Forever credited with having altered the fashion world with her pleated silk dresses, Madame Grès was one of the greatest couturiers of the 20th century. She defied the orders of Nazi soldiers and designed gowns and evening dresses that mirrored the colors and pattern of the French flag, working by hand with material that hung directly from live models. A consummate artist, Grès created garments that were demonstrative of exemplary construction and meticulous attention to detail — her signature floor-length gowns left a lasting impact on every aspect of haute couture.
Born Germaine Émilie Krebs to a French Jewish family in Paris, Grès initially studied painting and sculpture. For her, making dresses and working in sculpture were one and the same, and she pursued a career in fashion. Grès worked in millinery and was trained in haute couture dressmaking at the illustrious House of Prémet.
Grès opened her inaugural couture fashion house in 1932, and within a couple of years she began working under the name Alix Barton — the surname came from her coworker, couturier Julie Barton — calling her business La Maison Alix and creating gowns until 1942 in what became her signature style. She perfected modern pleating techniques and worked directly on live models, mostly with generous amounts of silk jersey and airy silk paper taffeta. Her designs showed the influence of Greco-Roman sculpture and would go on to help shape the work of Jean-Paul Gaultier, Jil Sander and Azzedine Alaïa, who also thought of haute couture as sculpture.
Grès’s work was photographed by the likes of Horst P. Horst, and her gowns for Jean Giraudaux’s play The Trojan War Will Not Take Place in 1935 established her as a leading designer, though Nazi occupation stalled her growth.
During WWII, Grès refused to design the utilitarian garb that German forces requested and instead made clothes using the colors of the French flag as her own act of rebellion. Ultimately, she was forced to close her boutique in Paris. The designer married Russian painter Serge Czerefkov, changed her name to Grès — which is how her husband signed his name — and fled to the Pyrenees before returning to establish her second couture house under her new name.
Madame Grès’s second maison was widely successful and attracted a long list of rich and powerful clientele ranging from movie stars to royalty. A single dress could take hundreds of hours to complete. Some of the couturier’s clients became deeply loyal over the course of her career, including the Duchess of Windsor, Oscar-winning actresses Grace Kelly and Greta Garbo, iconic Tiffany & Co. jewelry designer Paloma Picasso and former First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy. Grès guarded her personal life closely and let her delicate, impeccable work speak for itself.
Original Madame Grès evening dresses and gowns, coats, jackets and day dresses, which transformed women into Greek deities, are held in the collections of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Museum at FIT and the Musée Bourdelle.
“Her dresses were about a sense of power, strength and beauty, not objectification,” explains Patricia Mears, deputy director of the Museum at FIT and author of Madame Grès: Sphinx of Fashion. “Everyone knows Chanel, Dior and Saint Laurent,” Mears says, “but I believe that the great triumvirate was Madeleine Vionnet, Balenciaga and Madame Grès — those who knew how to make clothes with their own hands, couturiers in the old sense of the word.”
Find vintage Madame Grès clothing and accessories on 1stDibs.
Madame Grès Haute Couture Pleated White Gown Personal Archive, c. 1950s
By Madame Gres
Located in Jersey City, NJ
Madame Grès pleated white haute couture gown, circa 1950s — a true museum-worthy piece from the personal archive of Alix Grès, and an exceptionally rare numbered défilé prototype. Of...
A Velvet Chasuble dress by Madame Grès Haute Couture (attributed to) Circa 1980
By Madame Gres
Located in Toulon, FR
Circa 1980 France Elegant black silk velvet Chasuble evening dress by Madame Grès Haute Couture (attributed to) dating from the 1980s. Minimalist Chasuble cut with two large triangul...
A Madame Grès Couture Evening Dress - Autumn Winter 1953
By Madame Gres
Located in Toulon, FR
Circa 1953. France Grand Soir dress in black silk faille by Madame Grès Haute Couture, 1953 collection (similar dress, cover of "l'Officiel de la Couture" n°381, 1953) with a very ar...
Elegant Haute Couture Madame Gres Anthracite Silk Crepe Ensemble
By Madame Gres
Located in New York, NY
Elegant Madame Gres Anthracite Silk Crepe Ensemble from the 1970's. Simple ensemble with underdress and top. Top slips over head with button at neck and open sides. Easy bateau neckl...
