 1918/granted 1919). The final Rolex Oyster patent was originally patented by Perregaux and Perret on October 30, 1925, and bought by Hans Wilsdorf for the launch of the now famous Rolex Oyster in 1926. My first fully hermetic timepiece and probably the most “exotic” watch in my collection even today is my Waltham Dive Watch This watch has been designed with swing lugs to help it fit the curvature of the writs, another sophisticated design element of this watch Although this achieved the desired waterproof effect, it had an extra step in winding and setting the watch, the front bezel had to be unscrewed everyday so that the watch could be wound. However, despite the design drawback, a number of manufacturers, including Eberhard, produced watches using this case design, not many have survived It appears that Wilsdorf must have liked the design and bought the patent, because a Rolex watch called the “Hermetic” using this case design was produced from 1924, and similar designs from other manufacturers disappeared. And lest we forget, the Gruen identical patent (more or less), applied for in 1918, was granted 1919. In January 1921 Jean Finger of Longeau, Berne, Switzerland, was granted Swiss patent number 89276 for a “Montre à remontoire avec boitier protecteur”—literally a watch with a protective box. The watch was placed inside a larger case with a screw-down bezel that formed a hermetic seal totally protecting the watch. Once the bezel was unscrewed, the smaller watchcase came out on a hinge to allow the hands to be set and the movement wound. The watch was placed inside a larger case with a screw-down bezel that formed a hermetic seal totally protecting the watch. Once the bezel was unscrewed, the smaller watchcase came out on a hinge to allow the hands to be set and the movement wound. Rolex called the “Hermetic” using this case design was produced from 1924, and similar designs from other manufacturers disappeared. The dial is simply signed “Eberhard” and is MINT! The black script is nice and dark and the blued steel hands are immaculate and original, the also have been relumed. I had this watch serviced by a European watch maker with 40 years of service, it runs fabulous as of this listing. This watch is a very exotic piece that has significant historical relevance and thus very collectible The movement is signed Eberhard and is a 15-jewel hand wound configuration with adjusted to 2 positions. The case is .925 silver and is marked inside the case back Double Boitier Brevet 89276, together with the case maker’s mark for Jean Finger. This makes this watch a historical treasure to own. It is original While this watch has been re-issued by Eberhard & Co, this is the original version, which like all originals, is still the best. Made in 1921, the case is a hermetic case, meaning that it is completely airtight to protect the inner workings from dust, humidity and water. While we would not recommend a vintage watch to be worn in the water, this was a technological leap in watchmaking 100 years ago. The case is made from solid sterling silver, and finding an original Eberhard & Co Calotte Patrouille in solid sterling silver that has not been badly worn is a rare treat. With the case measuring 28mm across, this is a small watch however the interesting fact about this watch, is that when it was made it was actually a gents watch as Eberhard & Co did not make their first ladies watch until 1947. We have presented this watch on a new 10mm wide band, however this can easily be put onto a military style band that is much wider. Not only is the case an incredibly exciting and rare case design along with a beautiful color of sterling silver , but the dial as well is just as spectacular. The white dial has been refinished by one of the leading dial refinishing companies. I have had the dial relumed with the appearance of aged luminous material that actually glows. Inside is a 15 jeweled manual wind Eberhard & Co Calotte movement that has just come back from an extensive service, runs beautifully . Both on and off the wrist, this is such an incredibly beautiful watch that will always be such a wonderful conversation starter. I have seen this watch auctioned for as low as $2200.00 for a badly worn case and a dial that is either damaged or cracked. Use the pictures to evaluate condition. It is simple stunning, that high of price is due to the rarity
  • Creator:
  • Strap Material:
    Leather
  • Case Shape:
    Round
  • Movement:
  • Case Dimensions:
    Height: 0.34 in (8.5 mm)Width: 1.25 in (31.5 mm)Diameter: 1.25 in (31.5 mm)
  • Style:
  • Place of Origin:
  • Period:
  • Date of Manufacture:
    1920's
  • Condition:
    Replacements made: Crystal Band. Repaired: Complete Tear Down Service Dial and hands were cleaned and professionally refinished to their original status Case was hand polished One Piece WW1 leather watch band New crystals. Minor losses. If you are looking for a very hard to source watch in extraordinary condition look no further. The "Hermetic: series are very hard to find in exceptional condition, I have three for sale!
  • Seller Location:
    Raleigh, NC
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU3149217490282
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