Antique 18th Century Chrysolite Chrysoberyl Girandole Earrings Necklace Portugal

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Antique 18th Century Chrysolite Chrysoberyl Girandole Earrings Necklace Portugal

About the Item

Museum-quality rare and important antique 18th century chrysolite chrysoberyl girandole earrings and necklace demi-parure mounted in closed-back silver, Portuguese, circa 1770, fitted in a later Victorian 19th century case. The necklace is designed as a sequence of alternating crossed branches and circular cluster flowerheads, leading to an articulated floral and foliate motif drop suspending a larger pear-shape chrysoberyl cluster. The necklace has been extended at a later date with additional links to ensure a continuous gem-set design throughout; and it is secured with a click-shut clasp and safety catch fitting. The dangle earrings of a girandole design are composed of a similar foliate and floral surmount suspending three articulated pear-shape chrysoberyl cluster drops, secured to reverse with lever-back hoop fittings consistent with the period. These jewels are embellished throughout with circular, oval pear, antique cushion, marquise and calibré cut yellowish-green to greenish-yellow chrysolite chrysoberyl gemstones closed-set in silver. Genuine and original 18th century chrysolite jewels of this style and design are exceedingly rare and highly collectible, even when not originally intended to be worn together. Most of these treasures now belong to museums and the most important private collections, out of reach to the general public. Tested as silver, not marked. Partially restored fittings. Dimensions: 39.5 cm (necklace without drop); 8.5 cm (necklace’s drop); and 4.5 x 3.5 cm (earrings without fitting). Gross weight: 100.07g (necklace); and 20.05g (pair of earrings). For similar or equivalent late 1700s Portuguese jewels, see d'Orey, Leonor, "Five Centuries of Jewellery", permanent exhibition of the National Museum of Ancient Art, Lisbon, Zwemmer Publishers Limited, 1995, pages 70, 72, 73, 76, 77, 80, 84-87 and 92-94. For similar or equivalent late 1700s Portuguese jewels, see “Oceanos - Ourivesaria Luso-Brasileira do Ciclo do Ouro e dos Diamantes N.43", Lisbon, Comissão Nacional para as Comemorações dos Descobrimentos Portugueses, 2000, pages 12, 17, 19, 22, 27, 28, 47, 50 and 181. For similar or equivalent late 1700s Portuguese jewels, see de Vasconcelos e Sousa, D. Gonçalo, "Reais Jóias no Norte de Portugal", permanent exhibition of Palácio da Bolsa, Oporto, Artes Gráficas – Lello & Irmão, November 1995, ALGUMAS PEÇAS PRESENTES NA EXPOSIÇÃO section. For similar or equivalent late 1700s Iberian (Portuguese and Spanish), English and French jewels, see Dawnes, Ginny Redington and Collings, Olivia, "Georgian Jewellery", ACC Art Books, Suffolk, 2018, pages 16, 22, 72, 73, 83, 85, 93, 106-108, 110, 111 and 141. For similar or equivalent late 1700s Portuguese jewels, see Scarisbrick, Diana, “The S. J. Phillips Collection of Jewels of Portugal”, London, Sotheby’s, S.J.Phillips, 2017, pages 16, 36-38, 46-49, 56, 57, 63, 65, 68, 69 and 71. Of all the styles of eighteenth-century earrings, the girandole was probably the most desirable or night wear. Its design was classic: a central bow or floral-shaped cluster ornament from which were suspended three pear-shaped pendants, the middle pendant usually larger than the two flanking it. Dating back to the 17th century, when beautiful examples were made in rose cut diamonds, the girandole remained fashionable for over a hundred years, possibly because the proportion was particularly flattering to the female face. During the 18th century, girandoles were produced all over Europe in every conceivable material, but some of the most fabulous were crafted in Portugal of topaz, chrysoberyl and “Minas Novas” (colorless topaz, quartz and sometimes by association, paste). The fashion for wearing girandole earrings and brooches of girandole form was to continue right up to the 19th century to be gradually superseded by less flamboyant and more practical styles in the 1840s and 1850s. When girandoles finally went out of fashion, many outstanding examples were broken up to be transformed or simply got damaged beyond repair. This should help appreciate the rarity of the present jewel being offered, which survived the test of time, fashion and wear. In the Iberian (Portuguese and Spanish) antiques world, “crisólita” is a very popular gemstone. This late-18th century misnomer in Portugal and Brazil, also referred to as “oriental chrysolite”, corresponds to greenish-yellow chrysoberyl, a mineral that was named after its transparency and color, from the Greek “chrysos” (meaning “gold”) and "berullos" (meaning “transparency”). This gemstone became very popular in Portuguese and Brazilian jewelry on the last third of the 1700s gaining even more importance in the early 1800s, following the discovery of significant quantities of fine gem quality material in Minas Gerais, Brazil, particularly in the Minas Novas district. Chrysoberyl is, however, better known for its color-changing chromium-bearing variety, alexandrite, the mint-green vanadium-bearing variety and, of course, for its cat's eye varieties, sometimes referred to in the trade as cymophane. This item is in good condition, with marks and scratches consistent with general age and wear. Antique, period and vintage pieces, both signed and unsigned, are being offered as worn. Unless otherwise stated, all weights and quality factors have been graded as mounting permitted and using classic gemology and standard gemological equipment. Assessments related to period of manufacture or geographic origin of gemstones are expert opinions and may differ from the assessments provided by other professionals. Colors in the pictures/videos might slightly differ from the colors in real life. For additional information or clarification, please get in touch and our in-house team of expert GIA Graduate Gemologists and certified Registered Appraisers/Valuers will be happy to help.

Metal:
Silver
Stone:
Chrysoberyl
Stone Cut:
Antique Cushion Cut
Weight:
120.12 g
Dimensions:
Height: 3.35 in (85 mm)Width: 0.56 in (14 mm)Length: 15.56 in (395 mm)
Sold As:
Set of 2
Style:
Georgian
Place of Origin:
Portugal
Period:
Late 18th Century
Date of Manufacture:
Circa 1770
Condition:
Additions or alterations made to the original: The necklace has been extended at a later date with additional links to ensure a continuous gem-set design throughout - on the picture of the reverse, it is easy to see where. The earrings had minor restoration work done to the original fittings.
Seller Location:
Lisbon, PT
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU2150211829482