White sleeveless silk jacquard cocktail dress with shell pattern Grès Paris
By Madame Gres
Located in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR
White sleeveless silk jacquard cocktail dress ( or wedding dress ) with shell pattern. Zip in the middle back + hook&eye. Silk lining. Could be a show or commercial sample because i...
Madame Grès Haute Couture 1956 Pleated Chartreuse Yellow Jersey Hellenic Gown
By Madame Gres
Located in Jersey City, NJ
A true relic of 20th-century fashion history, this original Madame Grès Haute Couture gown from 1956 embodies the sculptural elegance and technical mastery that define her legacy. Cr...
1981 Madame Gres Haute Couture Silk Taffeta Skirt & Blouse Ensemble w/Shoes
By Madame Gres
Located in Studio City, CA
A 1981 Madame Gres haute couture dark scarlet silk taffeta skirt and blouse ensemble with matching high-heeled shoes size 6 1/2. Features the iconic...
Madame Grès Haute Couture Black Elegant Evening Gown 1960s Gres Dress
By Madame Gres
Located in Berlin, BE
The Eternal Grace of Madame Grès Germaine Émilie Krebs truly was an artist sculpting silk jersey. Her designs: wearable Art. Gowns that evoked ancient goddesses, pleated with a preci...
Madame Gres Black & Grey Silk Jersey Dress w/Pleated Draped Bodice ca.1970's
By Madame Gres
Located in Studio City, CA
A circa 1970's Madame Gres knee-length one shoulder dress in shades of black and slate grey silk jersey. The bodice is constructed from a layer of black pleated and draped silk jerse...
Madame Grès Haute Couture Black Silk Faille Evening Dress, c. 1965
By Madame Gres
Located in London, GB
Haute Couture black silk faille evening dress by Madame Grès, circa 1965. The design features a square neckline with narrow shoulder straps and a high-waisted, sculpted bodice compos...
1983 Madame Gres Haute Couture Blue & Striped Taffeta Cocktail Dress W/Capelet
By Madame Gres
Located in Studio City, CA
1983 Madame Gres haute couture cocktail dress featuring a blue silk taffeta bodice w/thin spaghetti straps and a voluminous/pleated silk skirt w/blue, green, orange, and brown vertical stripes. Skirt is lined at the interior with blue silk taffeta and bodice has interior boning. Comes w/a matching blue silk taffeta cropped cape...
Madame Grès Haute Couture Tomato Red Silk Cocktail Dress, 1970s
By Madame Gres
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Creatively constructed dress by the fabulous Madame Grès. Vibrant tomato red silk twill knee length cocktail dress. Intricate darting and seam-work make for a unique silhouette. Mini...
Sublime MADAME GRÉS Ivory Satin textured Cream Vintage pencil Skirt
By Madame Gres
Located in Sheffield, GB
An Opulent Vintage Satin skirt by French couturier MADAME GRÉS. Featuring a fascinating textured cream satin jacquard, high waist band with concealed zip closure at the back, fully ...
Madame Grés Demi-Couture Black Velvet Keyhole Evening Gown Ca. 1960
By Madame Gres
Located in Studio City, CA
1960's Madame Grés demi-couture black velvet evening gown featuring center front and back keyhole. Separate voluminous taffeta slip skirt. In very good condition - some minor wear to...
Madame Grès Paris Silk Scarf Multicolor Pastel Giant Flower Print, 1970s
By Madam Gres, Madame Gres
Located in Atlanta, GA
This exquisite Madame Grès Paris silk scarf features a lush design of a giant flower in pastel tones. This fashion accessory features the Grès Paris logo in the bottom-right corner. ...
Wool double-face ( check and plain orange) coat Grès Circa 1970's
By Madame Gres
Located in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR
Wool double-face ( check and plain orange) coat. Cut-work on the waist. size L
A Madame Grès Woollen Beige Couture Dress (attributed to)- France Circa 1970
By Madame Gres
Located in Toulon, FR
Circa 1970 France Prototype or parade dress attributed to Madame Grès and dating from the 1970s. Bolduc of white cotton sewn indicating No. 144 to Christine Vicky. Beige wool knit j...
