JEAN SCHLUMBERGER, TIFFANY & CO., Yellow Gold, Ruby, Turquoise and Enamel Brooch
View Similar Items
JEAN SCHLUMBERGER, TIFFANY & CO., Yellow Gold, Ruby, Turquoise and Enamel Brooch
About the Item
- Creator:
- Metal:18k Gold,Yellow Gold,Enamel
- Stone:Ruby,Turquoise
- Stone Cut:Round Cut
- Place of Origin:France
- Period:21st Century
- Date of Manufacture:2000's
- Condition:
- Seller Location:New York, NY
- Reference Number:Seller: 53B50461stDibs: LU222395562
Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.
Jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger once said that he strived to “make everything look as if it were growing, uneven, at random, organic, in motion.” His jewels interpreted the vitality of the natural world with lively designs that included a moonstone-topped jellyfish brooch with sapphire tentacles exuding a watery shimmer and a ring encrusted with a burst of diamonds that “bloomed” like a flower bud.
A self-taught jeweler, Schlumberger’s mastery of color as well as his expertise as a draftsman brought his fantastic ideas to life. Born to a leading textile manufacturing family in Alsace, France, Schlumberger took to drawing as a child and showed promise as an artist, but his parents instead sent him to study banking in Berlin in the 1930s. Uninspired, he departed for Paris and began creating buttons for Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli, who also commissioned him for costume jewelry.
One of Schlumberger’s early pieces — a cigarette lighter in the form of a fish whose head opened to reveal the flame — demonstrated his skill for capturing the vivacity of nature in precious metal. The designer’s imaginative jewelry was in contrast to popular geometric lines of Art Deco, an independent vision he affirmed in the extravagant 1941 Trophée de Vaillance brooch created for fashion editor Diana Vreeland. An extravagant confection of diamonds, amethyst, rubies and gold, the brooch featured gemstones adorning an intricate intersection of tiny spears and a breastplate over a glittering shield.
After serving in the French army and the Free French forces during World War II — and surviving the Battle of Dunkirk — Schlumberger left war-torn Europe for New York and in 1946 established a jewelry salon with Nicolas Bongard. There, his vibrant work caught the eye of Tiffany & Co. After joining the American luxury jewelry house in 1956, he soon had his own studio on the mezzanine of Tiffany’s Fifth Avenue store that he accessed by a private elevator. In his workshop, Schlumberger used a rainbow of gemstones, gold and diamonds to create some of the company’s most beguiling designs.
From striking earrings shaped like soaring wings to diamond birds perched on glittering gemstones, each of Schlumberger’s Tiffany designs dazzled. His supporters included Bunny Mellon, whose love for horticulture inspired commissions such as the Jasmine necklace with diamond blossoms flowering from a garland of colored sapphires, and Jacqueline Kennedy, who wore his Croisillon bracelets so often they became known as “Jackie bracelets.” Schlumberger retired from Tiffany in the late 1970s, but decades after his designs were introduced many of his popular pieces remain in production.
On 1stDibs, find an extraordinary range of vintage Jean Schlumberger jewelry designed for Tiffany & Co.
