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JohnGalliano 1999 ChevronWoolFanPleat BiasCutSilk Elongated TealGreen ShiftDress

Name: JohnGalliano 1999 ChevronWoolFanPleat BiasCutSilk Elongated TealGreen ShiftDress
Brand: John Galliano
Price: 3250 USD
Availability: InStock

About the Item

While John Galliano was also creating his early Dior haute-couture fashion collections as its acclaimed creative director, for Fall/Winter 1999 ready-to-wear for his ongoing eponymous Paris-based fashion house, the Brit designed this teal green woven-wool day-to-evening dress with a luxurious bias-cut satin silk underlay and couture-like finishing. Evidenced by this dress, at that time Galliano was championed by the editors of U.S. Vogue as the leader of the sleek ultra-feminine trend. The influential magazine had earlier helped to establish him in Paris with a U.S. financial backer for an independent atelier and in American among high-end retailers--from where this dress was purchased by the sole owner, but never worn. Although its streamlined elegance that creates a striking silhouette has the look of a conservative linear dress designed by Christian Dior himself, this elongated sheath has multiple elements that are distinctive of the English designer, who was the first from the U.K. to head a French haute-couture house. The midi-length dress features a fanned kick-pleat in back that flares into zig-zag lines at the center-seam, while the chevron weave repeats these arrow shapes. The attached silk lining is masterfully cut on a bias to swing freely and constructed with a rear waistline that drops to a point like a chevron, which is echoed by the wool exterior that is otherwise shaped by princess seams, tucks, and waist darts. The strap-like narrow shoulder-seams of the sleeveless almost boat-neck dress add other linear aspects to the bodice. Lastly, the fine tailoring is evidenced by the double stitching and the almost-reversible dress that is revealed when examining the shiny interior (a photo where the brand label is visible shows the dress turned inside out on a hanger). The "Made In France" dress retains labels include the post-1993 burgundy-and-blue brand tag "John Galliano Paris" and an origin/materials/size tag. It will best suit a curvy figure with a slim waist that is either a US-size 8 or a long-waisted or tall 6. The dress invisibly zips on one side with hook-and-eye fastening under the arm. Notably by 1999, Galliano had already won several British Designer of the Year awards from the British Fashion Awards. In 1997, he received the honor of International Designer of the Year from the Council of Fashion Designers of America, when Galliano was heading Dior after debuting his first haute-couture collection at Givenchy the year prior.

Designer:

John Galliano

Brand:

John Galliano

Dimensions:

Length: 43 in (109.22 cm)Marked Size: 40 (EU)Bust: 36 in (91.44 cm)Waist: 29 in (73.66 cm)Hip: 38 in (96.52 cm)Shoulder to Hem: 41.5 in (105.41 cm)

Style:

1990s (Of the Period)

Place of Origin:

France

Period:

1990-1999

Condition:

Wear consistent with age and use.

Seller Location:

Chicago, IL

Reference Number:

1stDibs: LU3244220335592

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Shop All John Galliano

John Galliano

Known for introducing rich theatricality and memorable fashion spectacles to the runway, John Galliano has enjoyed a singular career. The audacious British designer has garnered universal acclaim for genre-breaking collections not only at his eponymous label but also for Givenchy and Christian Dior.

From his embroidered absinthe-green Oscars gown for actress Nicole Kidman to the iconic sleeveless newspaper-print dress that Sex and the City’s Carrie Bradshaw made famous, Galliano’s intricate and multifaceted work is reliably newsworthy, drawing on history as often as it embodies a fresh and forward-looking sensibility, and over the years the designer has helped shape an ever-broadening new legion of enthusiasts for Parisian couture.

Born in Gibraltar but raised in South London by strict Roman Catholic working-class parents, Galliano attended the all-boys Church of England grammar school, where his flamboyance and interest in art attracted the attention of bullies. Eventually, Galliano ended up at the prestigious design and art school Central Saint Martins College (then called Saint Martin’s School of Art), where fellow British designers Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen also trained.

Galliano flourished at Central Saint Martins. While a student, he worked in the costume department at the National Theatre in London. His graduate collection in 1984, dubbed “Les Incroyables” and named for post–French Revolution fashion lovers, was modeled by close friends of his and earned a standing ovation. The line ended up in the storefront windows of London luxury boutique Brown’s on South Molton Street, and Galliano’s first official collection — after he graduated — debuted at Paris Fashion Week in 1989.

In the early 1990s, Galliano’s relationship with his financial backer, Plein Sud’s Faycal Amor, ended, and by 1994, he was broke and sleeping on the floor of a friend’s apartment. Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour and then-Vanity Fair editor André Leon Talley stepped in and introduced the budding designer to Portuguese socialite and fashion patron São Schlumberger and others. At Schlumberger’s Hôtel Particulier, Galliano’s shows became the stuff of fashion legend. His collection, a blend of Japanese modernist style as well as nostalgia for Art Deco and 1940s’ tailoring, earned raves in glossy magazines and garnered the attention of Princess Diana, Madonna and other fashion luminaries.

Once the Galliano name was well known among the world’s most stylish set, the chairperson of LVMH, Bernard Arnault, appointed Galliano head designer of French fashion house Givenchy. One year later, in 1996, LVMH moved him to the design team at Dior, where he produced scores of celebrated looks for Dior Haute Couture. Today, Galliano is the creative director of Maison Margiela.

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