Gaultier Crane

Endeavoring to tear down gender stereotypes and sartorial norms on the catwalk, making underwear outerwear, putting men in skirts and models of all shapes and sizes on the runway, Jean Paul Gaultier has created wildly provocative, transformational designs for day dresses, gowns, tops and other garments that draw on numerous influences and boldly merge haute couture with street sensibility.

An only child raised in the suburbs of Paris, Gaultier didn’t have a formal fashion education. But he loved to sketch and was drawn to clothing, citing the corsets in his maternal grandmother’s closet as having a formative impact on his creative direction. He’s said that some of his earliest fashion work was for his teddy bear, and later he would send his sketches to designers he revered, including Pierre Cardin.

Gaultier began his career in 1970 as an assistant to Cardin, who admired the sketches the 18-year-old had sent for his appraisal. After Gaultier had his first runway show in 1976, featuring unconventional statements like pairing motorcycle jackets with ballerina skirts, it didn’t take long for his star to rise.

Gaultier's playful but exquisitely crafted reimaginings of classic Parisian styles — the striped mariner shirt, the trench coat — soon became recurring themes of his eponymous house, which he founded with his life partner and business associate Francis Menuge in 1982.

“He was absolutely peerless for the longest time in the late ’80s and early ’90s,” fashion editor Tim Blanks told the New York Times. This was the period of Gaultier’s most iconic designs.

In 1984, Gaultier’s “Boy Toy” collection challenged men’s fashion with striped shirts and skirts — and sold around 3,000 of them. He was hailed for spectacle-laden runway shows and superb tailoring. Gaultier began to work with Madonna during the late 1980s, and, at the pop star’s request, he designed the costumes for her 1990 “Blond Ambition” tour. Her pink corset became a cultural touchstone of the era.

Gaultier continued to expand his brand. There were the colorful all-over graphic prints in the sheer stretch-tulle fabric of his Soleil line — which have gained fans in millennials seeking the authentic, easy style of 1990s fashion — and he debuted his first couture collection in 1997. Gaultier created costumes for film and stage and was nominated for a César Award for Best Costume Design for The City of Lost Children (1995) and then a second for Luc Besson’s The Fifth Element (1997).

From 2003 to 2010, Gaultier was the creative director for Hermès. The first international exhibition of his work, “The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk,” debuted in 2011 at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts and toured to cities including Stockholm, New York City, Dallas and London. Vintage Gaultier Birkin bags are unsurprisingly sought-after collectibles, and the So Black collection — a line that included the So Black Birkin, which featured black PVD-coated hardware — was among his last works for the brand before his departure.

Gaultier presented his last ready-to-wear collection in 2014 and in 2020 stepped down from his couture line, ending his boundary-pushing, industry-shaping reign with a raucous show of more than 230 outfits formed from fragments of collections from across his 50-year career.

One of fashion’s enfants terribles, Gaultier has never sought out pretty for pretty’s sake. Instead, he has challenged the traditional ideals of beauty. Today, the designer's vintage clothing designs — experimental undergarments cut from lace and suede, leather-trimmed evening dresses and jackets of denim, plastic or striped jersey — are as punk as they are high fashion.

Find vintage Jean Paul Gaultier dresses, skirts, jeans and accessories today on 1stDibs.

While everyone has a different go-to style of vintage and designer shirt in the closet, the goal is the same: a fit that emphasizes your favorite features, looks great and favors your skin tone. A good shirt is going to make you feel good, regardless of your shape or size.

The shirt is the quiet powerhouse of any outfit. A neutral top is likely the most versatile garment in your wardrobe. A white T-shirt is an iconic creation that remains modern even today, a black button-down can be paired with everything and that gray long sleeve is going to dazzle with dark-wash denim jeans.

There are certain universal things to keep in mind when shopping for your next shirt. If you’re building out your wardrobe, for example, it wouldn’t hurt to secure some staples in the aforementioned neutral category. Any shade of gray, beige or cream, navy blue, black, white — there is nothing more adaptable than shirts in these colors. All of these colors pair swimmingly with one another, which makes it easy to put together an outfit, and you can always add a splash of color by way of a red knit tie to your gray pants, navy suit jacket and white button-down shirt ensemble. For a men’s dress shirt, specifically, you’ll want it to be long enough to tuck into your pants, or leave untucked, depending on the occasion, but it should not bunch at the waist if you decide to go with the former.

Combining the right elements and adding the perfect finishing touch is just as important as getting the right fit. The proper pants and jacket elevate even the simplest of T-shirts. Sometimes success just means donning a beautifully constructed bomber jacket and a perfect fitting pair of jeans. Fashion and clothing don’t have to be complicated.

The same factors apply generally to women’s shirts and women’s dress shirts too. Hem-wise, a woman’s dress shirt should be long enough to comfortably wear untucked or tucked in, and you shouldn’t have a gaping space between your buttons. In sum, your shirt should make you feel like a boss. Is it comfortable? Do you have freedom of movement throughout the day? Does it make you feel great regardless of your size or shape? If so, it’s a keeper.

At 1stDibs, find exciting vintage shirts from prominent luxury fashion houses, such as Yves Saint Laurent, Versace and Chanel, as well as the perfect handbags and accessories to complete your look. Our wide range of men’s and women’s shirts offers a little something for everyone: There are polos, T-shirts, button-downs, blouses, novelty shirts and more. Browse an extensive collection of vintage 20th-century pieces and iconic graphic tees too.