Belgian designer Martin Margiela (b. 1957) — whose life, career, and designs for handbags, clothing and shoes have become cult-collector obsessions — pushed those who attended his shows outside their comfort zones. In the years following the 1988 debut of Maison Martin Margiela, he toyed with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today.
Consider the Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels, or his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies, from his Fall/Winter 1997 line. Or his oversize collection for Fall/Winter 2000. In 1992, Margiela told Dépêche Mode magazine, “My clothes appeal to women of a certain mindset rather than of a specific age or physique.”
Born in Genk, Belgium, in 1957, Margiela knew he wanted to be a fashion designer after catching glimpses of Parisian fashion on TV as a child. Although his parents discouraged this career choice as an oddly funny aspiration, Margiela enrolled in the fashion program of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. There, he befriended and graduated a year ahead of the Antwerp Six — the acclaimed group of Belgian fashion designers comprising Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk Van Saene.
Like many of his contemporaries in the 1980s, Margiela understood Paris fashion but felt a deep resonance with the deconstructed beauty espoused by Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garçons. Margiela’s fascination with Japan influenced many of his earliest collections and designs, from a dress pieced together from broken plates to his iconic Tabi boots, inspired by the split-toe Japanese worker’s shoe, which dates back to the 15th century.
Margiela decided to launch his own line while working for renowned Paris designer Jean Paul Gaultier. With Belgian designer Jenny Meirens, Margiela established Maison Martin Margiela in the French capital in 1988.
Margiela’s debut show was nothing short of spectacular. Set in a packed Café de la Gare in the still-seedy Marais district, it was also scandalous to the Parisian fashion set of the time. The designer tore up the conventions of contemporary couture presentations, most notably having his models, plucked from the streets and wearing ink-blotted Tabis, wend their way through the crowd.
The show redefined the concept of the runway in a way that would later inspire such designers as Alexander McQueen and Demna Gvasalia.
While the notoriously private designer retired from fashion in 2009, for many Maison Martin Margiela collectors, his pieces capture the irreverence of the postwar, post-punk late 1980s and ’90s. Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of the cult vintage fashion shop Resurrection, is among those who felt a connection to Margiela’s clothing in the subliminal challenges it posed to the time’s beauty norms.
“Growing up in San Francisco and coming out of the end of punk rock, not wanting to be objectified, not wanting to be seen as a sexual object, not wanting your value to be just because you’re pretty — all those clothes played into all of that,” she says. “It really was a reflection of the kind of world the young people I knew at the time wanted to live in.”
John Galliano was named creative director at the house in 2014 and it rebranded as Maison Margiela in 2015.
Find vintage Maison Martin Margiela boots, evening dresses, jackets and more on 1stDibs.
Martin Margiela White Shirt with Elaborate Cutout Back
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Water Mill, NY
A gorgeous white cotton shirt from Martin Margiela. It has long sleeves with cuffs, a shirt collar and button front. The back is stunning in a chevron pattern of the same fabric lea...
1990 MARTIN MARGIELA Deni Cler cigarette sleeve blazer RUNWAY jacket
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Fransisco, CA
MARTIN MARGIELA A blue/gray wool blazer with tone-on-tone stripes, Spring-Summer 1990. This exceptionally rare blazer from Maison Martin Margiela’s Spring 1990 collection exemplifie...
Martin Margiela Black Shiny Polyurethane Maxi Dress with Waist Cut Outs
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Water Mill, NY
A fabulous shirny black polyurethane ankle length dress by Martin Margiela. It is a crew neck from the front which turn into narrow straps in the back onto which the front and back a...
2016 MARGIELA by JOHN GALLIANO black sequin dress with waist cutout & open back
By Maison Martin Margiela, John Galliano
Located in San Fransisco, CA
Stunning black sequined dress designed by John Galliano for Margiela dating to resort of 2016. Metallic black sequins cover the entire dress, giving it a light-catching surface again...
MAISON MARGIELA black nylon 50-50 LOW TOP Sneakers Shoes 38
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Zürich, CH
These 100% authentic Maison Margiela 50-50 sneakers offer a fresh take on retro-inspired style. Crafted from black malleable nylon and soft suede, they blend comfort with subtle soph...
