Roman Malakov Pearl Rings

Renowned for its boutique — a New York City Diamond District mainstay — as well as for its handcrafted, world-class engagement rings, the Roman Malakov jewelry company actually began an ocean away from Midtown Manhattan.

At the end of World War II in 1945, the eldest of the three Malakov brothers began studying with some of the leading watchmakers in Europe, eventually becoming a master watchmaker himself. He soon joined forces with his younger brothers, sourcing and dealing rare watches and gems, and eventually shifting focus to the latter. Soon, the family would master the art of the “Russian cut,” an art form they brought to their diamond cutting stateside, establishing their Diamond District location in the mid-20th century. As a wholesaler, manufacturer and retailer, the company oversees each step of the jewelry-making process for vibrant pieces of exceptional quality.

In the United States, the company continued its hands-on approach to sourcing, with the family and later, its employees working directly with mines around the world, from Lesotho to Siberia, for stones that are hand-inspected and certified as natural and conflict-free. This process results in a wide variety of stones — from pink sapphires to yellow diamonds in a range of cuts, with white diamonds joining these vibrant stones on almost every piece. Blue sapphires from Kashmir and rare Tanzanian rubies, for instance, are encircled with diamonds for lustrous halo rings.

Roman Malakov is well-known for its engagement rings and wedding bands, but it also produces bracelets, necklaces, earrings and cocktail rings in a rainbow of colors and styles ranging from traditional to Art Deco. Always, though, the centerpieces are the stones, which the company also sells loose, each a luminous gem embodying both natural beauty and fine craftsmanship.

And with three generations of diamond expertise, Roman Malakov is also the perfect resource for learning about how to clean a diamond ring.

Find a collection of Roman Malakov jewelry on 1stDibs today.

Contemporary jewelry is inextricably linked with the moment in which it is created, frequently reflecting current social, cultural and political issues such as environmental consciousness, identity and sustainability. It’s informed by fashion trends, from the chokers of the 1990s to the large chain necklaces of the early 2000s.

Jewelry is one of the oldest forms of adornment. Lockets made of silver or gold have been treasured gifts for hundreds of years, for example, and charm bracelets, which have existed since prehistoric times, didn’t become especially popular until the 19th-century reign of Queen Victoria. For many centuries, fine jewelry was used primarily to express wealth or status through lavish materials. Then, in the 1960s, a concept known as the “critique of preciousness” emerged, with jewelers creating pieces that did not get their value from gemstones or precious metals. Instead, it was the jeweler’s artistic vision that was prized and elevated.

This shift still informs Contemporary jewelry being made by artists today. Whether they are using cheap, found materials and working with provocative geometric shapes or seeking out the rarest stones, they are imbuing their work with meaning through their skills, techniques and ideas. Innovative designers such as Elsa Peretti, who popularized sculptural sterling-silver jewelry for Tiffany & Co., and David Yurman, who twisted metal into the simple yet striking Cable bracelet, have also influenced the direction of Contemporary jewelry’s forms and aesthetics.

Meanwhile, technological advancements like metal alloys and laser engraving have led to new possibilities in jewelry design. Now, edgy makers and brands as well as minimalist designers are pushing Contemporary jewelry forward into the 21st century.

Find a collection of Contemporary rings, earrings, necklaces and other jewelry on 1stDibs.

A flashy symbol of wealth during the early 20th century, antique and vintage cocktail rings have gained broader appeal in the decades since for the hefty dose of glamour they bring to any ensemble.

Cocktail rings earned their name for their frequent appearances during glitzy cocktail parties at the height of the Prohibition era. Back then, these accessories were seen not only as statement pieces but as statements in and of themselves. They openly represented a sense of freedom and independence as well as a demonstration of opulence. After all, the 1920s heralded the Harlem Renaissance and Art Deco design, and a slew of social and cultural shifts meant that women in particular were breaking from pre–World War I conventions and embracing newfound freedoms to express themselves as individuals.

Women expressly wore cocktail rings on the fingers of their right hand versus the left, which was “reserved” for an engagement ring or wedding band, accessories definitely paid for by a suitor. And for cocktail rings, the bigger the colored gem at the center — which is usually mounted in a high setting — and the more elaborate the design, the stronger the likelihood of being noticed.

Cocktail rings remained a popular piece of jewelry for women until the 1930s, when the Great Depression and the onset of war marked a change in behaviors nationwide. While the 1960s and ’70s saw a return in visibility for the accessory, it wasn’t until the 1980s that cocktail rings once again assumed their position as a beacon of luxury and glitz.

During the 20th century, the range of dazzling cocktail rings seems to have been limitless, from glimmering gold rings set with carved jade diamonds designed by David Webb to Pomellato’s pink quartz confections to striking Gucci butterfly rings with accent diamonds set in a pavé fashion.

So, how do you wear a cocktail ring? Cocktail rings “can be worn for almost anything — dinners, date nights, parties, special events, on the red carpet,” explains David Joseph of New York-based jewelry brand Bochic. 

Can you wear cocktail rings with other rings? “In my opinion, cocktail rings should stand on their own since they showcase a large gem in the center,” says Joseph.

These glamorous jewels can be worn inside or outside crowded taverns, in either daytime or nighttime with casual or dressy attire. On 1stDibs, find a wide variety of antique and vintage cocktail rings, including those offered by Chanel, whose elegant cocktail rings often feature pearls and, of course, diamonds, and sometimes were styled after showy flowers like the camellia, and Van Cleef & Arpels, whose detailed and intricate designs are viewed as miniature pieces of wearable art.