A Madame Grès Couture Evening Dress - Autumn Winter 1953
About the Item
- Designer:
- Brand:
- Dimensions:Marked Size: Equivalent to French size 36 (EU)
- Style:1953 (Of the Period)
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use. Good Condition and Color.
- Seller Location:Toulon, FR
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU633319306362
Madame Gres
Forever credited with having altered the fashion world with her pleated silk dresses, Madame Grès was one of the greatest couturiers of the 20th century. She defied the orders of Nazi soldiers and designed gowns and evening dresses that mirrored the colors and pattern of the French flag, working by hand with material that hung directly from live models. A consummate artist, Grès created garments that were demonstrative of exemplary construction and meticulous attention to detail — her signature floor-length gowns left a lasting impact on every aspect of haute couture.
Born Germaine Émilie Krebs to a French Jewish family in Paris, Grès initially studied painting and sculpture. For her, making dresses and working in sculpture were one and the same, and she pursued a career in fashion. Grès worked in millinery and was trained in haute couture dressmaking at the illustrious House of Prémet.
Grès opened her inaugural couture fashion house in 1932, and within a couple of years she began working under the name Alix Barton — the surname came from her coworker, couturier Julie Barton — calling her business La Maison Alix and creating gowns until 1942 in what became her signature style. She perfected modern pleating techniques and worked directly on live models, mostly with generous amounts of silk jersey and airy silk paper taffeta. Her designs showed the influence of Greco-Roman sculpture and would go on to help shape the work of Jean-Paul Gaultier, Jil Sander and Azzedine Alaïa, who also thought of haute couture as sculpture.
Grès’s work was photographed by the likes of Horst P. Horst, and her gowns for Jean Giraudaux’s play The Trojan War Will Not Take Place in 1935 established her as a leading designer, though Nazi occupation stalled her growth.
During WWII, Grès refused to design the utilitarian garb that German forces requested and instead made clothes using the colors of the French flag as her own act of rebellion. Ultimately, she was forced to close her boutique in Paris. The designer married Russian painter Serge Czerefkov, changed her name to Grès — which is how her husband signed his name — and fled to the Pyrenees before returning to establish her second couture house under her new name.
Madame Grès’s second maison was widely successful and attracted a long list of rich and powerful clientele ranging from movie stars to royalty. A single dress could take hundreds of hours to complete. Some of the couturier’s clients became deeply loyal over the course of her career, including the Duchess of Windsor, Oscar-winning actresses Grace Kelly and Greta Garbo, iconic Tiffany & Co. jewelry designer Paloma Picasso and former First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy. Grès guarded her personal life closely and let her delicate, impeccable work speak for itself.
Original Madame Grès evening dresses and gowns, coats, jackets and day dresses, which transformed women into Greek deities, are held in the collections of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Museum at FIT and the Musée Bourdelle.
“Her dresses were about a sense of power, strength and beauty, not objectification,” explains Patricia Mears, deputy director of the Museum at FIT and author of Madame Grès: Sphinx of Fashion. “Everyone knows Chanel, Dior and Saint Laurent,” Mears says, “but I believe that the great triumvirate was Madeleine Vionnet, Balenciaga and Madame Grès — those who knew how to make clothes with their own hands, couturiers in the old sense of the word.”
Find vintage Madame Grès clothing and accessories on 1stDibs.
- ShippingRetrieving quote...Ships From: Toulon, France
- Return PolicyA return for this item may be initiated within 2 days of delivery.
