Schlumberger Gold Poodle Lighter
About the Item
- Creator:
- Metal:
- Stone:
- Stone Cut:
- Weight:47.3 g
- Dimensions:Length: 2.25 in (57.15 mm)
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Date of Manufacture:1950's
- Condition:
- Seller Location:New York, NY
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU731315021592
Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.
Jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger once said that he strived to “make everything look as if it were growing, uneven, at random, organic, in motion.” His jewels interpreted the vitality of the natural world with lively designs that included a moonstone-topped jellyfish brooch with sapphire tentacles exuding a watery shimmer and a ring encrusted with a burst of diamonds that “bloomed” like a flower bud.
A self-taught jeweler, Schlumberger’s mastery of color as well as his expertise as a draftsman brought his fantastic ideas to life. Born to a leading textile manufacturing family in Alsace, France, Schlumberger took to drawing as a child and showed promise as an artist, but his parents instead sent him to study banking in Berlin in the 1930s. Uninspired, he departed for Paris and began creating buttons for Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli, who also commissioned him for costume jewelry.
One of Schlumberger’s early pieces — a cigarette lighter in the form of a fish whose head opened to reveal the flame — demonstrated his skill for capturing the vivacity of nature in precious metal. The designer’s imaginative jewelry was in contrast to popular geometric lines of Art Deco, an independent vision he affirmed in the extravagant 1941 Trophée de Vaillance brooch created for fashion editor Diana Vreeland. An extravagant confection of diamonds, amethyst, rubies and gold, the brooch featured gemstones adorning an intricate intersection of tiny spears and a breastplate over a glittering shield.
After serving in the French army and the Free French forces during World War II — and surviving the Battle of Dunkirk — Schlumberger left war-torn Europe for New York and in 1946 established a jewelry salon with Nicolas Bongard. There, his vibrant work caught the eye of Tiffany & Co. After joining the American luxury jewelry house in 1956, he soon had his own studio on the mezzanine of Tiffany’s Fifth Avenue store that he accessed by a private elevator. In his workshop, Schlumberger used a rainbow of gemstones, gold and diamonds to create some of the company’s most beguiling designs.
From striking earrings shaped like soaring wings to diamond birds perched on glittering gemstones, each of Schlumberger’s Tiffany designs dazzled. His supporters included Bunny Mellon, whose love for horticulture inspired commissions such as the Jasmine necklace with diamond blossoms flowering from a garland of colored sapphires, and Jacqueline Kennedy, who wore his Croisillon bracelets so often they became known as “Jackie bracelets.” Schlumberger retired from Tiffany in the late 1970s, but decades after his designs were introduced many of his popular pieces remain in production.
On 1stDibs, find an extraordinary range of vintage Jean Schlumberger jewelry designed for Tiffany & Co.
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: New York, NY
- Return PolicyA return for this item may be initiated within 3 days of delivery.
- Schlumberger Gold Fish LighterBy Jean SchlumbergerLocated in New York, NYSchlumberger Gold Fish Lighter Made circa 1939. A flexible goldfish with textured gold scales set with a cabochon sapphire and ruby as eyes, 18k yellow ...Category
Vintage 1930s French Models and Miniatures
MaterialsRuby, Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold
- Romolo Grassi Gold Coral Resting Lady ObjectLocated in New York, NYGold & Coral Resting Lady Object By Romolo Grassi The Lady is 18k Yellow Gold on one very fine solid coral. Accented with diamonds and mounted on quartz Gold Gram Weight: 766.7 grams...Category
Vintage 1960s Italian Figurines and Sculptures
MaterialsCoral, Gold, 18k Gold, Brass
- Mario Buccellati Silver SquirrelBy Mario BuccellatiLocated in New York, NYMario Buccellati Silver Squirrel, silver texted fur with glass eyes, enamel nose and gilt acorns. Signed on one leaf Mario Buccellati, 925, and 15-MI M...Category
Vintage 1980s Figurines and Sculptures
MaterialsSilver
- Austrian Silver Gilt, Wood and Enamel Clock Cabinet TableLocated in New York, NYAustrian silver-gilt, Wood & Enamel Clock Cabinet Table classical figures painted on a gilt diaper bottom. An enamel clock face, matching the corners. Columns made of Corinthian wi...Category
Antique Early 1900s Austrian Figurines and Sculptures
MaterialsSilver, Enamel
- Sterle Gold Hand MirrorBy Pierre SterléLocated in New York, NYSterle Gold Hand Mirror A double sided mirror with an acrylic handle set in 14 karat gold accented by 19 round diamonds Signed Sterle Paris and n...Category
Vintage 1960s French Desk Accessories
MaterialsDiamond, Yellow Gold, Gold, 14k Gold
- Asprey Gem Set Gold Bird ClockBy AspreyLocated in New York, NYAsprey Gem Set Gold Bird Clock A gold clock set between two birds on a branch, breathtakingly adorned with diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires, amet...Category
Vintage 1970s English Desk Accessories
MaterialsAmethyst, Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Enamel, 18k Gold, Gold, Yell...
