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Antique 18th Century Minas Novas Rock Crystal Topaz Girandole Earrings Brooch

About the Item

Antique 18th century “Minas Novas” rock crystal, colorless topaz and simulated-emerald doblet girandole earrings and pendant/brooch demi-parure, Portuguese, circa 1770. A spectacular antique jewelry set accented with “Minas Novas” rock crystal quartz and colorless topaz and with green doblets imitating the finest Colombian emeralds, mounted in closed-back silver. The dangle earrings of a girandole design are composed of a foliate and floral surmount suspending three articulated pear-shape cluster drops, secured to reverse with lever-back hoop fittings consistent with the period. The similarly-designed large pendant/brooch is embellished with crossed branches and a central flowerhead, suspending three articulated pear-shaped drops, secured to reverse with both a pendant and a later-added brooch fitting. Tested as silver, not marked. Dimensions: 4.2 x 4.8 cm (earrings); 7.1 x 6.5 cm (pendant/brooch). Gross weight: 38.48g (pair of earrings); 35.10g (pendant/brooch). Genuine and original 18th century girandole jewels of this style and design are exceedingly rare and highly collectible, even when not originally intended to be worn together. Most of these treasures now belong to museums and the most important private collections, out of reach to the general public. Of all the styles of eighteenth-century earrings, the girandole was probably the most desirable or night wear. Its design was classic: a central bow or floral-shaped cluster ornament from which were suspended three pear-shaped pendants, the middle pendant usually larger than the two flanking it. Dating back to the 17th century, when beautiful examples were made in rose cut diamonds, the girandole remained fashionable for over a hundred years, possibly because the proportion was particularly flattering to the female face. During the 18th century, girandoles were produced all over Europe in every conceivable material, but some of the most fabulous were crafted in Portugal of topaz, chrysoberyl and “Minas Novas” (colorless topaz, quartz and sometimes by association, paste). The fashion for wearing girandole earrings and brooches of girandole form was to continue right up to the 19th century to be gradually superseded by less flamboyant and more practical styles in the 1840s and 1850s. When girandoles finally went out of fashion, many outstanding examples were broken up to be transformed or simply got damaged beyond repair. This should help appreciate the rarity of the present jewel being offered, which survived the test of time, fashion and wear. For similar or equivalent late 1700s Portuguese jewels, see d'Orey, Leonor, "Five Centuries of Jewellery", permanent exhibition of the National Museum of Ancient Art, Lisbon, Zwemmer Publishers Limited, 1995. For similar or equivalent late 1700s Portuguese jewels, see “Oceanos - Ourivesaria Luso-Brasileira do Ciclo do Ouro e dos Diamantes N.43", Lisbon, Comissão Nacional para as Comemorações dos Descobrimentos Portugueses, 2000. For similar or equivalent late 1700s Portuguese jewels, see de Vasconcelos e Sousa, D. Gonçalo, "Reais Jóias no Norte de Portugal", permanent exhibition of Palácio da Bolsa, Oporto, Artes Gráficas – Lello & Irmão, November 1995, ALGUMAS PEÇAS PRESENTES NA EXPOSIÇÃO section. For similar or equivalent late 1700s Iberian (Portuguese and Spanish), English and French jewels, see Dawnes, Ginny Redington and Collings, Olivia, "Georgian Jewellery", ACC Art Books, Suffolk, 2018. For similar or equivalent late 1700s Portuguese jewels, see Scarisbrick, Diana, “The S. J. Phillips Collection of Jewels of Portugal”, London, Sotheby’s, S.J.Phillips, 2017. This item is in good condition, with marks and scratches consistent with general age and wear. Antique, period and vintage pieces, both signed and unsigned, are being offered as worn. Unless otherwise stated, all weights and quality factors have been graded as mounting permitted and using classic gemology and standard gemological equipment. Assessments related to period of manufacture or geographic origin of gemstones are expert opinions and may differ from the assessments provided by other professionals. Colors in the pictures/videos might slightly differ from the colors in real life. For additional information or clarification, please get in touch and our in-house team of expert GIA Graduate Gemologists and certified Registered Appraisers/Valuers will be happy to help.

Metal:

Silver

Stone:

Crystal,Quartz,Rock Crystal,Topaz

Stone Cut:

Antique Cushion Cut

Weight:

73.58 g

Dimensions:

Width: 2.8 in (71 mm)Length: 2.56 in (65 mm)

Style:

Georgian

Place of Origin:

Portugal

Period:

1770-1779

Date of Manufacture:

Circa 1770

Condition:

Additions or alterations made to the original: The brooch/pendant has a later-added brooch fitting. Wear consistent with age and use. The items can also be sold separately.

Seller Location:

Lisbon, PT

Reference Number:

Seller: 1725/07D and 364/09E1stDibs: LU2150212095712

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