Martin Margiela runway three piece ensemble, fw 2001
About the Item
- Designer:
- Brand:
- Dimensions:Marked Size: IT 40 - UK 8 - US 4 (EU)
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Condition:condition report upon request.
- Seller Location:London, GB
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU140210212402
Maison Martin Margiela
Belgian designer Martin Margiela (b. 1957) — whose life, career, clothing designs and vintage shoes have become cult-collector obsessions — pushed those who attended his shows outside their comfort zones. In the years following his maison's 1988 debut, he toyed with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today.
Consider the Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels, or his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies, from his Fall/Winter 1997 line. Or his oversize collection for Fall/Winter 2000. In 1992, Margiela told Dépêche Mode magazine, “My clothes appeal to women of a certain mindset rather than of a specific age or physique.”
Born in Genk, Belgium, in 1957, Margiela knew he wanted to be a fashion designer after catching glimpses of Parisian fashion on TV as a child. Although his parents discouraged this career choice as an oddly funny aspiration, Margiela enrolled in the fashion program of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. There, he befriended and graduated a year ahead of the Antwerp Six — the acclaimed group of Belgian fashion designers comprising Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk Van Saene.
Like many of his contemporaries in the 1980s, Margiela understood Paris fashion but felt a deep resonance with the deconstructed beauty espoused by Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garçons. Margiela’s fascination with Japan influenced many of his earliest collections and designs, from a dress pieced together from broken plates to his iconic Tabi boots, inspired by the split-toe Japanese worker’s shoe, which dates back to the 15th century. He decided to launch his own line while working for renowned Paris designer Jean Paul Gaultier.
Margiela, Gaultier has often stated, was his best assistant. Even then, the 2019 film Martin Margiela: In His Own Words suggests, he was acutely aware of the widening gulf between the art and the business of fashion.
Margiela’s debut show was nothing short of spectacular. Set in a packed Café de la Gare in the still-seedy Marais district, it was also scandalous to the Parisian fashion set of the time. The designer tore up the conventions of contemporary couture presentations, most notably having his models, plucked from the streets and wearing ink-blotted Tabis, wend their way through the crowd. The show redefined the concept of the runway in a way that would later inspire such designers as Alexander McQueen and Demna Gvasalia.
While the notoriously private designer retired from fashion in 2009, for many Maison Martin Margiela collectors, his pieces capture the irreverence of the postwar, post-punk late 1980s and ’90s. Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of the cult vintage fashion shop Resurrection, is among those who felt a connection to Margiela’s clothing in the subliminal challenges it posed to the time’s beauty norms.
“Growing up in San Francisco and coming out of the end of punk rock, not wanting to be objectified, not wanting to be seen as a sexual object, not wanting your value to be just because you’re pretty — all those clothes played into all of that,” she says. “It really was a reflection of the kind of world the young people I knew at the time wanted to live in.”
Find vintage Maison Martin Margiela boots, evening dresses, jackets and more on 1stDibs.
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: London, United Kingdom
- Return PolicyThis item cannot be returned.
