Skip to main content
Want more images or videos?
Request additional images or videos from the seller
1 of 11

MiriamHaskell 1926-1929 FrankHess Glass Crystal Shell Pearl Coral Silver Sautoir

About the Item

In the late 1920s during the Art-Deco period, this Miriam Haskell white mostly glass-beaded sautoir was created in New York City by her first designer Frank Hess. This uniquely hand-woven necklace features a Baroque-style pendant with a luminous sea-shell crown, pearls and coral, and iridescent clear-glass microbeads. Additionally, both edges of the flat-laying white-square-beaded necklace are spiked with sparkling small faceted crystals that are each capped with a pearl-color glass end-bead, which was Hess' signature way of intricately decorating wired or strung jewelry. Along with the distinct twisted-silver toggle necklace fasteners, the glass beads were handcrafted in France by Parisian Louis Rousselet, who was a parurier to Gabriel "Coco" Chanel since the 1920s when she commissioned ensembles from his workshop for her couture clothing. Only Rousselet could have produced these French-style handmade miniature beads that are uniquely lampworked in a minimal way, which enable the layered, textural, reflective, intricate and overflowing designs of Hess to attract most of the attention. Another design signature of Hess in this sautoir is the asymmetric pendant surrounded by en-tremblant strands of microbeads that seem to move in water like tentacles. Throughout his decades as head designer for Haskle, Hess repeatedly made jewelry with seashell, oyster and coral elements, while this seems to have been among his earliest using these motifs and so is priced accordingly. The necklace, without a metal backing on the pendant, was made prior to the 1930s. During that decade, Hess added a solid plate to hide and better protect delicate or non-decorative attachments like string or wire. No Haskell jewelry was signed before 1947. Fortunately, this much-earlier sautoir is extraordinarily characteristic of Hess motifs and design, along with its identifiable Parisian-produced materials dating to the 1920s. Like this necklace, some of the earliest costume-jewelry by Haskle-Hess feature the most intricate designs and include the tiniest glass beads among those that they used while working together for decades.
More From This SellerView All
  • Couture 1930s ElsaSchiaparelliStyle Pink FauxRubyGoldGlassBeads Tassel Sautoir
    Located in Chicago, IL
    Long before Barbie, Elsa Schiaparelli famously embraced "shocking pink" for her Surrealist-aesthetic couture clothing and handcrafted costume jewelry, which she commissioned from Parisian paruriers beginning in the late 1920s--when some of the most expensive jewels were fuchsia Burmese rubies. In this antique glass-beaded sautoir tassel-necklace, 37 "shocking pink" balls are each delicately caged like hot-air balloons by seven textural strands of faux-pearl-and-gold seed beads. These spherical stations are spaced by lustrous white medium-size faux pearls, ending in a four-strand seed-bead tassel that cages four of the fuchsia faux pearls. The beads are strung on bright magenta silk cord without a clasp. Sautoirs were an essential element of flapper style since Schiaparelli's couture-mentor Paul Poiret changed the silhouette of clothing in the 1920s, while the long necklaces remained popular until wartime 1939. To compete with her rival couturier Gabriel "Coco" Chanel, Schiaparelli (1890-1973) relied on the same French glassmakers, Maison Gripoix and Louis Rousselet--the masters of faux pearls at the time who added organic-ingredient coatings to their handmade glass beads. Either glass workshop that was established by the 1920s could have been commissioned to make the progressive hot-pink pearls for this unsigned necklace that dates to the Art Deco period. The design of this highly-textural tri-color sautoir featuring fuchsia spheres particularly suits the style of one of Schiaparelli's most frequent paruriers through the 1930s, Jean Clement. Some of his relevant unsigned work for Schiaparelli is in museum collections like The Met, including highly-textural tri-color sphere-decorated buttons/brooches and a fuchsia-toned metal-rosebud bead necklace. After Schiaparelli had become associated with fuchsia, she made particularly prolific use of this bright magenta in the late 1930s. In her demi-couture collections such as "Circus" and "Comedia del' Arte" (see our 3 photos), fuchsia jackets are adorned with similar colorful spherical glass beads among embroidered appliques and animal/clown brooches, as well as whimsical painted-ceramic buttons...
    Category

    Vintage 1930s French Art Deco Pendant Necklaces

    Materials

    Pearl, Gold

  • MiriamHaskell Late1920s Hess SignatureGrapeClusterPendant GlassPearl Necklace
    By Frank Hess for Miriam Haskell
    Located in Chicago, IL
    Featuring the earliest white-swirled glass and enameled faux-pearl round beads handcrafted by Parisian lampwork-master Louis Rousselet for American entrepreneur Miriam Haskell and he...
    Category

    Vintage 1920s American Baroque Revival Beaded Necklaces

    Materials

    Pearl, Silver

  • Antique ArtNouveau European FauxLampwork Glass Flora CherryBlossom Long Necklace
    Located in Chicago, IL
    With a silver clasp that could be as old as the Victorian period and in an Art-Nouveau style with pale intricate flora motifs, this antique long glass necklace features lampwork-like...
    Category

