1930s Elsa Schiaparelli Silk Bolero Jacket
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1930s Elsa Schiaparelli Silk Bolero Jacket
About the Item
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Shocking. Pink. Lesage. Bolero. Sequins. Form-fitting. Architectural. All of the previous words are frequently paired with Elsa Schiaparelli, all with good cause. She famously relied upon the fanciful creations of the French house of Lesage for singular buttons, sequins, and embroideries; the figure-embracing construction of her designs reflect a reverence for what she referred to as the “architecture” of the human form. The bolero jacket became a signature design. The 1938-39 fall-winter collection was presented on August 4, 1938, and made liberal use of a color combination termed “cameo pink and salt water green”, and we couldn’t put it more poetically. 1930s Saks label - in 1928, Schiaparelli signed a contract to create exclusive designs for Saks Fifth Avenue.
Pink and green striped silk bolero is lavishly embroidered on the front with gold cord, pale gold sequins, emerald scalloped fan-shaped glass beads, clear and amber glass beads, glass pentagons that have some remaining green wash, and pink faceted glass ovals. Jacket is constructed to fit closely to the torso and arms, which have double darts at the elbows; concealed buttons for closure. Front bodice has lined plackets to protect the embroidery. Some wear to surface of fabric does not detract; overall oxidation (fade) in areas of the silk at the most "warm" areas - collar and armscyes. Some discoloration on interior of jacket does not show.
Length 16.25", bust 36", shoulder to shoulder 17", outer sleeve 22.5"
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- Designer:
- Brand:
- Dimensions:Length: 22.5 in (57.15 cm)Marked Size: approx 4 (US)Bust: 36 in (91.44 cm)
- Period:
- Material Notes:Silk, silk thread, gelatin sequins, Lesage glass rhinestones and beads
- Condition:Excellent.
- Seller Location:Bozeman, MT
- Reference Number:Seller: WJ000461stDibs: AU1010101637
Elsa Schiaparelli
From her signature color Shocking Pink to her collaborations with Surrealist artists, the boldly original Elsa Schiaparelli transformed fashion with her haute couture house from the late 1920s to the early ’50s. Experimenting with elements like trompe l’oeil images and colorful visible zippers, the Italian designer instilled a provocative avant-garde artistry in her clothing and accessories, including those created with Salvador Dalí, such as the lobster dress and a hat shaped like a shoe.
Born in Rome, Schiaparelli was a rebellious child who grew up among the city’s intellectual elite. She had a voracious appetite for reading and became interested in ancient cultures, astronomy and world religions. Schiaparelli studied philosophy at the University of Rome, and after publishing a collection of poems on love and sensuality that so mortified her conservative parents that they tried, unsuccessfully, to confine her to a Swiss convent, she left for London.
A quick marriage to Count Wilhelm de Wendt de Kerlor brought her to New York, but it would be in Paris following her divorce that Schiaparelli embraced her artistic passions. She moved to the French capital city in 1922 with her young daughter and happened to meet master couturier Paul Poiret, who loaned the stylish Schiaparelli his clothes, sparking her own fashion interests.
Schiaparelli opened her modest atelier in Paris and debuted her first collection of knitwear in 1927, and later that year, she designed a black-and-white pullover hand-knit wool sweater featuring a trompe l’oeil bowknot that captured the attention of the fashion world. Vogue called it “an artistic masterpiece.” The success led to her moving her house to 21 Place Vendôme in 1935 where thousands of garments were produced each year.
Schiaparelli’s knitwear collections were later accompanied by revolutionary swimsuits and other clothing and accessories. Her inventive designs would include culottes — a radical statement in the 1930s when women still could cause a scandal by wearing pants — as well as printed fabric, such as the 1938 Tears dress with a print designed by Dalí making it appear as if the evening gown had been savagely ripped.
Schiaparelli was among the first designers to use materials like rayon and Lurex as well as explore wrap dresses and transparent raincoats. She also introduced unisex fragrances and brought her artistic partnerships into jewelry, such as bronze brooches made with Alberto Giacometti and fur-lined bracelets with Méret Oppenheim. As she wrote in her 1954 autobiography Shocking Life, women should “dare to be different.”
Despite her acclaim, her shop closed in 1954 after a tumultuous time during World War II. By then, fashion had moved on with Christian Dior's New Look, and the closure of Schiaparelli's business coincided with a comeback mounted by Coco Chanel, her archrival in the early days.
In 2006, Italian businessman Diego Della Valle acquired the brand and its archives, and the Maison Schiaparelli was reopened in 2012, back at 21 Place Vendôme where Schiaparelli's fearless and enduring work began.
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