Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680 18 Karat Gold Original Tropical Dial Watch 'R-23'

A watch that could survive 100 meters underwater? The concept was unthinkable in 1953, when Rolex introduced what would become the benchmark for a diver’s watch, the Submariner, at the international watch and jewelry fair in Basel, Switzerland. By this point, Rolex was well-versed in durable timepieces; it had released the Oyster, the world’s first waterproof watch, in 1926. The Submariner — full name: Oyster Perpetual Submariner — would go on to become not only a technical feat but also a decade-spanning status symbol.

Technically, the Submariner watch is defined by its scratch-resistant, ceramic, rotatable bezel, which allows for optimal accuracy even deep underwater and bears a knurled rim for ease of adjustment with diving gloves. Later versions of the timepiece are waterproof to 300 meters — although most fans of the watch, content to sport the timepiece on solid ground, will likely never test that capability.

The Submariner’s most famous star turn, perhaps, is its association with one famous fictional spy. In playing the role of James Bond, Sean Connery sported a reference 6538 in several of the series’ films. George Lazenby, Roger Moore and Timothy Dalton would go on to wear subsequent models of the Submariner in their respective portrayals of the secret agent.

Connery’s Submariner loyalty in the early Bond films correlated with the watch’s move from diving accoutrement to widely coveted accessory. Other well-known Submariner admirers have included rock legend and watch aficionado Eric Clapton as well as Steve McQueen, Al Pacino and even Che Guevara. In 2016, GQ magazine dubbed the Rolex wristwatch “the male engagement ring” and recognized the Submariner as “the most primally loved” of the brand’s models. 

Given the numerous versions of Submariner that Rolex has produced since 1953, variations are plentiful.

The first Submariners were manufactured in stainless steel. Since then, Rolex has added versions in yellow gold as well as a mix of its “Oystersteel” — a high-quality stainless steel produced in-house at the watchmaker — and yellow gold.

Other modifications relate to the dial’s characteristics or the style of the hands: Modern Submariners bear the name “Submariner” on their dials, although not all early models do. (Some attribute this to an unforeseen trademark issue.) Pre-1965 models have dials printed in gold, while those produced since then are white. The hands of later models are shaped in the decorative cathedral style as opposed to the slender pencil-style hands of the early models.

Details aside, Submariners of all eras bear an undeniable allure. Who, after all, wouldn’t want to wear the same timepiece as James Bond?

While the rise in popularity of vintage Rolex watches is of no surprise to aficionados, collectors and industry experts, when it comes to contemporary luxury wristwatches, Rolex is also often the first brand that springs to mind. Not only is the company revered for its precision timekeeping and impeccable craftsmanship, but its name was designed to be memorable.

Rolex's enviable worldwide recognition can be credited in part to the genius of company founder Hans Wilsdorf. When the German-born watch dealer and his brother-in-law, Alfred Davis, set up their London enterprise, in 1905, they called it Wilsdorf & Davis, according to the traditional formula.

But Wilsdorf was determined to come up with another name that was short, would look good on a watch dial and was easy to say and remember in several languages. In 1908, he trademarked the name Rolex, and by 1920, he had moved the company to Geneva and redubbed it as Montres Rolex S.A.

But the main reasons for the brand’s success are its aforementioned commitment to precision and unflagging pursuit of innovation. In 1926, the company introduced the aptly named Oyster model. With a screw-down crown and case back, both fitted with rubber gaskets, this was the first truly waterproof watch.

Five years later, Rolex upped the ante with the Oyster Perpetual. That model’s patented Perpetual movement contained a rotor mechanism enabling it to self-wind. In another trendsetting move, in 1945, the brand debuted the Datejust, with a date window prominently displayed on the dial.

The company’s two most iconic models are sports watches. Although the Submariner, which debuted in 1953, was developed as a dive watch, its waterproof case, solid construction and good looks made it a favorite of adventurers and urbanites alike, including James Bond, who wore it in classics like Dr. No and Goldfinger. The Daytona, the racing chronograph made famous by Paul Newman, is especially sought after by collectors. Newman’s personal Daytona, which hit the auction block in 2017, sold for $17.8 million.

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