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Alexander Calder Hammered Silver Necklace, circa 1940

About the Item

A Rare Hammered Silver Wire Necklace by Alexander Calder; Ca1940 Exhibited: Alexander Calder: Sculptures and Constructions, Museum of Modern Art, New York,September 1943 - January 1944 for a similar necklace see: Calder Jewelry, pgs 44 & 48 This necklace is similar to the first gold necklace Calder ever made for his wife Louisa. For the collector of modern jewelry, Alexander Calder (1898-1976) is at the vanguard of artists’ jewelry. The works he made ushered in a new style of jewelry making. He set the stage for other painters and sculptors to follow suit. In terms of collecting jewelry by artists, there is only “Before Calder” and “After Calder”. He singlehandedly liberated traditional jewelry from its standard doctrines, the way opening a window brings in fresh air. He didn’t need to declare himself a revolutionary; the jewelry spoke for itself. Each of Calder’s 1,800 unique works redefined line, volume, and the organic, in handmade jewelry. And of course his sense of playfulness permiated this idiom. Today Calder’s jewelry is coveted for its artistic importance, its place in the history of jewelry, and for the unabashed pleasure in wearing something so supremely modernist. He began making jewelry in 1929 typically in brass, silver, or gold wire. Much of the jewelry was made for his wife, Louisa, other pieces for friends and relatives, and very little of it with a thought to commerce. In the 1930’s, Calder’s jewelry began appearing alongside his mobiles in gallery shows, and in 1914 and 1943 his jewelry was part of retrospective exhibitions at the San Francisco Museum of Art and New York’s Museum of Modern Art, respectively. This silver necklace followed shortly after on he made for his wife Luisa in 1937. In strict jewelry vocabulary, the necklace would be considered a fringe, the individual flattened coils fanning outward when worn. But in Calder’s distinctly non-doctrinaire universe, the hammered gold becomes a wire wreath or feathers – dynamic and moving, similar to his sculptures en plein air.
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