Martin Margiela Cape Back Jacket
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Water Mill, NY
A fabulous dramatic black fine wool jacket from Martin Margiela. It is collarless with long sleeves, a hidden button front closing and 2 front patch pockets. The back is stunning ...
Maison Margiela SS 2012 Sequin Tapestry Runway Skirt S
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Toronto, ON
Pre-owned Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2012 runway red, purple, and multicolour sequin maxi wrap skirt featuring tapestry pattern, white fringe trim, and hook and eye closures. Line...
Hermès by Martin Margiela Vintage Circa (1997-2003) Wool Dress
By Hermès, Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Antwerpen, Vlaams Gewest
Hermès by Martin Margiela Vintage Circa (1997-2003) Wool Dress Martin Margiela served as Hermès’ creative director for women’s ready-to-wear, shaping 12 iconic and unforgettable coll...
unworn 1999 MARTIN MARGIELA sheer 'crushed' black RUNWAY skirt
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Fransisco, CA
This is an intentionally “crushed” sheer black skirt from Maison Martin Margiela’s Spring 1999 collection. Made from lightweight chiffon, the skirt h...
1992 MARTIN MARGIELA black shrunken wool sweater
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Fransisco, CA
Very rare Martin Margiela black wool short-sleeve sweater dating to fall of 1992. Designed in a shrunken, fitted silhouette with a ribbed crew neckline, hem, and cuffs. The knit has ...
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA 00'S Iconic and rare artisanal jeans with leather patches
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, MILANO
00's iconic and rare artisanal black jeans with leather patches by Maison Martin Margiela Three pockets 100% cotton 100% leather
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA FW 90 Extremely rare slashed felted long sleeves top
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, MILANO
Extremely rare Fall Winter 1990 slashed felted long sleeves top by Maison Martin Margiela 72% wool 28% polyamide
$183Sale Price|30% Off
Maison Martin Margiela 2010s Fringe Trimmed Ankle Boots, Size 36.5
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in London, GB
Cool and quirky Maison Margiela ankle boots - bought for £695 and unworn. They have a softly draped, fabric swagged covering with structured inner and irregular fringed trim to top. ...
Martin Margiela New Split Leg Pants
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Water Mill, NY
Beautiful black wool pants from Martin Margiela. They are high waisted with a button waistband, fly front and full legs with 2 vertical splits one larger with a smaller one below it ...
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA 00's Rare and iconi artisanal customized jeans
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, MILANO
00's rare and iconic artisanal customized jeans by Maison Martin Margiela Two pockets at front 100% cotton
Maison Martin Margiela 1st Retrospective SheerBlack Convertible Veil Dress Apron
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Chicago, IL
As a variation of the traditional waiter apron that Belgian former fashion designer Martin Margiela reworked with his eponymous Maison Martin Margiela since its first collection for Spring/Summer 1989, this minimalist convertible transparent black chiffon rectangular garment, which can be styled as a tied face veil, wrap skirt or dress, was part of his 1994 first retrospective collection. The iconic corner-stitched textural white-cotton brand label is stenciled with seemingly contradictory text referencing an earlier Fall 1990 collection. Instead of the blank label that had become internationally recognized among progressive-fashion buyers during the brand's initial five years, this black print was added in this manner for only one collection during its founder's tenure. This distinct typography identifies it as one of his favorites that he reproduced from his first 10 fashion shows. This season-less self-curated retrospective collection without any new designs was unprecedented in the ready-to-wear luxury-fashion industry, which sold only newly-designed clothes typically two to five times annually. In the early 1990s, this old-made-new-again collection was astonishing for a Paris-based high-end brand, for which any lack of fresh designs for Spring had otherwise been attributed to the loss of an artistic director or the outbreak of war. Nevertheless, there are subtle differences of color, material and draping possibilities that make our re-edition unique from the referenced 1990 apron and from later "replicas", which was the term that Margiela printed on a different kind of label for his second self-curated retrospective in Spring 1999 following 10 more collections. Aside from the text-printed brand label with four characteristic hand-sewn corner stitches, the only other element that unified Margiela's first collection of favorites was that all the items were overdyed a darker color so that the clothes were various shades of grey, blue or black depending on the original color of the textile and how much dye the thread/yarn absorbed. The first Margiela apron...