- Exquisite 14K Gold, Diamonds, Emeralds, Rubies, Semi Precious Stone CamelLocated in New York, NYAn Exquisite 14K Gold, Diamonds, Emeralds, Rubies, Sapphires, and Semi Precious Stone Mounted Rhodonite Camel. Circa 1970, Italy A very good quality and unusual gold mounted jeweled object...Category
20th Century Italian Figurines and Sculptures
MaterialsCoral, Diamond, Emerald, Moonstone, Pearl, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, 14k Gold
- MOISEIKIN 18K Gold Diamond and Pearl Floral MiniatureBy MOISEIKINLocated in Hong Kong, HKAn exquisite floral miniature with chrysanthemums and a golden rooster was created inspired by the Eastern Asian Painting "Flowers and Birds." Chrysan...Category
2010s Russian Arts and Crafts Figurines and Sculptures
MaterialsDiamond, Garnet, Jade, Pearl, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Chalcedony, 18k Gold
- Rare Carved Hawk's Eye Agate Tiger on a 14K Gold Mounted Rock Crystal BaseLocated in New York, NYA rare carved Hawk's Eye agate tiger on a 14k gold mounted rock crystal base, circa 1960. "A Jeweled Sculpture" An incredible carved tiger made fro...Category
20th Century Figurines and Sculptures
MaterialsAgate, Rock Crystal, 14k Gold
- Antique Reverse Crystal Stickpin Tiepin Boxer Dog 14kt Red Gold Red Dog CollarLocated in Munich, BavariaThis reverse crystal of a boxer dog wearing a red dog collar has been hand carved and hand painted in the last quarter of the 19th century. The crystal is mounted in a red gold setti...Category
Antique 1890s Austrian Victorian Figurines and Sculptures
MaterialsCrystal, 14k Gold
- Mellerio Paris, a French Gold, Diamonds, Silver, and Smoky Quartz Carved HorseBy Mellerio dits MellerLocated in New York, NYMellerio Paris, A French Gold, Diamonds, Silver-Gilt, Rock-Crystal, Jade, Mother-Of-Pearl and Smoky Quartz, Carved Horse Sculpture, Jeweled Mounted Object. An extremely rare and unique, one of a kind French gold, diamonds, Silver-gilt, rock-crystal, jade, obsidian, mother-of-pearl, and smoky quartz carved jeweled sculpture "CHEVAUX DE LEGENDE", "A Legendary Horse" by Mellerio, Paris, circa 1991. Sitting on black obsidian base, the solid rock-crystal slab is finely applied with a carved smoky -quartz and jade horse with a harness mounted in 18k gold, brilliant -cut diamonds, rubies, turquoise, and amethyst chains and pendants. The top columns adorned with 18k gold and brilliant cut diamond pendants, the bottom with gold and mother of pearl plaques. The obsidian base with a plaque engraved: CHEVAUX DE LEGENDE" / N° 05 / MELLERIO DITS MELLER / PARIS / 5003 D The piece is in excellent condition and comes with a custom made wood case made for transport. It's very elegant and has French hallmarks throughout. A truly magnificent piece. Measures 10.5" high x 8.5" wide x 4" deep Founded in France in 1613 by the descendants of Italian immigrants from the Vigezzo Valley in the north of Italy, Mellerio is one of the oldest jewellery houses in Europe. The family business soon attracted the attention of the Royal Court and Marie Antoinette herself reportedly purchased a precious bracelet featuring 7 cameos surrounded by rubies in 1780. Later on, in the 19th century, Mellerio became the official supplier of the French Royal family and the Court of Netherland. Mellerio creates many jewellery items, all set with rare gems such as peridots, amethysts, aquamarines, citrines and topaz, applying for a patent, the flexible stem, a very supple and light jewellery mechanism. Mellerio remains also well known for their spectacular series of Art Nouveau jewels, created at the beginning of the 20th century, as well as for the creation of trophies rewarding some of the greatest footfall and tennis players of history. In 1993, the jewellery house launched their first watch collection. Today, Mellerio has stores in Paris, Japan and Hong Kong. July 14, 1789: this date is known throughout the world as the beginning of the French Revolution. According to a ledger belonging to House of Mellerio, this was also the day that the jeweler sold a golden key to the Comte de Coutance for 10 livres. This ledger, as well as inventories dating as far back as 1768, are the jeweler’s oldest archives. These archives have continued to grow over the years, as the House, established on rue de la Paix in Paris, still lives on today, still in the hands of the same family from Craveggia, in the North of Italy. The tumultuous history of the Mellerio family in France probably goes as far back as the Italian wars of the Renaissance, but the first official document proving their commercial activity in Paris dates back to 1613. This document is the famous royal warrant awarded by Marie de Medici to a number of Italian families established along the rue des Lombards, including the Mellerios, allowing them to sell “small jewelery items”, therefore granting them a small exception to the traditional monopoly enjoyed by Parisian jewelers. At that time, powerful corporations regulated the operations and customs of Parisian business, but