    Vintage 1920s Austrian Art Nouveau Beaded Necklaces

    Materials

    Silver

  • Antique HandPressedGlass European GoldFiligreeCapped Beaded Heavy Necklace
    Located in Chicago, IL
    This antique rare hand-pressed-glass necklace features semi-translucent grape-green large beads that are capped with gilt-brass filigree. Based on the combination of bead seams, spring-ring clasp, and metal findings on the unmarked faux Chinese-jade necklace, it dates to the late Victorian period most likely from Western Europe. Around WWI, hand presses, which stamped molten glass into a mold to create a bead with a hole and a seam, were often used to produce costume jewelry as a cottage industry in Germany and the Czech region. This was while there was a lack of factory machine presses and finishing tumblers that used sand to polish out the seam lines. Another reason that the cloudy green beads can be identified as atypically hand-pressed is that they are more opaque and therefore harder and less prone to breaking during formation than fully-translucent glass, which was better suited for automated-machine pressing. Also the green beads are an unusual swirled color including white, which suggests that their production was more limited than machine-pressing would enable. Without the bead-seams, this necklace could be mistaken for one by Coco Chanel. Her 1920s couture...
    Category

    Early 20th Century German Late Victorian Beaded Necklaces

    Materials

    Gold, Brass, Gilt Metal

  • MiriamHaskell 1930s Hess TorsadeSet GiltFiligreeCap FauxPearls Earrings & Choker
    By Frank Hess for Miriam Haskell
    Located in Chicago, IL
    During the Art Deco period, Miriam Haskell's first designer Frank Hess designed this blue-and-white glass-beaded hand-sewn torsade set of dangle earrings and a choker necklace, whose knotted string is capped with their characteristic Russian-gilt brass flora filigree. Coinciding with the American Great Depression, to offer some less expensive costume jewelry than her initial ready-to-wear styles featuring Parisian hand-crafted materials found in French couture, Haskell reduced the cost of some of her findings by locally sourcing stamped metal and incorporating hand-pressed glass beads from Germany and Czechoslovakia. With a loop, the line from hand pressing the glass can only be found on the blue beads, while the white ones are coated in an organic material like authentic French faux pearls. The ends of the textured cords that string the beaded set were frayed to form a fuzzy opaque dome that hides the knots attached to the filigree caps. No Haskell jewelry was signed before 1947. The unsigned necklace...
    Category

    Vintage 1930s American Art Deco Beaded Necklaces

    Materials

    Brass, Gilt Metal, Yellow Gold

  • Trifari AlfredPhilippe ArtDeco Jade&GoldGlass MicroBead 20Strand Necklace
    By Alfred Philippe for Trifari
    Located in Chicago, IL
    Indicating that French-born Alfred Philippe designed this bicolor glass-beaded necklace between 1936 and 1955, the crown-topped Trifari signature appears without a U.S.-copyright sym...
    Category

    Mid-20th Century American Art Deco Multi-Strand Necklaces

    Materials

    Jade, Gold, Yellow Gold, Base Metal, Gold Plate

You May Also Like
  • Faceted Quartz Heart Pendant and Beaded Necklace in 14 Karat Yellow Gold
    Located in Milford, DE
    An elegant removeable pendant necklace, featuring a faceted quartz heart pendant on a 14K yellow gold chain, accented with faceted smoky brown quartz...
    Category

    20th Century Pendant Necklaces

    Materials

    Quartz, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold

  • Hand Carved Black Obsidian Pendant with White Sapphires
    By Sabrina Balsky Jewelry
    Located in New York, NY
    One of a Kind Hand Carved Black Obsidian Pendant reminiscent of a Scarab, surrounded by beautiful clean White 3mm Sapphires. Bold statement piece. S...
    Category

    2010s American Artisan Pendant Necklaces

    Materials

    Freshwater Pearl, Sterling Silver

  • Coral Necklace with Agate Cameo and Agate Balls, Biedermeier
    Located in Berlin, DE
    Coral necklace with agate mixture and agate balls This Biedermeier necklace from approx. 1850 is provided with an artfully cut agate pendant. Thi...
    Category

    Antique Early 19th Century Italian Georgian Beaded Necklaces

    Materials

    Agate, Coral

  • Peacock Necklace in 18 Karat Gold, Emeralds, Blue Sapphires and Diamonds
    By Estaa
    Located in Mumbai, IN
    “The Peacock Necklace“
 7.78 carats of diamonds, 97.61 carats of Emeralds, and 548.89 carats of Blue Sapphires set in 18kt Gold.
 *Free Shipping Wo...
    Category

    2010s Indian Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

    Materials

    Diamond, Emerald, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold

  • Jade Pendant Studded with Nine Lucky Gems Strung in a Tanzanite Beads Necklace
    By Jay Rawat
    Located in Jaipur, IN
    A beautiful Jade pendant studded with nine lucky gems strung in a row of graduating Tanzanite beads. The Nine Lucky Gems are called the "Nav Ratan" in Hindi....
    Category

    21st Century and Contemporary Indian Art Deco Beaded Necklaces

    Materials

    Coral, Diamond, Emerald, Jade, Pearl, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Yellow Sapphi...

  • Refined Pearl Necklace
    Located in Sežana, SI
    Refined pearl necklace, each separated by a small yellow gold disc. The centerpiece bears a "cabochon" cut sapphire, surrounded by "brilliant" and "rectangular" cut diamonds. Handcra...
    Category

    Early 2000s Italian Contemporary Pendant Necklaces

    Materials

    Diamond, Pearl, Sapphire, 18k Gold

Recently Viewed

View All