Margiela ivory cotton down filled duvet coat with brown wool cover, fw 1999
About the Item
- Designer:
- Brand:
- Dimensions:Marked Size: Medium (EU)
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Condition:
- Seller Location:London, GB
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU14028498322
Maison Martin Margiela
Belgian designer Martin Margiela (b. 1957) — whose life, career, clothing designs and vintage shoes have become cult-collector obsessions — pushed those who attended his shows outside their comfort zones. In the years following his maison's 1988 debut, he toyed with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today.
Consider the Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels, or his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies, from his Fall/Winter 1997 line. Or his oversize collection for Fall/Winter 2000. In 1992, Margiela told Dépêche Mode magazine, “My clothes appeal to women of a certain mindset rather than of a specific age or physique.”
Born in Genk, Belgium, in 1957, Margiela knew he wanted to be a fashion designer after catching glimpses of Parisian fashion on TV as a child. Although his parents discouraged this career choice as an oddly funny aspiration, Margiela enrolled in the fashion program of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. There, he befriended and graduated a year ahead of the Antwerp Six — the acclaimed group of Belgian fashion designers comprising Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk Van Saene.
Like many of his contemporaries in the 1980s, Margiela understood Paris fashion but felt a deep resonance with the deconstructed beauty espoused by Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garçons. Margiela’s fascination with Japan influenced many of his earliest collections and designs, from a dress pieced together from broken plates to his iconic Tabi boots, inspired by the split-toe Japanese worker’s shoe, which dates back to the 15th century. He decided to launch his own line while working for renowned Paris designer Jean Paul Gaultier.
Margiela, Gaultier has often stated, was his best assistant. Even then, the 2019 film Martin Margiela: In His Own Words suggests, he was acutely aware of the widening gulf between the art and the business of fashion.
Margiela’s debut show was nothing short of spectacular. Set in a packed Café de la Gare in the still-seedy Marais district, it was also scandalous to the Parisian fashion set of the time. The designer tore up the conventions of contemporary couture presentations, most notably having his models, plucked from the streets and wearing ink-blotted Tabis, wend their way through the crowd. The show redefined the concept of the runway in a way that would later inspire such designers as Alexander McQueen and Demna Gvasalia.
While the notoriously private designer retired from fashion in 2009, for many Maison Martin Margiela collectors, his pieces capture the irreverence of the postwar, post-punk late 1980s and ’90s. Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of the cult vintage fashion shop Resurrection, is among those who felt a connection to Margiela’s clothing in the subliminal challenges it posed to the time’s beauty norms.
“Growing up in San Francisco and coming out of the end of punk rock, not wanting to be objectified, not wanting to be seen as a sexual object, not wanting your value to be just because you’re pretty — all those clothes played into all of that,” she says. “It really was a reflection of the kind of world the young people I knew at the time wanted to live in.”
Find vintage Maison Martin Margiela boots, evening dresses, jackets and more on 1stDibs.
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: London, United Kingdom
- Return PolicyThis item cannot be returned.
- Alber Elbaz for Yves Saint Laurent Autumn-Winter 1999 fox fur capeletBy Yves Saint Laurent, Alber ElbazLocated in London, GBAlber Elbaz for Yves Saint Laurent Autumn-Winter 1999 fox fur capeletCategory
1990s Italian Capes
- Alexander McQueen Men's blue denim trench coatBy Alexander McQueenLocated in London, GBAlexander McQueen Men's blue denim trench coatCategory
Early 2000s British Coats and Outerwear
- Raf Simons black wool full length button up priest coat, 'confusion' aw 2000By Raf SimonsLocated in London, GBRaf Simons black wool full length button up priest coat 'Confusion' Autumn-Winter 2000Category
1990s Belgian Coats and Outerwear
- Gucci Autumn-Winter 2006 Men's black wool evening coatBy GucciLocated in London, GBGucci Autumn-Winter 2006 Men's black wool evening coat with metal hook and eye closures and silk liningCategory
Early 2000s Italian Coats and Outerwear
- Christian Dior by Marc Bohan brown mink cape with leather tassels, c. 1970By Christian DiorLocated in London, GBStep into luxury with the exquisite Christian Dior by Marc Bohan brown mink cape from the 1970s. This opulent piece boasts lambskin leather tassels and hook-and-eye closures, adorned...Category
1970s French Ponchos
- Raf Simons black wool and grey neoprene coat, fw 2009By Raf SimonsLocated in London, GBIntroducing the Raf Simons Autumn-Winter 2009 black wool men's coat, a striking and innovative piece that exemplifies the designer's bold and visionary approach to menswear. Crafted...Category
Early 2000s Belgian Coats and Outerwear
- CHRISTIAN DIOR ivory white MINK FUR COLLARLESS CROPPED Jacket 38 SBy Christian DiorLocated in Zürich, CH100% authentic Christian Dior collarless jacket in off-white mink (100%). Opens with four hooks on the front. Lined in off-white silk (100%). Has been worn and is in excellent condit...Category
2010s Coats
- LORO PIANA pastel pink cashmere Knit Jacket 38 XSBy Loro PianaLocated in Zürich, CH100% authentic Loro Piana Suede-Collar Knit-Jacket in pastel pink and white baby cashmere (100%) and with beige suede goatskin (100%) details at the d...Category
2010s Coats
- BURBERRY PRORSUM white SHEARLING TRIM wool cashmere Open Jacket SBy Burberry ProrsumLocated in Zürich, CHBurberry Prorsum open jacket in off-white lamb shearling, virgin wool (88%) and cashmere (12%) with ribbed finished cuffs in virgin wool (81%) and cashmere (19%). Unlined. Has been w...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Coats
- PRADA brown leather & ivory SHEARLING Peacoat Coat Jacket 42 MBy PradaLocated in Zürich, CH100% authentic Prada long sleeve double breasted coat in brown and off white sheep fur (100%). Comes with a notch collar and two slit pockets on the front. Opens with four alligator ...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Coats
- MARNI 2011 cream lamb shearling fur brown wool sleeves winter coat IT38 XSBy MarniLocated in Hong Kong, NTMARNI 2011 cream lamb shearling fur brown wool sleeves winter coat IT38 XS Reference: CELG/A00058 Brand: Marni Collection: Fall Winter 2011 Material: Fur Color: Beige Pattern: ...Category
2010s Coats
- rare LOUIS VUITTON 2020 Runway yellow detachable tie sleeves parka jacket FR46 SBy Virgil Abloh, Louis VuittonLocated in Hong Kong, NTrare LOUIS VUITTON 2020 Runway yellow detachable tie sleeves parka jacket FR46 S Reference: TGAS/C01496 Brand: Louis Vuitton Designer: Virgil...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Hooded Jackets
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
Martin Margiela: An Intimate Look at the Designer and His Surreal Fashions
In a recently released film, the elusive Belgian designer reflects on his time in the fashion world and his avant-garde creations, which have become coveted collector items.
This Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen Ensemble Is Part Zsa Zsa Gabor, Part ‘Blade Runner’
As Burton steps away from the brand, it’s a fitting time to revisit one of her visionary designs.