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Erte - Romain de TirtoffPetit Chinois by Erté1921
1921
About the Item
Erté (Romain de Tirtoff)
1892-1990 | Russian-French
Petit Chinois
Signed “Erté”(lower right)
Inscribed "No. 19" (en verso)
Gouache on paper
This costume was designed for a character from Don Juan for a performance at L'Apollo Théâtre, a historic music hall that was located at 20 rue de Clinchy in Paris’ 9th arrondissement. The play Don Juan, penned by Molière in 1665, is a five-act comedy that draws upon the Spanish legend of Don Juan in Tenorio. The central character, Don Juan, is a libertine who seduces women purely for the thrill of romantic conquest, only to abandon them without a second thought. Adding complexity to his character is his atheism, a theme that gains importance at the end of the play when Don Juan feigns a spiritual awakening, only to die with shame.
Adorned in resplendent traditional Chinese garments, the character is a striking figure. His trousers, a vivid shade of fuchsia, are complemented by an intricately designed coat featuring a palette of black, fuchsia, yellow, and grey, embellished with elaborate floral motifs. In one hand, he holds aloft a yellow fan or placard, a hue that harmonizes with the sash encircling his waist. His visage is further distinguished by a lengthy, braided beard and an ornate hairpiece.
The artist, Russian-French visionary Romain de Tirtoff (1892-1990), popularly known as Erté, began his artistic journey in the culturally rich city of St. Petersburg, where he developed an early fondness for ballet and theatrical performances. He moved to Paris in 1912 to study architecture, and quickly found his creative niche in crafting fantastical costumes for the city’s bustling nightlife. Erté‘s expertise, refined under the guidance of the famed Paul Poiret, captured the attention of Harper’s Bazaar, marking the beginning of a significant partnership that spanned from 1915 to 1936. The artist also designed sets for notable cinematic masterpieces including Ben Hur and La Bohème, and created sets and costumes for cabarets, operas and other performances at the Folies-Bergères, Bal Tabarin, the Théâtre du Bataclan and Le Casino de Paris. Often remembered as the “Father of Art Deco,” Erté was a trailblazer whose colorful creations shaped the groundbreaking Art Deco era more than any other, leaving an indelible mark on the history of art and design. His artworks reside in prestigious museum collections worldwide, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.
Painted 1921
Paper: 11 1/4“ high x 5 wide
Frame: 17 1/2“ high x 11 1/2” wide x 5/8" deep
Exhibitions:
M.S. Rau, New Orleans, Erté and the Era of Art Deco, October 14, 2023 - January 3, 2024
Provenance:
Private collection, Paris
M.S. Rau, New Orleans
- Creator:Erte - Romain de Tirtoff (1892 - 1990, Russian)
- Creation Year:1921
- Dimensions:Height: 17.5 in (44.45 cm)Width: 11.5 in (29.21 cm)Depth: 0.625 in (1.59 cm)
- Medium:
- Movement & Style:
- Period:
- Condition:
- Gallery Location:New Orleans, LA
- Reference Number:
Erte - Romain de Tirtoff
Erté, Romain de Tirtoff, (1892–1990) was a Russian-born French artist and designer who is equally famous for his elegant fashion designs and his artwork, both of which capture the art deco period in which he worked. Diversely talented, Erté was born in Saint Petersburg to a distinguished family with roots tracing back to 1548. After moving to Paris, he secured his first substantial contract with Harper's Bazaar magazine, and thus launched an illustrious career that included designing costumes and stage sets. Between 1915–1937, Erte designed over 200 covers for Harper's Bazaar, and his illustrations would also appear in such publications as Illustrated London News, Cosmopolitan, Ladies' Home Journal, and Vogue. Erté flourished and was renowned in an array of fields, including fashion, jewelry, graphic arts, costume and set design for film, theater, and opera, and interior decor.
After designing apparel for the French dancer Gaby Deslys, Erté went on to design costumes, program designs, and sets which were featured in the Ziegfeld Follies of 1923, many productions of the Folies Bergère, and George White's Scandals. On Broadway, the celebrated French chanteuse Irène Bordoni wore Erté's designs. His delicate figures and sophisticated, glamorous designs are instantly recognizable, and his ideas and art still influence fashion into the 21st century.
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