1920s Multi Colored Austrian Crochet Coat
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1920s Multi Colored Austrian Crochet Coat
About the Item
MEASUREMENTS (laid flat with front opening pulled together)
– Bust – 42”
- Waist – 41”
- Front V to hem - 38 ”
- Underarm to underarm – 45”
- Shoulder to wrist - 29”
- Shoulder to shoulder – 24”
- Hip – 41”
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Austrian Crochet Coat
Extremely stylized Art Deco design. Could be Wiener Werkstatte made for export. Polychrome glossy rayon crochet circa 1925.
Established in 1903, the Wiener Werkstätte (Vienna Workshop) was a production community of visual artists. The workshop brought together architects, artists and designers whose first commitment was to design art which would be accessible to everyone. The work most representative of the Wiener Werkstätte is probably the Stoclet Palace in Brussels.
The enterprise, sometimes also named incorrect: Wiener or Weiner Werkstatte, Wiener Werkstaetten, evolved from the Vienna Secession, founded in 1897 as a progressive alliance of artists and designers. From the start, the Secession had placed special emphasis on the applied arts, and its 1900 exhibition surveying the work of contemporary European design workshops prompted the young architect Josef Hoffmann and his artist friend Koloman Moser to consider establishing a similar enterprise in Austria.
Finally in 1903, with backing from the industrialist Fritz Wärndorfer, the Wiener Werkstätte saw the light of day. From three small rooms, it soon expanded to fill a three-story building with separate, specially designed facilities for metalwork, leatherwork, bookbinding, woodworking and a paint shop.
The undertaking "WIENER WERKSTAETTE" had a clear aim: to make all facets of human life into one unified work of art.
This began with the creation of - for that time extraordinarily - advanced working conditions for the craftsmen, and it ended with the wish to create everything entirely anew, whether or not it was needed for everyday use or schould act as decoration.
It was also decided only to approve objects of outstanding individuality and beauty, and great value was put on the exclusive and exquisite craftsmanship.
This followed the organisation's motto: "Better to work 10 days on one product than to manufacture 10 products in one day."
The seat of the venture was in the Neustiftgasse 32-34, where a new building was adapted to their requirements. It would eventually exhaust Wärndorfers complete fortune, in the meantime, however, the enthusiasm with which the keyfigures threw themselves into work was great. Through exhibitions and fairs and along with the encouragement of a well-wishing press the Wiener Werkstatte quickly gained an excellent and widespread reputation. The duo Hoffmann and Moser complemented each other so well, that for a time it was impossible to differ between their design.
The circle of customers of the Wiener Werkstatte and Josef Hoffmanns mainly consisted of artists and the open-minded, progressive and financially well-to-do Jewish upper middle class of the monarchy. Most of the objects produced in the Wiener Werkstatte were stamped with a number of different hallmarks, with the trademark of the Wiener Werkstatte, the monogram of the designer and that of the craftsman, who completed it. The Wiener Werkstatte had about 100 employees in 1905, of whom 37 were masters of their trade.
Branches in Karlsbad 1909, Marienbad, Zürich 1916/17, New York 1922, Berlin 1929.
In architectural commissions such as the Purkersdorf Sanatorium and the lavish Palais Stoclet in Brussels, the Wiener Werkstätte was able to realize its ideal of the Gesamtkunstwerk (total artwork), a coordinated environment in which everything down to the last teaspoon was consciously designed.
From 1904 for several years the Wiener Werkstaette had its own carpentry workshop. But only few pieces of furniture were made there.
Most of the furniture known as Wiener Werkstaette Furniture were made by such excellent cabinet-makers as: Portois & Fix, Johann Soulek, Anton Herrgesell, Anton Pospisil, Friedrich Otto Schmidt and Johann Niedermoser.
Some historians now take measure to the Werkstaette's articles of association, when they agreed that the Wiener Werkstaette is a production cooperative with equality of designing artists and executing craftsmen and they say that there are almost no original Wiener Werkstaette Furniture existing.
Hoffmann's significance as an early industrial designer for bentwood furniture can hardly be overestimated. For the firm Jacob & Josef Kohn, he designed a furniture series noted for its simple forms and timeless elegance.
From 1905, the Wiener Werkstatte produced handpainted and printed silks. The Backhausen firm was responsible for the machine-printed and woven textiles. The variety of objects produced from the Wiener Werkstatte was immense.
As well as leather goods, enamel, jewellery, postcards and ceramic the Wiener Werkstatte even had a hat department. After the First World War, the Wiener Werkstatte was influenced by a new generation of artists and craftsmen. The most important impulses came from Dagobert Peche.
In 1907, the Wiener Werkstätte took over distribution for the Wiener Keramik, a ceramics workshop of kindred spirit headed by Michael Powolny and Berthold Löffler.
The Wiener Werkstätte's first years were heady times, during which the collaboration between Hoffmann and Moser reached its peak. The two artists created a geometric style whose functional simplicity anticipates later modernism and has influenced the work of many of today's leading designers and architects.
In 1907, Moser, embittered by the financial squabbling, left the Wiener Werkstätte, which subsequently entered a new phase, both stylistically and economically.
Berthold Löffler and Carl Otto Czeschka, who both became associated with the Werkstätte around 1905, brought with them a renewed interest in figuration that had direct bearing on the early work of the Expressionist Oskar Kokoschka. During and immediately following World War I, it was Dagobert Peche whose ornamental, almost baroque fancies exerted the most palpable influence.
The founding of textile and fashion divisions in 1909 and 1910 brought a further shift in the Wiener Werkstätte's emphasis-- away from the architectural and toward the ephemeral.