MADAME GRES HAUTE COUTURE Betsy Bloomingdale 1960's Yellow Asymmetrical Gown
By Madame Gres
Located in Los Angeles, CA
This gown is composed of a yellow silk crepe. Features an asymmetrical design with snap closures. In excellent vintage condition. **Please cross-reference measurements for p...
RARE red crêpe evening dress with cape Grès 1966
By Madame Gres
Located in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR
RARE red double lining crêpe evening dress with cape. Zip and hook&eye on the left side of the dress + split on the same side, lenght= 32 cm. ...
$750
Size: Small - Small Medium
Beautiful 1960s White Linen Beads + Pearls + Sequins A - Line 60s Shift Dress
Located in San Diego, CA
Wonderful vintage 1960s white linen A-Line / shift dress! Soft linen holds shape nicely, and features a fitted bodice with a slight A-line. Hundreds of hand-sewn sequins, beads, and ...
Pierre Balmain Silk Safety Pin Dress
By Balmain, Pierre Balmain
Located in Water Mill, NY
A beautiful pale yellow silk dress from Pierre Balmain. It is semi fitted skimming the body with a crew neckline and long sleeves adorned along the outside with dozens of silver safety...
UNWORN Emilio Pucci Peter Dundas 2011 Crochet Knit Maxi Dress Bridal Wedding 42
By Peter Dundas, Emilio Pucci
Located in Switzerland, CH
ABSOLUTELY INSANE EMILIO PUCCI CROCHET KNIT CUTOUT GOWN A real gem - inspired by icon Jane Birkin's dress One of the most famous Pucci by Peter Dundas dresses ever! Worn by celebriti...
$1,895
Size: IT 38, may run small
Alexander McQueen 2008 Unworn Silk Blue Paisley Strapless Dress Floaty Skirt
By Alexander McQueen
Located in San Francisco, CA
Amazing Alexander McQueen floaty silk strapless dress in a blue and white paisley with a few soft pinkish-red accents throughout, circa 2008. Soft pleats at bust, skirt hangs in sepa...
White openwork knit evening (or wedding) dress ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER
By Alexandre Vauthier
Located in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR
White openwork rayon knit evening (or wedding) dress . Invisible zip closure on the left side Middle front lenght : 170cm Side lenght : 185cm
Versace Fall 2021 Starfish Print Sleeveless Midi Dress Yellow IT 42
By Versace
Located in PUTNEY, NSW
Sleeveless garment-pleated satin mid-length dress in yellow featuring graphic pattern printed in multicolor. Hardware at spaghetti shoulder straps. Scoop neck collar. Lettuce edge in...
Yellow silk chiffon evening bustier dress Lorena Sarbu
Located in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR
Yellow silk chiffon evening bustier dress. Boned bustier inside with padded bra with zip and hook&eye closure in the middle back. Hidden zip closure in the middle back on the dress....
Oscar de la Renta SS 2000 yellow grey stripe bustier corset maxi dress ball gown
By Oscar De La Renta
Located in Milano, Lombardia
LOVE LALI VINTAGE An incredible gown by Oscar de La Renta from the Spring Summer 2000 collection Pale yellow corset style upper with a grey structured ...
1999 MIU MIU black nylon and scuba RUNWAY gown
By Miu Miu, Miuccia Prada
Located in San Fransisco, CA
From Miu Miu’s Spring/Summer 1999 runway, this gown features an elongated silhouette with a mix of technical fabrics and refined construction. The bodice is smooth nylon, the sleeves...
$1,882
Size: Equivalent to French size 34
A white muslin Summer dress with a round crinoline - France, circa 1845-1855
Located in Toulon, FR
Circa 1845-1855. France A nice summer walking dress in white cotton muslin for a round crinoline cage dating from the end of theFrench Louis-Philippe period around 1850. With a roman...