- Yellow Gold, White Gold, Ruby and Diamond BroochLocated in New York, NYAn 18 karat yellow and white gold, lab grown ruby and diamond brooch, attributed to Marc Koven. The brooch in the shape of an X formed of intertwining rope...Category
Vintage 1960s American Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
- Waltman Yellow Gold and Ruby Watch BroochLocated in New York, NYA 14 karat yellow gold and ruby watch brooch. Waltham. Circa 1940. Designed as a polished gold disc, decorated with a star motif, enhanced by small round cabochon rubies, centering a watch, of mechanical movement, 16.5mm, the white dial with Arabic and baton numerals. Diameter is approximately 2 1/8 inches, gross weight is approximately 32.5 grams. Dial signed Waltham Premier.Category
Vintage 1940s American Brooches
MaterialsRuby, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
- Gold, Amethyst, Ruby and Diamond BroochLocated in New York, NYA 14 karat yellow and white gold, amethyst, ruby and diamond brooch. Designed as a mythical creature with the head and forelegs of a unicorn...Category
1990s American Brooches
MaterialsAmethyst, Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
- A Yellow Gold BroochLocated in New York, NYA 14 karat yellow gold brooch, circa 1940s. Designed as a scrolling tapered horizontally striated motif applied with a graduated row of gold beadwork down the center. Length approx...Category
Vintage 1940s American Brooches
Materials14k Gold, Yellow Gold
- A Yellow Gold, Star Sapphire, Ruby and Diamond RingLocated in New York, NYAn 18 karat yellow gold, star sapphire, ruby and diamond ring. Centering an oval gray star sapphire measuring approximately 13.83 x 11.01 mm surrounded by fourteen (14) oval cabocho...Category
1990s American Cocktail Rings
MaterialsRuby, Diamond, Star Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
- ALBERTO E LINA Yellow Gold, Coral, Turquoise & Lapis Lazuli BraceletsBy Alberto e LinaLocated in New York, NYA set of three 18 karat yellow gold, coral, turquoise and lapis lazuli bracelets. Alberto e Lina, Capri. The bracelets have six yellow gold links encl...Category
Vintage 1980s Italian Link Bracelets
MaterialsCoral, Turquoise, Lapis Lazuli, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
- Tiffany & Co Jean Schlumberger Diamond Turquoise Yellow Gold Platinum Pin BroochBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in Holland, PA18k Yellow Gold Platinum Diamond And Turquoise Brooch Pin by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. With 78 round brilliant cut diamonds VS1 clarity, G color total weight approximately ...Category
1990s American Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, Turquoise, Yellow Gold, Platinum
$32,500Free Shipping - Jean Schlumberger, Tiffany & Co. Peridot and Ruby Thistle BroochBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in Boston, MAThis late 20th century pin is comprised of full cut green peridots, and red rubys set in 18kt yellow gold in this whimsically classic floral thistle themed design. This pin measures ...Category
Mid-20th Century American Brooches
MaterialsPeridot, Ruby, Yellow Gold
- Tiffany & Co Jean Schlumberger Diamond Yellow Gold Platinum Pin BroochBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in Holland, PA18k Yellow Gold Platinum Diamond Brooch Pin by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. With 21 round brilliant cut diamonds VS1 clarity, G colo...Category
Vintage 1980s American Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, Yellow Gold, Platinum
- Tiffany & Co Schlumberger Gold Ruby Hedgehog Brooch PinBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in New York, NYAdorable 18k yellow gold hedgehog brooch , designed by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Set with tiny ruby eyes. The brooch measures 1.25" x 7/8". Hallmarked on the back : Tiffany...Category
20th Century French Brooches
MaterialsRuby, Gold
- Tiffany & Co. " J. Schlumberger " BroochBy Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.Located in New York, NYTiffany Schlumberger diamond and emeradl bird on a branch brooch in 18k yellow gold and platinum. The bird is made in platinum, body fully encrusted with round brilliant cut diamonds...Category
21st Century and Contemporary American Artist Brooches
MaterialsDiamond, 18k Gold, Platinum
- Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Coral Turquoise Diamond Platinum 18k Gold BroochBy Tiffany & Co.Located in Bellmore, NYStep into the world of timeless elegance with this exquisite vintage Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Coral Turquoise Diamond Platinum 18k Gold Brooch, a ...Category
Late 20th Century Contemporary Brooches
MaterialsCoral, White Diamond, Turquoise, Gold, 18k Gold, Platinum
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
These Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Earrings Are Just the Right Amount of Bold
Someone wanted to “modernize” the Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. masterworks, but Mahnaz Collection came to their rescue. Here, the dealer explains precisely why they’re such an extraordinary find.
Tastemaker Bunny Mellon’s Extraordinary Schlumberger Jewels
The philanthropist and heiress was an avid jewelry collector, and her trove of Jean Schlumberger creations embodies the love of nature she shared with the famed designer.