Aesthetic Period Silver and Gold Panel Cuff Bracelet Late Victorian

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Aesthetic Period Silver and Gold Panel Cuff Bracelet Late Victorian

About the Item

Toward the end of the Victorian era (which officially ended upon Queen Elizabeth's death in 1901), came the rise of what is now called the Aesthetic Period. The was defined —across all genres, including literature, architecture, and jewelry— as "art for art's sake," which is to say, the creation of something that was simply beautiful without an underlying "message" or deeper meaning. This is the sort of standard textbook definition of the period but it's not fully accurate. Because one must consider that the Victorian era spanned from 1837 to 1901. We all know how much more casual America has always been than the United Kingdom and yet even in America in the 1880s and 1890s, society was composed of layer upon layer of etiquette. It was an era where even the smallest gesture carried great significance. "Did his foot brush against hers under the table? Let's analyze this for the next nineteen days." So it's really best to consider the Aesthetic Period as being free from "deeper meaning" in a relative and not absolute way. This silver and gold hinged cuff bracelet from England is a perfect specimen from the Aesthetic Period as it features many of the design elements the era became known for. There is an overall Asian (then known as Oriental) influence to the design as seen in the three-panel configuration itself, the engraved checkerboard background, and the "tranquility" of the images portrayed. Asian (Oriental) art was enormously popular in the late 1800s and this bracelet reflects that obsession. But when we examine the images for content, we see that the Victorian jeweler who created this "art for art's sake" bracelet was unable to fabricate a piece of jewelry that was not, in fact, imbued with symbolism and meaning, all of which was well-known to the Victorian ladies at the time. In the first panel (from left to right) is an applied rectangular "frame" of rose gold which contains the first of three vignettes from nature. In this one, a green gold heron —incredibly detailed— stands among the cattails in a wetlands area. The Victorians saw the heron bird as a symbol of independence and grace. The Victorians likewise viewed cattails as symbolizing peace and tranquility. In the center panel, also framed in rose gold but this time the frame is round and has an almost pie-crust bevel, we find a luna moth of rose gold about to land on a delicate yellow gold branch of ivy. The luna moth symbolized beauty and sensuality, while ivy represented love and marriage. The third panel is once again framed in an applied rectangle of rose gold and here we find an owl in the foreground with stars and a crescent moon as a background. Well, of course, the owl represented wisdom. The crescent moon symbolized female empowerment. Stars were seen as representing guidance; not in the navigational sense of the word but rather in the "what do I want to do with my life?" sense. So what we have is a bracelet that represents an independent woman standing on her own with grace. She values beauty and passion. She seeks wisdom so that the direction her life takes is the direction her life ought to take. This was not a bracelet for the fussy, laced-up Victorian lady fainting on a velvet sofa because she has seen the bare ankle of a man as he crossed his legs in front of her. This bracelet was for the Victorian woman who perhaps dreamed of exploring the natural world on her own. Airplanes wouldn't be invented until this bracelet was about thirty-years-old. But when the woman wearing this bracelet heard the news of these new and magnificent flying machines, I imagine she might have thought, "Now this is something I would like to do." Measuring 36.43mm wide, the oval bracelet is very secure with its snap closure. The interior dimensions are 50.29mm by 54.84mm so it will be most comfortable on a small to medium-sized wrist. The rear of the cuff is smooth silver with only slight dings from wear. It is marked "Sterling" and features an unknown maker's mark but other marks have been polished away by time.

Metal:
Gold,Silver
Style:
Late Victorian
Place of Origin:
England
Period:
Late 19th Century
Date of Manufacture:
circa 1880s
Condition:
Wear consistent with age and use. Excellent condition with no signs of damage or repair. The smooth back of the bracelet shows minor dimpling from wear.
Seller Location:
Southbury, CT
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU158919580852