Boucheron Paris Vintage 1940s Diamond & Lapis Lazuli Gold Feather Flower Brooch

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Boucheron Paris Vintage 1940s Diamond & Lapis Lazuli Gold Feather Flower Brooch

About the Item

The glamorous vintage brooch at hand takes us back to the 1940s, and to Paris. Unlike other capitals of Europe, Paris had not stopped its jewellery production even in times of war. Important works of the “haute joaillerie” were still being produced by the big names if jewellery: and by way of lavish designs and colourful materials, one was made to forget the constraints and worries of wartime. The clip brooch at hand is one such piece. It is made in the shape of a flower, combined with an airy, elegantly curved feather. The flower's golden petals surround stamina of diamonds and lapis lazuli, and we are made to see a likeness in the shape and curl of the petals and feather. The piece bears the mark of the grand jewellery house Boucheron, Paris. Since it was founded in 1858 by Frédéric Boucheron, the maison has been known especially for its use of gold. Even though Boucheron has produced beautiful pieces made of large, coloured gemstones, the use of gold has always been a focal point of the house's characteristic designs. This brooch, too, makes gold the centre of attention: large planes of the warm-toned material, glossy and polished, shape our impression of the piece. The blue colour of the lapis lazuli and the gleaming accents of the diamonds serve mainly to intensify the gold's colour. How could one not think of Paris, of the golden hues of the city, characterised by the century-long use of sandstone? Comparable floral brooches dating to the time can be found in David Bennet und Daniela Mascetti: Understanding Jewellery, Woodbridge 2010, pp. 381-386. MATERIALS 16 diamonds, 8/8 cut, approx. 0,16 ct altogether, Wesselton/H, si-pi 16 beads made of lapis lazuli, diameter approx. 5,0 mm / 0,2 in each Gold 750/000, resp. 18 karat Diamond settings of platinum HALLMARKS “Boucheron Paris” as well as Parisian eagle head standard mark, so-called “petite garantie”, for 18 karat gold, combined with rhino mark for composite pieces (the rhino mark vouches for the validity of the standard mark throughout all elements of the brooch) CERTIFICATE Delivery with certificate.

Creator:
Boucheron
Metal:
18k Gold,Platinum
Stone:
Diamond,Lapis Lazuli
Stone Cut:
Single Cut
Weight:
30.8 g
Dimensions:
Width: 2.37 in (60 mm)Length: 3.08 in (78 mm)
Style:
Retro
Place of Origin:
France
Period:
1940-1949
Date of Manufacture:
1940s
Condition:
Very good condition, the stem of the feather minimally bumped on the back.
Seller Location:
Berlin, DE
Reference Number:
Seller: 18-32501stDibs: LU156426581631

Shop All Boucheron

Boucheron

As the oldest high-end jewelry boutique on the legendary Place Vendôme in Paris, dating to 1893, Boucheron stands for history, sensuality and avant-garde style. The French fine jewelry house has created iconic rings, necklaces and other adornments over its more than 160-year history for royalty like the Russian imperial family, the Maharaja of Patiala and Elizabeth, the Queen Mother. It has also received popular acclaim for its modern designs and playful motifs such as serpents and cats.

Since its founding in 1858 by Frédéric Boucheron with a boutique at the Palais Royal arcades, the maison has sought to create unforgettably unique pieces, push the boundaries of innovations in jewelry design and celebrate the opulence of gold. Many of its pieces are sculpted in gold by expert goldsmiths so that the material becomes a design element in its own right.

At its best, Edwardian jewelry was all about the exquisite diamond, platinum and pearl creations made by such famous names as Cartier and Boucheron. Later, Frédéric’s son Louis became especially interested in the Art Deco style as well as accessories like cigarette holders, bags and belts.

Boucheron is most famously known for its sources of inspiration: nature, animals and the earth. Its iconic Serpent Bohème collection, introduced in 1968, references the curves and scales of the animal with pear-shaped motifs and coiled accents adorned with diamonds and other precious stones like turquoise, lapis lazuli and malachite. (A 1960s-era Boucheron brooch featuring a lavish mound of artfully assembled round and baguette diamonds set in platinum is a dinner-party conversation starter from any angle.)

Frédéric Boucheron gave a serpent necklace to his wife as a symbol of love and protection. Leopards, hummingbirds, deer and hedgehogs are referenced in the Animaux de Collection, while high-end 3D technology in the Nature Triomphante meticulously re-creates flower petals, ivy branches and other organic forms.

Boucheron also pays homage to Paris, the city where it was founded. The octagonal shape of the Place Vendôme is translated into the geometric Liseré pieces, and the Clou de Paris motif — which is integral to the house's Quatre series — is inspired by the cobblestones on its streets. Since 1859, when Boucheron introduced a collection of pocket watches, the maison has also regularly created timepieces with the same elegance and refinement as its jewelry.

Despite having such a long legacy, Boucheron has always been ahead of its time. Its creative collections and bold jewelry remain coveted and cherished. In 2018, its flagship in the Place Vendôme reopened after a restoration under its current owner Kering.

Find antique and vintage Boucheron jewelry on 1stDibs.