$6,000Sale Price|60% Off
2009 Martin Margiela Mirrored Disco Jacket
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Austin, TX
2009 Martin Margiela Mirrored Disco Jacket Look #35 from Spring 2009 collection by Martin Margiela Can be worn as cape or jacket Condition: Very good, no...
Maison Margiela by Martin S/S 2008 Black Leather Cut Out Boots
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Caserta, IT
- Designed by Martin Margiela - Spring Summer 2008 - Black Leather Cut-Out Boots - Very good condition - High square heels - Made in Italy - Materials: Leather - Size: 37 IT - Coming...
Martin Margiela S/S 1999 Trompe L'oeil Stockman Cotton Vest Bustier
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Paris, FR
Cotton vest Maison Martin Margiela from the seminal Spring/Summer 1999 collection featuring the designer's deconstructed trompe l'oeil stockman concept. Crafted from grey cotton deni...
Maison Martin Margiela 2014 ecru silk shirt
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in CANNES, FR
Maison Martin Margiela 2014 Ecru silk shirt, collar with two faux pearls. Size 44 Italian.
$320Sale Price|20% Off
rare MAISON MARGIELA 2010 grey wool felt convex sole high heel pumps EU36
By MM6 Maison Margiela, Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Hong Kong, NT
rare MAISON MARGIELA 2010 grey wool felt convex sole high heel pumps EU36 Reference: ALCU/A00044 Brand: Maison Margiela Designer: Martin Margiela Collect...
Vintage 1990 MARTIN MARGIELA grey runway peacoat with cigarette shoulders
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Fransisco, CA
Very rare early Martin Margiela charcoal-grey wool peacoat dating to Fall 1990, as seen on the runway. The coat is cut with narrow “cigarette” sleeves and shaped through curved anato...
$3,864Sale Price|20% Off
rare MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA 2008 Runway MA1 Incognito clear shield sunglasses
By MM6 Maison Margiela, Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Hong Kong, NT
rare MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA 2008 Runway MA1 Incognito clear shield sunglasses Reference: TGAS/D00620 Brand: Maison Margiela Designer: Marti...
Couture MaisonMartinMargiela Artisanal Lingerie&WorkOnPaper White Boxed Set 1998
By Martin Margiella, Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Chicago, IL
As conceptual art while he transitioned to French luxury house Hermes Creative Director in 1998, Belgian Martin Margiela--whose creations today debut in the setting of a contemporary...
Maison Martin Margiela S/S 2000 Artisanal Paneled Oversized Shirt/Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Our Maison Martin Margiela oversized shirt/dress, screams early 2000's minimalism with a colorful flair. Maison Martin Margiela (now Maison Margiela) is a Parisian luxury fashion ho...
Hermès Set Twillaine FR40 Margiela Grey Silk Cashmere Ensemble UK12 US10 Hermes
By Hermès, Maison Martin Margiela
Located in PARIS, FR
Hermès Fall/Winter 1999 collection ensemble by Martin Margiela, Twillaine style, featuring the "Feux de l'Hiver" (Winter Fires) motif by Christiane Vauzelles (a motif originally rele...
Maison Martin Margiela Men's Sneaker Gold Ombre Limited Edition 43
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Miami, FL
Mightychic offers Maison Martin Margiela men's Limited Edition Ombre Gold numbered sneaker. Rare to find this fabulous Maison Martin Margiela snea...
Maison Margiela Artisanal Extended Jacket. Spring/Summer 2010
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in New York, NY
Rare and collectible Maison Margiela Artisanal Extended Jacket from Spring/Summer 2010. A lightweight crisp wool or wool blend is used for th...
Martin Margiela New Strapless Color Block Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Water Mill, NY
A fabulous light taupe silk and black net strapless gown from Martin Margiela top line collection. It falls in an A line from top to hem- taupe down to the mid calf then black netti...
Maison Margiela MM4 Black Tie-Front Shirt IT 38 US 2 Mandarin Designer Blouse
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Diego, CA
Maison Margiela MM4 Women Basics Tie Front Shirt in Black size IT 38 US 2 Elevate your avant-garde wardrobe with this Maison Margiela MM4 Basic Tie-Front Shirt in classic black. T...
Maison Margiela Blue Metallic Patent Leather Mary Jane Tabi Pumps
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
Maison Margiela Blue Metallic Patent Leather Mary Jane Tabi Pumps are a striking and avant-garde footwear choice that seamlessly blends bold design with...
