2014 MARGIELA by JOHN GALLIANO long gabardine RUNWAY coat
About the Item
- Designer:
- Brand:
- Dimensions:Length: 56 in (142.24 cm)Marked Size: IT 40 (fits a 38) (JP)Bust: 32.5 in (82.55 cm)Waist: 30 in (76.2 cm)Hip: 36.5 in (92.71 cm)
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use. Light signs of wear to lining.
- Seller Location:San Fransisco, CA
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU8121509242
John Galliano
Known for introducing rich theatricality and memorable fashion spectacles to the runway, John Galliano has enjoyed a singular career. The audacious British designer has garnered universal acclaim for genre-breaking collections not only at his eponymous label but also for Givenchy and Christian Dior.
From his embroidered absinthe-green Oscars gown for actress Nicole Kidman to the iconic sleeveless newspaper-print dress that Sex and the City’s Carrie Bradshaw made famous, Galliano’s intricate and multifaceted work is reliably newsworthy, drawing on history as often as it embodies a fresh and forward-looking sensibility, and over the years the designer has helped shape an ever-broadening new legion of enthusiasts for Parisian couture.
Born in Gibraltar but raised in South London by strict Roman Catholic working-class parents, Galliano attended the all-boys Church of England grammar school, where his flamboyance and interest in art attracted the attention of bullies. Eventually, Galliano ended up at the prestigious design and art school Central Saint Martins College (then called Saint Martin’s School of Art), where fellow British designers Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen also trained.
Galliano flourished at Central Saint Martins. While a student, he worked in the costume department at the National Theatre in London. His graduate collection in 1984, dubbed “Les Incroyables” and named for post–French Revolution fashion lovers, was modeled by close friends of his and earned a standing ovation. The line ended up in the storefront windows of London luxury boutique Brown’s on South Molton Street, and Galliano’s first official collection — after he graduated — debuted at Paris Fashion Week in 1989.
In the early 1990s, Galliano’s relationship with his financial backer, Plein Sud’s Faycal Amor, ended, and by 1994, he was broke and sleeping on the floor of a friend’s apartment. Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour and then-Vanity Fair editor André Leon Talley stepped in and introduced the budding designer to Portuguese socialite and fashion patron São Schlumberger and others. At Schlumberger’s Hôtel Particulier, Galliano’s shows became the stuff of fashion legend. His collection, a blend of Japanese modernist style as well as nostalgia for Art Deco and 1940s’ tailoring, earned raves in glossy magazines and garnered the attention of Princess Diana, Madonna and other fashion luminaries.
Once the Galliano name was well known among the world’s most stylish set, the chairperson of LVMH, Bernard Arnault, appointed Galliano head designer of French fashion house Givenchy. One year later, in 1996, LVMH moved him to the design team at Dior, where he produced scores of celebrated looks for Dior Haute Couture. Today, Galliano is the creative director of Maison Margiela.
Shop vintage John Galliano evening dresses and gowns, handbags, jackets and other clothing and accessories on 1stDibs.
Maison Martin Margiela
Belgian designer Martin Margiela (b. 1957) — whose life, career, clothing designs and vintage shoes have become cult-collector obsessions — pushed those who attended his shows outside their comfort zones. In the years following his maison's 1988 debut, he toyed with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today.
Consider the Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels, or his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies, from his Fall/Winter 1997 line. Or his oversize collection for Fall/Winter 2000. In 1992, Margiela told Dépêche Mode magazine, “My clothes appeal to women of a certain mindset rather than of a specific age or physique.”
Born in Genk, Belgium, in 1957, Margiela knew he wanted to be a fashion designer after catching glimpses of Parisian fashion on TV as a child. Although his parents discouraged this career choice as an oddly funny aspiration, Margiela enrolled in the fashion program of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. There, he befriended and graduated a year ahead of the Antwerp Six — the acclaimed group of Belgian fashion designers comprising Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk Van Saene.
Like many of his contemporaries in the 1980s, Margiela understood Paris fashion but felt a deep resonance with the deconstructed beauty espoused by Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garçons. Margiela’s fascination with Japan influenced many of his earliest collections and designs, from a dress pieced together from broken plates to his iconic Tabi boots, inspired by the split-toe Japanese worker’s shoe, which dates back to the 15th century. He decided to launch his own line while working for renowned Paris designer Jean Paul Gaultier.
Margiela, Gaultier has often stated, was his best assistant. Even then, the 2019 film Martin Margiela: In His Own Words suggests, he was acutely aware of the widening gulf between the art and the business of fashion.
Margiela’s debut show was nothing short of spectacular. Set in a packed Café de la Gare in the still-seedy Marais district, it was also scandalous to the Parisian fashion set of the time. The designer tore up the conventions of contemporary couture presentations, most notably having his models, plucked from the streets and wearing ink-blotted Tabis, wend their way through the crowd. The show redefined the concept of the runway in a way that would later inspire such designers as Alexander McQueen and Demna Gvasalia.
