Hermes Gold 28 Togo Kelly Retourne Tan Gold Shoulder Bag Classic U Stamp, 2022
About the Item
- Designer:
- Brand:
- Design:
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Condition:
- Seller Location:New York, NY
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU130215615282
Kelly Bag
In 1837, Thierry Hermès (1801–78) founded his eponymous luxury goods company in Paris as a saddle manufacturer, serving the era’s carriage trade. In 1880, under the stewardship of Thierry's son Émile-Charles, fine riding gear was added to its offerings to complement the saddles. The company expanded their workshops to design handbags nearly half a century later. The Kelly bag, originally introduced as the Sac à dépêches (“the dispatch bag”) in 1935, was created by Robert Dumas, son-in-law to Thierry's grandson Émile-Maurice Hermès.
Designed for independent women who wanted a piece that was both luxurious and efficient, the Kelly bag has a trapezoid shape, two triangular gussets, a sculpted flap and handle. To this day, the understated bag comprises 36 individual leather pieces, 16 studs and a signature padlock and leather key cover, with three layers of leather at the base to ensure the bag can stand upright. Each Kelly bag takes between 18 and 25 hours to produce, and its 680 hand stitches owe solely to one Hermès artisan.
The Kelly bag earned its name during preproduction on Alfred Hitchcock’s 1955 film, To Catch a Thief. Costume designer Edith Head sourced products from Hermès to outfit actress Grace Kelly, who fell in love with the Sac à Dépêches and continued to carry it long after the movie wrapped. Months after marrying Prince Rainier III of Monaco in 1956, she was spotted carrying a brown pigskin Sac to shield her pregnancy from the paparazzi. And while the oft-repeated claim that Kelly and her bag appeared on a Life magazine cover isn’t true, photography of the actress and her cherished accessory began to appear everywhere at the time, and the bag’s profile suddenly skyrocketed.
In 1977 Hermès officially changed the item’s name to the Kelly bag. Less than a decade later, Hermès introduced another handbag to its line, also named after a style symbol, the Birkin bag. The Paris-based British actress Jane Birkin sat next to Hermès CEO Jean-Louis Dumas — Robert's son — on an Air France flight. He noticed her overflowing handbag, and she told him she longed for “a handbag that is bigger than the Kelly but smaller than Serge’s suitcase,” in reference to her then-romantic partner, the French musician Serge Gainsbourg. The Birkin bag was created in 1984, joining the Kelly in Hermès’ permanent collection.
Hermès
For Hermès, what began as a maker of leather equestrian goods for European noblemen would eventually grow into one of the most storied fashion labels in the world. In 1837, German-born French entrepreneur Thierry Hermès opened a saddle and harness purveyor in Paris. Gradually, the house extended into accessories and luggage for its riders, and today, in paying homage to its origins, the family-run luxury brand resurfaces horse motifs in everything from clothing and modernist jewelry to pillows and handbags.
The first top-handled bag ever produced by Hermès was the Haut à courroies, which made its debut in 1892. A tall bag secured with a folded leather flap (fastened with bridle-inspired straps), it was designed to transport riding boots and a harness. As the world made the switch from horse to automobile, the bag adapted, becoming a multifunctional travel satchel instead of a designated saddlebag. Today, 120 years later, the HAC remains in Hermès’s line — and its distinctive flap and clasping straps have laid the groundwork for some of the house’s other iconic bags.
In the 1930s, Robert Dumas (son-in-law to Émile-Maurice Hermès, Thierry’s grandson) designed a smaller, trapezoidal take on the flap bag with a handle and two side straps. Later, actress Grace Kelly, then engaged to Prince Rainier of Monaco, is said to have used one of these bags to conceal her pregnancy during the 1950s. Because she was photographed constantly, the coverage catapulted her handbag to international popularity. In 1977, Hermès officially renamed the model for her, and the Kelly bag was born. Each Kelly bag takes between 18 and 25 hours to produce, and its 680 hand stitches owe solely to one Hermès artisan.