After the war, material shortages encouraged experimentation with less durable, less precious materials such as wood, ceramics and papier-maché. The original, grand Gesamtkunstwerk vision became diluted and submerged by the Kunstgewerbliches-- the artsy-craftsy.
The complete impoverishment of the truncated Austrian nation after World War I undoubtedly played a significant role in the demise of the Wiener Werkstätte. Attempts to expand the workshop's scope-- adding such items as wallpaper to its limited program of industrial licenses, and establishing branches in Zurich, New York and Berlin--were not particularly successful.
After a close brush with bankruptcy in 1913, Wärndorfer was shipped off to America and the following year Otto Primavesi, a banker from Moravia, took over as chief financier and patron. Its need for a perennial Milchkuh (cash cow) to provide a steady stream of cash is often cited as symptomatic of the Wiener Werkstätte's economic naiveté, but in fact the notion of the enlightened patron was central to the Werkstätte's operating philosophy.
The Werkstätte recognized early on that its role was not to reach the masses, but rather to create a rarified environment for the wealthy few.
So long as the Austrian empire survived, whole and thriving, this goal was not particularly unrealistic.
The year 1932 marked the liquidation of the Wiener Werkstatte.
Textiles
Works designed by Mathilde Flögl Lotte Föchler-Frömmel, Josef Hoffmann, Hilda Jesser, Ludwig Heinrich, Maria Likarz, Rita Luzzatte, Koloman Moser, Dagobert Peche, Kitty Rix, Max Snischek and Franz von Zülow
Typography and the graphic arts
Works designed by Carl Otto Czeschka, Josef Diveky, Anton Faistauer, Remigius Geyling, Heddi Hirsch, Emil Hoppe, Ludwig Heinrich Jungnickel, Rudolf Kalvach, Hans Kalmsteiner, Mela Köhler, Oskar Kokoschka, Rudolf von Larish, Maria Likarz, Berthold Löffler, Moritz Jung, Editha Moser, Koloman Moser, Dagobert Peche, Kitty Rix, Alfred Roller, Egon Schiele, Ver Sacrum; Beethoven exhibition catalogue and "Kachelalmanach"
Fine arts
Works by Leopold Forstner, Heddi Hirsch, Josef Hoffmann, Ludwig Heinrich Jungnickel, Gustav Klimt, Oskar Kokoschka, Max Kurzweil, Berthold Löffler, Koloman Moser, Emil Orlik and Egon Schiele
The Wiener Werkstaette also was active as an agent or merchand middleman with products of: Wiener Keramik, Eduard Klablena, Kaulitz, Bachmann, Cloeter, Lobmeyr, Meyr's Neffe, Moser-Karlsbad, Oertel, Schappel, Loetz Witwe, Tiroler Glashütte, Pfeiffer & Löwenstein, Böcke, Kaiser, Petzold, Berger, Rosenbaum, Schmidt, Backhausen, Portois & Fix, Johann Soulek (Palais Stoclet, Haus Ast) , Anton Herrgesell, Anton Pospisil, Friedrich Otto Schmidt, Johann Niedermoser, Anton Ziprosch und Franz Gloser ( Purkersdorf)..
Important members of this workshop were the painter Gustav Klimt, Egon Schiele, Emilie Floge, Max Lenz, Wilhelm Lizst, Emil Orlik, Dagobert Peche, Eduard Wimmer Wisgrill, Leopold Bauer, Oskar Kokoschka, Vally Wieselthier, Otto Prutscher, Emanuel Margold, Hans Ofner, C.O. Czeschka, Michael Powolny, Carl Moll and Maria Likarz.
© Historical information was taken from Wikipedia.
- Brand:Wiener Werkstätte
- Dimensions:Length: 38 in (96.52 cm)Bust: 42 in (106.68 cm)Waist: 41 in (104.14 cm)Hip: 41 in (104.14 cm)
- Period:
- Material Notes:Rayon crochet with grosgrain collar
- Condition:Excellent condition.
- Seller Location:Los Angeles, CA
- Reference Number:1stDibs: AU09091249142
Wiener Werkstätte
Born from the Vienna Secession art movement in Austria during the early 20th century, the Wiener Werkstätte helped to cement Art Nouveau style and culture in Viennese art. Wiener Werkstätte furniture included armchairs, cabinets and table lamps, with production extending to other crafts such as ceramics, jewelry and fashion. The Werkstätte also boasted a large graphic arts department, which created nearly 1,000 unique postcards during the organization’s run.
Austrian architect Josef Hoffmann, painter Koloman Moser and industrialist Fritz Waerndorfer established the collective in opposition to the dominant trends in Viennese art. The artistic community was then largely directed by the Association of Austrian Artists, which had firm control over the creation and distribution of Austrian art. The collective’s style pushed back against traditional artistic preferences, instead favoring clear, bold lines and often-exaggerated, vibrant colors.
Employing over 100 people, including several master craftsmen, the Werkstätte formed relationships and alliances with a number of firms and stores, which sold and commissioned new work from the workshop.
As the Wiener Werkstätte’s mission aligned with emerging British sensibilities regarding art, many British artists worked closely with the collective. Some major Austrian artists collaborated with the collective, without officially joining, such as painter Gustav Klimt.
The Werkstätte’s artistic range was extensive and eclectic, with the organization producing a wide variety of furniture. In 1932, the global economic collapse forced it to shut down. With the outbreak of WWII soon to follow, the Wiener Werkstätte never reopened. Its legacy lived on, however, in the numerous artists and craftspeople who carried forward its commitment to progressive cultural and creative endeavors.
On 1stDibs, find antique Wiener Werkstätte lighting, seating and storage pieces.
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