- Gucci by Tom Ford black croc embossed evening pant suit, ss 2000By Tom Ford for Gucci, GucciLocated in London, GBGucci by Tom Ford black croc embossed flared pant suit with silver diamanté clasp fastening. Spring-Summer 2000Category
1990s Italian Trouser Pant Suits
- Gianni Versace black lycra and mesh pant suit, ss 2003By Gianni VersaceLocated in London, GBGianni Versace black lycra and mesh pant suit with gold tone zip fastenings Spring-Summer 20033Category
Early 2000s Italian Suits, Outfits and Ensembles
- Gianni Versace black striped jacquard wool tunic and pants set, fw 1999By Gianni VersaceLocated in London, GBGianni Versace black striped jacquard wool tunic and pants set. Mid length tunic with high slits on side seams and sleeves. High rise slim fit pants. Fall-Winter 1999Category
1990s Italian Suits, Outfits and Ensembles
- Gucci by Tom Ford black pleated tunic and pants ensemble, ss 1996By Tom Ford for Gucci, GucciLocated in London, GBGucci by Tom Ford black pleated tunic and pants ensemble Spring-Summer 1996Category
1990s Italian Suits, Outfits and Ensembles
- Jeanne Lanvin haute couture green tartan tweed coat and skirt set, c. 1940sBy Jeanne LanvinLocated in London, GBIntroducing an exquisite Jeanne Lanvin 1940s couture green and brown tartan tweed coat and skirt ensemble, a true gem that embodies the timeless elegance...Category
1940s French Suits, Outfits and Ensembles
- Alexander McQueen black silk jumpsuit, ss 2008By Alexander McQueenLocated in London, GBIntroducing a sleek and sophisticated Alexander McQueen tuxedo black silk jumpsuit, a standout piece from the spring-summer 2008 collection. T...Category
Early 2000s Italian Jumpsuits
- GLORIA SACHS Couture 1980s Two Piece PAISLEY FUR Suit Skirt Jacket Wool 10By Gloria SachsLocated in Asheville, NCGloria Sachs, Iconic Suit, Vintage 1980's, 100% Pure Wool (Soft), Made in USA, Union Tag, Fully Lined. Jacket - Quilted, Five Wooden/Clay Round Buttons, Shoulder Pads, Two Pockets, ...Category
1980s Skirt Suits
- Vintage PIERRE CARDIN Paris Couture 1960s Two Piece Ensemble Skirt Jacket 38By Pierre Cardin Paris, Pierre CardinLocated in Asheville, NCPierre Cardin, 100% Wool, 1960's Couture, Made in France, Asymmetrical Layered Design, Two Faceted Buttons, Pleated Skirt, Metal Zipper, Slit on Back of Skirt, Vintage 38 Measuremen...Category
1960s French Skirt Suits
- YVES SAINT LAURENT BY TOM FORD S/S 2002 Runway Sheer Silk Two-PieceBy Yves Saint Laurent, Tom Ford for Yves Saint LaurentLocated in Berlin, BEThis leopard print two piece was the opening look for Yves Saint Laurent’s Spring Summer 2002 Rive Gauche collection by Tom Ford. This elegant two-piece consists of a high waisted silk pencil skirt and a zip up sleeveless silk top in a classic leopard print. This safari inspired set features beautiful details such as the YSL logo on the right side of the front of the bodice, and also embossed on the zipper. The bodice features a deep V neckline, multiple pockets on the front and drawstrings at the sides, the back features a transparent panel...Category
Early 2000s French Twin Sets
- Celine Paris Black Dress and JacketBy CelineLocated in Sharon, CTEnsemble black spaghetti straps short black dress and a long black jacket. Both in the same stretchy horizontal geometric woven design fabric. Dress...Category
1990s French Dress and Coat Ensembles
- Louis Vuitton Runway Collection Fall Winter 2009 Set of 3By Louis VuittonLocated in Palm Beach, FLLouis Vuitton Very wide and thick skirt in wool lined with silk. The skirt with several thick pleats. Exceptional skirt with its very ample cut and its noble materials. Set of 3 piec...Category
Early 2000s French Habits
- F/W 1992 Gianni Versace Bondage Buckle Bodysuit Documented Miss S&MBy Gianni Versace Couture, Gianni VersaceLocated in Concord, NCAn exceptionally rare documented vintage Gianni Versace Couture black and gold bondage buckle bodysuit from the collectible Fall/Winter “Miss S&M” 1992 collection. As seen famously w...Category
1990s Italian Suits, Outfits and Ensembles
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
Martin Margiela: An Intimate Look at the Designer and His Surreal Fashions
In a recently released film, the elusive Belgian designer reflects on his time in the fashion world and his avant-garde creations, which have become coveted collector items.
This Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen Ensemble Is Part Zsa Zsa Gabor, Part ‘Blade Runner’
As Burton steps away from the brand, it’s a fitting time to revisit one of her visionary designs.