Robert Dumas was also responsible for another one of the brand’s most iconic offerings: the launch of its first silk scarf on the occasion of Hermès’s 100th anniversary in 1937. Based on a woodblock designed by Dumas and printed on Chinese silk, the accessory was an immediate hit.
Today, vintage Hermès scarves, typically adorned in rich colors and elaborate patterns, serve many functions, just as they did back then. Well-heeled women wear it on their heads, around their necks and, in a genius piece of cross-promotion, tied to the straps of their Hermès bags. Kelly even once used one as a sling for her broken arm.
In 1981, Robert Dumas’s son Jean-Louis Dumas, then Hermès chairman, found himself sitting next to French actress and musician Jane Birkin on a plane, where she was complaining about finding a suitable carryall for the necessary accoutrements of motherhood. After the two travelers were properly introduced, Birkin helped design Jean-Louis’s most famous contribution to the Hermès canon: the Birkin bag, a roomy, square catchall with the HAC’s trademark leather flap top and the addition of a lock and key. Owing to the brand’s legendary commitment to deft, handcrafted construction, the Birkin is an investment that is coveted by collectors everywhere.
While the Kelly and Birkin may be standouts, gracing the arms of everyone from royal heiresses to hip-hop stars in the past few decades, the handbags are but a small part of Hermès’s fashion offerings. Since the 1920s, the brand has produced some of the most desirable leather goods in the world. There’s the Constance bag, a favorite of Jacqueline Kennedy, the recently relaunched 1970s-era Evelyne and, on the vintage market, a slew of designs dating back to the 1920s.
Good design never goes out of style. Find a variety of vintage Hermès handbags, day dresses, shoes and more on 1stDibs.
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: New York, NY
- Return PolicyThis item cannot be returned.
- Hermes Kelly 25 Gold Bi-Color Jaune Ambre Verso Shoulder Bag Bag Z Stamp, 2021By HermèsLocated in New York, NYHermes Kelly 25 Gold Bi-Color Jaune Ambre Verso Shoulder Bag Bag Z Stamp, 2021 A rare and coveted Kelly 25cm combining two of Hermes' best colors,...Category
21st Century and Contemporary French Top Handle Bags
- Hermes Gold Kelly 25cm Tan Sellier Shoulder Bag NEW IN BOXBy HermèsLocated in New York, NYHermes Gold Kelly 25cm Tan Sellier Shoulder Bag The most wanted bag and the only one you need this spring summer! Brand New in Box. Store Fresh. Pr...Category
21st Century and Contemporary French Top Handle Bags
- Hermes Kelly 25 Etain Sellier Shoulder Bag Tin Grey Z Stamp, 2021By HermèsLocated in New York, NYHermes Kelly 25 Etain Sellier Shoulder Bag Tin Grey Z Stamp, 2021 The ultimate modern chic 25cm Kelly in the best neutral ever! Brand New in Box. Store ...Category
21st Century and Contemporary French Top Handle Bags
- Hermes Birkin 25cm Etain Gold Hardware Grey BagBy HermèsLocated in New York, NYHermes Birkin 25cm Etain Tin Grey Gold Hardware Bag Brand New in Box. Store fresh. Pristine Condition (with plastic on hardware) Perfect gift!...Category
21st Century and Contemporary French Top Handle Bags
- Hermes Birkin 30cm Gris Perle Togo Bag Gold Hardware Pearl GrayBy HermèsLocated in New York, NYChicjoy is pleased to present this Hermes Birkin 30cm Gris Perle Togo Bag Gold Hardware Brand New in Box in Store Fresh, Pristine Condition (with plastic on hardware) Perfect Gift! Coming with keys, lock, clochette, a sleeper for the bag, rain protector, and orange Hermes box. Gris Perle is the perfect and elegant neutral Birkin for year-round wear. Superbly chic light "Pearl Gray" is one of the most coveted neutrals in Hermes history. So stunning with luxurious gold hardware and light beige resin. In the ideal 30cm size that transitions perfectly from day into evening. In Togo, the most desired leather prized for its anti-scratch and stain properties. Gris Perle is pure understated sophistication! This stunning pale neutral is magnificent paired with neutrals, as well as with every pop color in your wardrobe. Don't miss this bag- it will turn heads everywhere you go! Gold Breloque Charm...Category