White jersey one shoulder evening dress with metal beads ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER
By Alexandre Vauthier
Located in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR
White jersey one shoulder evening dress with metal beads and rhinestone on the right side. Fringes . Open on the right side from the hips until the bottom. SIZE 36/S
Anise green wild silk empire waist evening dress with rhinestone 1960's
Located in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR
Anise green wild silk empire waist evening dress with rhinestone embellishment under the bust and bow. Acetate lining. Zip and hook&eye in the middle back. SIZE L
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Size: One size fits all. Shoulders 54
Haute Couture fashion show cape by Madame Grès numbered 11633 Circa 1980
By Madame Gres
Located in Toulon, FR
Circa 1980 France A Haute Couture cape by Madame Grès dating from the 1980s. Impressive circumference of the cape (996 cm), cut on the bias from thick wool twill cloth dyed in grada...
Rare Madame Grès 1950s Haute Couture Brocaded Satin Ivory Gold Evening Dress
By Madame Gres
Located in Jersey City, NJ
This exquisite vintage gown by the legendary French designer Madame Grès, epitomizes haute couture elegance. Crafted in the 1950s, the dress features a luxurious ivory-gold satin fab...
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Size: Equivalent size 36-37 France
Madame Grès Haute Couture, evening gown in black moiré silk - Paris Circa 1980
By Madam Gres, Madame Gres
Located in Toulon, FR
Circa 1980 France Elegant long black silk moire wrap dress by Madame Grès Haute Couture numbered 11369 and dating from the 1980s. Minimalist cut but complex couture structure that ...
1971 Documented Madame Gres Haute Couture Black Lace Dress
By Madame Gres
Located in London, GB
This is a beautiful example of Madame Gres's work during a pivotal moment in the fashion House's history when she expanded her design repertoire for couture evening dresses and the f...
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Size: One size fits all
A Velvet Chasuble dress by Madame Grès Haute Couture (attributed to) Circa 1980
By Madame Gres
Located in Toulon, FR
Circa 1980 France Elegant black silk velvet Chasuble evening dress by Madame Grès Haute Couture (attributed to) dating from the 1980s. Minimalist Chasuble cut with two large triang...
Madame Gres 1970s Silk Scarf 34"x34"
By Madame Gres
Located in Port Hope, ON
This is a beautiful scarf by the couture house of Madame Gres, established in France in 1932. Gres was born Germaine Emilie Krebs and raised in Paris. Her first love was painting an...
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Size: Equivalent size France 36
Crepe Long dress by Madame Grès Haute Couture (attributed to) Spring Summer 1955
By Madame Gres
Located in Toulon, FR
Spring Summer 1955 Paris Crepe evening dress by Madame Grès Haute Couture (attributed to) from the Spring Summer 1955 collection. Draped long dress...
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Size: One size fits all. Shoulders 54
Haute Couture fashion show cape by Madame Grès numbered 11633 Circa 1980
By Madame Gres
Located in Toulon, FR
Circa 1980 France Magnificent Haute Couture cape by Madame Grès dating from the 1980s. Impressive circumference of the cape (996 cm), cut on the bias from thick wool twill cloth dy...
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Size: One size equals 38-42 France
A Taffeta dress by Madame Grès Haute Couture (attributed to) - Paris 1977
By Madame Gres
Located in Toulon, FR
Autumn-Winter 1977 Collection France Dramatic long evening gown in pearl grey silk taffeta, in the form of a toga by Madame Grès Haute Couture (attributed to). Chasuble cut with ve...
Red satin sleeveless cocktail dress with see-through lace back Grès
By Madame Gres
Located in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR
Red satin sleeveless cocktail dress with see-through lace back and cape effect . No fabric tag composition but probably silk satin . One side is shiny ( the dress) and the other sid...
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Size: 38 (Fr) 8 (US) M
Sleeveless jacquard printed dress with asymmetrical draped over-lay Grès Paris
By Madame Gres
Located in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR
Sleeveless jacquard printed dress with asymmetrical draped over-lay. Polka-dots pattern jacquard. Fabric composition: silk Zip on the left side an...
Madame Grès Silk Modernist Bird Scarf, C.1970
By Madame Gres
Located in Atlanta, GA
Late 1960's or early 1970's Madame Grès silk scarf with wonderful graphics in shades of yellow, blue and red depicting a bird and floating polka dots i...