While the notoriously private designer retired from fashion in 2009, for many Maison Martin Margiela collectors, his pieces capture the irreverence of the postwar, post-punk late 1980s and ’90s. Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of the cult vintage fashion shop Resurrection, is among those who felt a connection to Margiela’s clothing in the subliminal challenges it posed to the time’s beauty norms.
“Growing up in San Francisco and coming out of the end of punk rock, not wanting to be objectified, not wanting to be seen as a sexual object, not wanting your value to be just because you’re pretty — all those clothes played into all of that,” she says. “It really was a reflection of the kind of world the young people I knew at the time wanted to live in.”
Find vintage Maison Martin Margiela boots, evening dresses, jackets and more on 1stDibs.
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: Oakland, CA
- Return PolicyThis item cannot be returned.
- CERRUTI gray streamlined wool coatLocated in San Fransisco, CAGray felted wool streamlined coat from Cerruti 1881 dating to the late 1980's. Fits a Size 6-8. Unlined. Made in France. Excellent condition.Category
1980s French Coats and Outerwear
- 2000's CUSTOM MADE tan & purple reversible shearling coat with fox trimLocated in San Fransisco, CACustom made tan and vivid periwinkle purple reversible shearling coat with fox trim dating to the early 2000's. Fits a size 6 to a 10. Approximate measurements are as follows" 42" bu...Category
21st Century and Contemporary American Coats and Outerwear
- 2015 CELINE By Phoebe Philo Khaki Wool Coat With Open ClosureBy Phoebe Philo, CelineLocated in San Fransisco, CAStunning, khaki wool coat with open closure designed by Phoebe Philo for Celine dating to pre-fall of 2015, look 5. Labeled a French 36 however due to oversized cut, it will accommod...Category
2010s French Coats and Outerwear
- 1970's GUCCI navy blue cotton trench coat with enameled GG buttonsBy GucciLocated in San Fransisco, CAVery rare, navy blue trench coat with enameled GG buttons designed by Gucci dating to the 1970's. Labeled an Italian 42, however this best fits a US 2-6. Approximate measurements: sh...Category
1970s Italian Trench Coats
- 1980's BURBERRY'S classic tan trench with matching nova check cashmere scarfBy BurberryLocated in San Fransisco, CAClassic, tan gabardine trench with matching nova check cashmere scarf from Burberry's dating to the 1980's. Trench has inner zip out wool liner. Labeled a size '10 extra-long'. Appr...Category
1980s North American Trench Coats
- 1990's MOSCHINO Cheap and Chic black wool military coatBy Moschino, Moschino Cheap and ChicLocated in San Fransisco, CAJet black wool medium weight military coat from Moschino 'Cheap & Chic' dating to the 1990's. Italian size 40. Approximate measurements: shoulder 17", bust 42", hip 42", arm length 2...Category
1990s Italian Jackets
- Yves Saint Laurent by Tom Ford FW-2003 Wool Tailored Coat with Ruffle DetailingBy Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent, Yves Saint Laurent Rive GaucheLocated in Brussels, BEDuring his tenure at the prestigious House of Yves Saint Laurent, Tom Ford understood the necessary balance cherished by its founder between rigorous lines and sensual femininity. This statement coat...Category
Early 2000s Italian Coats
- MONTANA FW 1989 oversized cashmere drapé coatBy Claude Montana Paris, Claude MontanaLocated in Genève, CHCoat by Montana -Generous structured collar -Deep teal color -Kimono silhouette sleeves -Oversize fitting -Two inseam hip pockets -Made in Italy -80% Wool / 20% Cashmere -Estimated ...Category
1980s Italian Coats
- Roberto Cavalli leather coat, FW 2002By Roberto CavalliLocated in London, GBMY Runway Archive presents this beautiful and rare Roberto Cavalli leather coat with fur collar and silk patchwork print lining from the...Category
Early 2000s European Overcoats
- Mariano Fortuny Burgundy Stencilled Crepe CoatBy FortunyLocated in Riverdale, NYFortuny translated the caftan as a loose fitting outer garment, usually made out of silk velvet crepe or gauze the fitted back and open front allowed for elaborate stenciled decorati...Category
Early 20th Century Italian Art Deco Coats
- Mariano Fortuny Pink Stencilled Velvet Persian Style CoatBy FortunyLocated in Riverdale, NYthis three-quarter length orange-red cut velvet jacket was printed with metallic paints with Venetian glass buttons and silk loop closures at the center front.
The han...CategoryEarly 20th Century Italian Art Deco Coats
- Mariano Fortuny Black Stencilled Velvet Long CoatBy FortunyLocated in Riverdale, NYFortuny's coats often take their inspiration from a myrid of references,renaissance,persian,arabic .These are often elaborately decorated in historical motifs surprisingly unrelated...Category
Early 20th Century Italian Art Deco Coats
Recently Viewed
View AllRead More
How John Galliano Caused Fashion Chaos around the Globe
The visionary designer epitomizes the pleasures and perils of irrepressible creative genius.
The Best Ways to Dress for Your Astrological Sign
Makeup and astrology expert Linda Mason dispenses fashion advice for every zodiac sign. Does your wardrobe match your horoscope?