21st Century and Contemporary French Top Handle Bags
- Hermes Birkin 30cm Black Togo Palladium Hardware Bag U Stamp, 2022By HermèsLocated in New York, NYHermes Birkin 30cm Black Togo Palladium Hardware Bag U Stamp, 2022 Just purchased from Hermes store; bag bears new 2022 interior U Stamp. Brand New in Box. Store Fresh. Pristine Condition (with plastic on hardware) Perfect gift! Comes with keys, lock, clochette, a sleeper for the bag, rain protector, and Hermes box. A superb statement Birkin for the fashionista! If you are going to get only one Birkin, this is the perfect one to get. Black with fresh palladium hardware is so versatile and effortlessly chic. This perfect 30cm size fits a ton, and takes you from jeans and sneakers to dresses and heels. The scratch-resistant Togo on this bag is very nice and firm. Do not miss out- you will adore this chic investment Birkin for life! Silver Breloque Charm...Category
21st Century and Contemporary French Top Handle Bags
- Ralph Lauren Vintage Cream Canvas Tan Leather Rickey BagBy Ralph LaurenLocated in Philadelphia, PARalph Lauren Vintage Cream Canvas Tan Leather Rickey Bag in fair condition. Cream canvas body surrounded by tan leather edges, corners, top flap and handle. Removable adjustable ma...Category
1990s Top Handle Bags
- Fendi Peekaboo Mini Floral Canvas Satchel BagLocated in Philadelphia, PAFendi Peekaboo Mini Floral Canvas Satchel Bag in new unused condition. Beige canvas body with multi color embroidered sequin flowers and silver stu...Category
2010s Top Handle Bags
- RARE Chanel Nude Lambskin Hula Hoop BagBy ChanelLocated in Philadelphia, PAChanel Nude Lambskin Hula Hoop Bag in excellent condition. Rare hula hoop design from the 2012 spring runway. Nude quilted lambskin body with black lambskin d...Category
2010s Top Handle Bags
- Fendi Natural Python Snakeskin Two-Way HandbagBy FendiLocated in Philadelphia, PAFABULOUS FENDI natural snakeskin double compartment top handle bag in excellent condition. Natural python snakeskin exterior trimmed with gold hardware. Two seperate storage areas for carrying all your belongings safe and securely. Top compartment opens with a lifting logo clasp closure that reveals a suede lined interior that holds 1 zippered side pocket. The bottom compartment opens via two combination sliding locks that show a beige suede lined interior with removable cosmetic mirror...Category
21st Century and Contemporary Italian Top Handle Bags
- Limited Edition Judith Leiber Rachel Zoe Python Medusa BagBy Judith LeiberLocated in Philadelphia, PALimited Edition Judith Leiber Rachel Zoe Python Medusa Bag in very good condition. Purple python exterior trimmed with maroon leather, matte gold hardware a...Category
Early 2000s Top Handle Bags
- Vintage Judith Leiber Pink Gold Python Snakeskin 007 James Bond BagBy Judith LeiberLocated in Philadelphia, PAJudith Leiber Golden Python Snakeskin 007 James Bond Bag in very good condition. golden metallic python with peachy pink shades. Gold hardware throughou...Category
1980s Top Handle Bags
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
This Iconic Hermès Bag Is Made from an Unexpected Material: Wood
From a house that specializes in covetable objects, this version of the Kelly is the rarest of finds.
A Short History of the World’s Most Iconic Designs
Of the million-plus items on 1stdibs, some seem to have transcended time, looking as fresh today as when they were first produced. The pieces highlighted on our new Iconic Designs page stand out for longevity, functionality and quality of design and manufacture — just the tonic for the present unsettled moment.