thanks to this exceptional warrant, the Mellerios managed to escape the confines of this framework. Today, this wax-sealed document is kept at the city hall of Craveggia. From 1613 to the Revolution, the Mellerios lived between France and Italy. The corporations tried many times to put an end to their trade privileges, but all in vain, as a dynasty of sovereigns renewed the warrant. Always marrying and often retiring in Craveggia, the Mellerios continued to maintain their jewelry business in Paris. At first, they did this without a shop. Wearing backpacks (wooden boxes divided into small compartments where jewels were kept), they would tour town fairs around Paris and royal castles. This is how Jean-Baptiste Mellerio (1765-1850) is said to have sold a bracelet set with rubies and Antique cameos to Marie-Antoinette, which still exists today. Many elements seem to prove the veracity of this anecdote. The queen was particularly fond of cameos, which cover the entire background of her famous jewelry cabinet, and ruby was her favorite stone after diamond. The famous bracelet, reacquired a few years ago by the House of Mellerio, is indeed an 18th century jewel, set with antique cameos representing the profiles of Roman emperors. Two branches of the family were operating in Paris during this time, under the reign of Louis XVI: that of Jean-François (1746-1828), the paternal ancestor of the current Mellerios, and that of Jean-Baptiste (1765-1850). The French Revolution forced them to return to Italy. However, both Jean-Baptiste and François Mellerio (1772-1843), who was the son of Jean-François, were eventually able to return to Paris after the founding of the Consulate. Jean-Baptiste opened a shop at the Iron Crown of rue Vivienne, and François opened his at the Palais des Tuileries, rue du Coq Saint-Honoré. His well-organized order books give an idea of his high-ranking clientele during the “Old Regime”, among which were the Comte and Comtesse Octave de Segur, the Marquise (later Duchess) de Tourzel, former governess of the royal children, and her daughter, the Comtesse de Bearn, the Craufurds -who organized the flight to Varennes, the Duc and Duchess de Gramont, the Comtesse de Boigne, and Madame de Souza, Talleyrand’s mistress. We also see the names of the imperial family: Empress Josephine, the Queen of Holland, Princess Elisa, Caroline and Pauline. At that time, the House of Mellerio specialized, among other things, in the trade of antique cameos, a newly fashionable genre of jewel that captured the imagination of all the princesses and noble women of the time. The years of the Restauration and July Monarchy were among the most glorious. The Bourbons were back on the throne, and the clientele of the House of Mellerio had regained its former wealth. Mellerio supplied Louis-Philippe, Duke of Orléans, as well as his mother, wife and sister, with sumptuous jewels, including a set of emeralds made piece by piece, while the Duke of Bourbon, last prince of the House of Condé, offered diamonds to his mistress, the scheming Baronne de Feucheres, and Monsieur de LaFayette also bought cameos for one of his granddaughters. For the first time, Mellerio ventured into the world of arts in 1815, when Carlotta Grisi, a famous dancer who created Giselle, as well as an actress named Rachel, bought jewels at the Mellerio store on rue de la Paix. 1848 marked a new turning point. France once again became a Republic. François Mellerio handed the company over to his son, Jean, and the latter decided to travel to Spain to build a new clientele. He later became one of the jewelers of the royal family, and met Eugénie de Montijo, who remained a faithful client when she became empress of the French people. The Imperial years were lavish. During the Second Empire, Paris was a pageant of crinoline dresses designed by Worth, while jewels by Mellerio, Worth’s neighbour on the rue de la Paix, adorned the noble women of the Tuileries court. The Empress bought pearls. Mathilde Bonaparte...Category
20th Century French Figurines and Sculptures
MaterialsJade, Quartz, Rock Crystal, Ruby, Turquoise, Amethyst, Diamond, Gold, Si...
- Antique 14k Yellow Gold LighterLocated in Montreal, QCAntique used 14k yellow gold lighter, good condition (missing fuel), not clearly marked. Acid tested 14k. Measures 50mm x 11mm in diameter. In good condit...Category
Early 20th Century Unknown More Objets d'Art and Vertu
Materials14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
These Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Earrings Are Just the Right Amount of Bold
Someone wanted to “modernize” the Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. masterworks, but Mahnaz Collection came to their rescue. Here, the dealer explains precisely why they’re such an extraordinary find.
Tastemaker Bunny Mellon’s Extraordinary Schlumberger Jewels
The philanthropist and heiress was an avid jewelry collector, and her trove of Jean Schlumberger creations embodies the love of nature she shared with the famed designer.