Christian Louboutin x Maison Margiela Xrismarteen 100 Knee High Boots 37
By Christian Louboutin, Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Mechanicsville, VA
Christian Louboutin x Maison Margiela Xrismarteen 100 Knee High Boots 37 Color Black Size 37EU Heel Height 100mm Nappa leather upper Leather lined Leather sole with new Forever Sol...
$616Sale Price|30% Off
MAISON MARGIELA 2005 Vintage 100% silk black sideways off shoulder top IT42 M
By MM6 Maison Margiela, Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Hong Kong, NT
MAISON MARGIELA 2005 Vintage 100% silk black sideways off shoulder top IT42 M Reference: TGAS/C01158 Brand: Maison Margiela Designer: Martin Margi...
Martin Maison Margiela Men's Sneaker Graffiti Print 43
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Miami, FL
Guaranteed authentic Maison Martin Margiela men's graffiti print sneaker. Rare to find this fabulous Maison Martin Margiela sneaker is perfect for th...
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA 00's Iconic Limited Edition Tabi Boots
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, MILANO
2000's iconic limited edition tabi boots by Maison Martin Margiela. Nailed wooden heels. N' 105/150. The composition is 100% leather.
2006 Martin Marginal MM6 Black Multi way Technical Zip Pocket Jacket / Blazer
By MM6 Maison Margiela, Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Sheffield, GB
2006 Martin Marginal MM6 Black Multi way Technical Chrome Zip Pocket Jacket / Blazer. This Technical Jacket features detachable pockets that can be moved and adjusted to offer a rang...
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA FW 08 Rare and iconic coat with structured shoulders
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, MILANO
Rare and iconic Fall Winter 2008 coat with structured shoulders by Maison Martin Margiela Inner shoulder pads Buttons and belt closure Two pockets 70% wool 30% cotton
$6,630Sale Price|35% Off
MARTIN MARGIELA 1990's Vintage black silver handpainted tabi boot EU39
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Hong Kong, NT
MARTIN MARGIELA 1990's Vintage black silver handpainted tabi boot EU39 Reference: TGAS/A04278 Brand: Maison Margiela Designer: Martin Margiela Model: T...
Martin Margiela F/W 2008 Curved Zip Up Silk Skirt
By Martin Margiella, Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Caserta, IT
- Designed by Martin Margiela - Fall winter 2008 - Curved Zip Up Silk Skirt - Double curved zipper closure that goes till the hem - Midi Length - Double Layered - Very good condition...
Maison Martin Margiela Sac Daim Pentagon Base Beige Suede Bucket Bag by Margiela
By Martin Margiella, Maison Martin Margiela
Located in PARIS, FR
Maison Martin Margiela bag, rigid base with pentagon motif, in slightly pale yellow beige suede, suede interior with 2 compartments, one plated and...
Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal "Super Bowl" Vintage Sweatshirt Bag Ss 2001
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Resurrection Vintage is thrilled to offer a vintage Margiela artisanal "Super Bowl" sweatshirt bag from the spring 2001 collection. This bag is constructed from a vintage Super Bowl ...
Maison Martin Margiela Joan Of Arc Cotton Coated Sweater With Deep Neckline 2000
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Resurrection Vintage is excited to offer a vintage Maison Martin Margiela off-white knit "Joan of Arc" style sweater, featuring a cotton yellow coating, a deep neckline, long sleeves...
Maison Margiela C. 1990's Sheer Black Diagonal Pleated Raw Edge Slip Dress IT 40
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Toronto, ON
Pre-owned Maison Margiela black chiffon midi dress featuring a diagonal pleated design, raw trim, signature four white stitches at back, and cutout back collar with button fastening....
Maison Martin Margiela Eagle Print Long Sleeve Sweatshirt Novelty Dress
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Diego, CA
Amazing MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA eagle print long sleeve sweatshirt dress!!! Bald eagle print on the left side with vibrant colors of green, yellow, pu...
S/S 2007 White Label Halter Top
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Amsterdam, NH
Beautiful Margiela halter top in blue wool. In great condition, from the S/S 2007 collection. Brand: Margiela Period: 00's Material: Wool Size: OS Origin: Made in Italy Condition: V...