- A Velvet Dress by Oscar de la Renta - USA Circa 1990By Oscar De La RentaLocated in Toulon, FRCirca 1990 United States Beautiful evening or interior dress in black and crimson red velvet by the famous American designer Oscar de la Renta and dating from the 1990s. Obvious wink to the Hispanic culture! Loose fit with high waist pleated under the chest highlighted by a braid in black silk trimmings. Asymmetrical treatment by crossing in front, with zip closure and snaps. Beautiful sleeves with Kimono cut. Two side slit pockets. Claw indicating Oscar de la Renta USA, Saks Fifth Avenue of the famous New York...Category
1990s American Casual Dresses
- A Jean-Louis Sherrer Evening Dress in Navy Polka dots Net Circa 1980By Jean-Louis ScherrerLocated in Toulon, FRCirca 1980 France Beautiful evening dress in navy blue Polyamide tulle with polka dots by Sherrer Boutique Paris numbered A13862 dating from the beginning of the Prêt-à-porter of t...Category
1980s French Evening Dresses
- A Couture Cocktail Dress in Embroidered Chiffon and satin Silk France Circa 1920Located in Toulon, FRCirca 1920 France Elegant cocktail or evening dress in black silk chiffon and tulle embroidered with jet pearls and coral glass dating from the 1920s. This...Category
1920s French Evening Dresses
- A Satin Embroidered Evening Kimono with palm trees and parrots France Circa 1930Located in Toulon, FRCirca 1920 -1930 France Cream satin kimono for the evening or inside, lined with absinthe green satin and embroidered with a polychromatic decoration in exotic style. Beautiful flo...Category
1920s French Opera Coats
- A Lanvin Printed Jersey Dress by Jules-François Crahay - France Circa 1972By Lanvin ParisLocated in Toulon, FRCirca 1972 France Modernist long dress in acetate jersey printed with ethnic motifs in strong polychromy by Jules-François Crahay for the House of Lanvin dating from the 1970s. Str...Category
1970s French Aesthetic Day Dresses
- Leopard printed silk Evening Dress by Jacques Fath Haute Couture Circa 1955-1960By Jacques FathLocated in Toulon, FRCirca 1955-1960 France Beautiful Grand soir dress in black and white leopard print satin by Jacques Fath Haute Couture. The whalebone bustier with a large plunging neckline is held b...Category
1950s French Aesthetic Evening Dresses
- ALAÏA 1990 black knitted mini dressBy Azzedine AlaïaLocated in Genève, CHAlaïa knitted mini dress with sheer raised edge skirt -Back closing with a hidden set zipper -Long sleeves -Nude knitted lining -Made in Italy -100% V...Category
1990s Italian Mini Dress
- Vivienne Westwood Fall 1992 Runway Sample Black Metallic Gold DressBy Vivienne WestwoodLocated in Hertfordshire, GBVintage Vivienne Westwood Fall 1992 “Always on Camera” collection Runway piece - this is the exact dress that was worn by model Anna Bayle on the Fall 1992 runway Black full length dress with gold glitter pattern all over Stretch fabric Long sleeve Short zip up back Made in England Measurements (Stretch fabric) - 30-34” chest...Category
1990s Evening Dresses and Gowns
- Versace Fall 1998 Runway Black Grecian Style Medusa Crystal Open Side Gown DressBy Versace, Gianni VersaceLocated in Hertfordshire, GBVintage Gianni Versace Fall 1998 - seen on the runway & in campaign images by Steven Meisel Black silk full length gown with open side detail One open side with crystal and Medusa...Category
1990s Evening Dresses and Gowns
- Gucci Fall 2006 Runway Sequin & Fur Scarf DressBy GucciLocated in Hertfordshire, GBGucci by Frida Giannini Fall 2006 - seen on the runway & in an editorial on Kate Moss Black and gold sequin mini dress with fox fur detail Ope...Category
Early 2000s Evening Dresses and Gowns
- Roberto Cavalli 2005 Blue Print Silk DressBy Roberto CavalliLocated in Hertfordshire, GBRoberto Cavalli 2005 Navy blue & beige pattern silk maxi dress Cross back straps Slight train at the back 100% silk Bias cut Size IT 42 / UK 10 / US 6 Measurements - Waist 27-3...Category
Early 2000s Evening Dresses and Gowns
- Versace Spring 2004 Teal Silk Chiffon DressBy VersaceLocated in Hertfordshire, GBVintage Versace Spring 2004 - pink print version seen on the runway Teal blue silk chiffon ruched gown. Twist straps, lunge neckline, built in bodysuit, thigh slit on one side. Tie ...Category
Early 2000s Evening Dresses and Gowns