Martin Margiela Geometric Draped Top
By Maiscon Martin Margiella, Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Water Mill, NY
A gorgeous sleeveless top in a beautiful teal green from Martin Margiela. It has a V neckline, side zipper and draping panels on the front and over one shoulder. The back is simple. ...
$810Sale Price|55% Off
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA ARTISANAL 2003 Runway brown deconstructed sleeves vest
By MM6 Maison Margiela, Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Hong Kong, NT
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA ARTISANAL 2003 Runway brown deconstructed sleeves vest Reference: TGAS/B02235 Brand: Maison Margiela Designer: Martin Margiela Collection: Artisanal - Fall Win...
Maison Margiela 50s Replica Harvard Blazer - '00s
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, Lombardia
Experience vintage elegance with the Maison Margiela 50s Replica Harvard Blazer. Crafted from 100% wool in regal navy blue, this blazer from the Replica label is a reproduction of a ...
Maison Martin Margiela Rhinestone Leather Collar Necklace, 2000s
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in CAPELLE AAN DEN IJSSEL, ZH
A striking archival accessory from Maison Martin Margiela dating to the 2000s, embodying the house’s avant garde approach to jewelry and adornment. Designed as a sculptural oversized...
Maison Margiela Red Leather Platform Croc Clogs 39
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Maison Margiela Red Leather Platform Croc Clogs in size 39. These shoes feature perforated leather similar to the look of Crocs, but with the style of clog...
MAISON MARGIELA Vintage white nude sheer panel deconstructed shirt blouse IT42 M
By Maison Martin Margiela, MM6 Maison Margiela
Located in Hong Kong, NT
MAISON MARGIELA Vintage white nude sheer panel deconstructed shirt top blouse IT42 M Reference: AEMA/A00182 Brand: Maison Margiela Designer: Martin Margiela Material: Feels like cott...
rare MARTIN MARGIELA ARTISANAL black fabric fringed tassel pom pom belt
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Hong Kong, NT
rare MARTIN MARGIELA ARTISANAL black fabric fringed tassel pom pom trim self tie belt Reference: TGAS/F01083 Brand: Martin Margiela Designer: Martin Margiela Model: Repurposed Furnit...
Maison Margiela MM4 Fused Wool Knit Open back Tunic size XS Light Gray Navy rare
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Diego, CA
Maison Margiela MM4 Fused Wool Knit Open back Tunic size XS This Maison Margiela MM4 Fused Wool Knit Tunic is a striking piece from the Spring/Summer 2019 collection. It features a...
Maison Martin Margiela 2004 S/S white pinstripe blouse with gathered lapels
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in CAPELLE AAN DEN IJSSEL, ZH
Maison Martin Margiela 2004 S/S white pinstripe blouse with gathered lapels Blouse from Maison Margiela's Spring 2004 runway collection epitomizes the ...
MARTIN MARGIELA RUNWAY Replica '1970's evening dress'
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in San Fransisco, CA
Martin Margiela Replica “1970’s Evening Dress” in jet black. Inspired by a vintage 1970s silhouette, this dress is made from a soft, fluid jersey that drapes beautifully on the body....
Margiela red leather painted tabi boots, fw 1995
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in London, GB
Martin Margiela; red leather painted tabi boots Fall-Winter 1995
Vintage 1990’s Martin Margiela oversized tuck dress
By Maiscon Martin Margiella, Maison Martin Margiela
Located in COLLINGWOOD, AU
This piece epitomises the deconstructed era of the Margiela house in the 1990’s. A mid length, A line shaped dress in a signature colour for the house with tucks and folds over the ...
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA FW 07 Rare cape dress with oversize structured shoulders
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in Milano, MILANO
Rare Fall Winter 2007 cape dress with oversize structured shoulders by Maison Martin Margiela Buttons closure at back Two inner pockets at front Tubular scarf Fully lined 79% viscos...
Martin Margiela runway three piece ensemble, fw 2001
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in London, GB
Martin Margiela three piece runway ensemble comprising: man's car coat in leather with embossed details, chiffon tassel dress and thigh high wedge Tabi boots...
Margiela Artisanal black glove top and pleated skirt runway ensemble, ss 2001
By Maison Martin Margiela
Located in London, GB
Martin Margiela; Runway ensemble (LOOK #10) Artisanal shirt-front made out of black leather gloves and oversized black artisanal skirt made out of vintage pleated skirts...