Cavalli Cheongsam

Whether they’re adorned with understated floral patterns or colorful prints that draw on the wonders of the animal kingdom, vintage Roberto Cavalli dresses and evening gowns, shirts and skirts are unapologetically exuberant. All of the seductive garments crafted at the luxury fashion house have long been associated with extravagance and red-carpet sophistication, and their stories begin in Central Italy.

Roberto Cavalli was born in Florence, Tuscany, in 1940 into an already artistically rich family — his mother was a tailor, and his grandfather, Giuseppe Rossi, was a member of an Italian art movement called Macchiaioli that shared common ground with Impressionist painters. Cavalli was creative at the onset and focused on textiles at the Florence Academy of Art. He garnered some high-profile attention with bold prints on knitwear.

After he patented an experimental and revolutionary process that saw him printing on lightweight leather, Cavalli secured commissions from major fashion houses such as Hermès and Pierre Cardin. He explored integrating handmade ornamentation in his designs and found limitless inspiration in the majestic creatures of the jungle.

In the early 1970s Cavalli unveiled his first namesake collection in Paris and the Sala Bianca of Palazzo Pitti in Florence. He then opened his inaugural boutique in France’s Saint-Tropez in 1972. While the designer’s printed denim offerings were deemed unsophisticated by the day’s couturiers — they looked down upon the material — Cavalli’s form-fitting, sensual cuts, innovative patchwork and obvious dedication to impeccable craftsmanship found admirers in the likes of Sophia Loren and Brigitte Bardot.

In 1980 Cavalli married former beauty pageant contestant Eva Düringer, who became his trusted business partner. Now a signature of the label, the pair introduced their first sand-blasted jeans in 1994 and later opened boutiques in Venice and elsewhere.

Cavalli’s designs sold all over the world, and the brand’s success helped pave the way for the introduction of a line called Just Cavalli that targeted younger consumers and RC Menswear to complement the array of day dresses, shoes, lingerie and coats and outerwear that were offered in his popular boutiques.

In 2005 Cavalli was asked to help reinvigorate Playboy’s iconic bunny costumes and, in 2006, model Kate Moss starred in his spring/summer ad campaign. A year later, Cavalli created an exclusive collection for H&M and designed costuming for Jennifer Lopez concerts as well as the Spice Girls.

Sicilian designer Fausto Puglisi was appointed creative consultant in 2020 at the Roberto Cavalli brand, which is now owned by Vision Investments.

Find vintage Roberto Cavalli clothing, accessories, handbags and purses and more on 1stDibs.

With entire museum exhibitions dedicated to examining fashion designers and their creations, we’re finally recognizing that costuming is art. Evening dresses over time have conveyed specific statements about social class, position and beliefs. Fashion is a powerful means of self-expression, and sophisticated vintage evening dresses and gowns by our favorite couturier play no small role in making us feel wonderful but, perhaps more importantly, making us feel like ourselves.

In the 16th century, dresses and gowns were so important that England's Queen Elizabeth I defined rules about what dresses women could wear — guidance included long skirts and fitted bodices. Forward-thinking designers have responded to this history.

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel reimagined traditionally masculine garments for feminine shapes, and her elegant evening dresses and gowns promoted comfort and grace in women’s wear that had been dominated in the previous century by layers of fabric. Christian Dior's gowns celebrated luxury and femininity in the late 1940s — and gave to women the gift of glamour they’d lost in the miserable years of the war. French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent introduced innovative and highly coveted dress designs in the 1960s while at the same time challenging sexist stereotypes about which members of society could wear tuxedos.

Works by unconventional British designer John Galliano — featured in houses like Givenchy and Dior — redefined limits that dressmakers faced in terms of material, construction and vision during the late 20th century. From his embroidered absinthe-green Oscars gown for actress Nicole Kidman to the iconic sleeveless Dior newspaper dress that Sex and the City’s Carrie Bradshaw made famous, Galliano’s intricate and multifaceted work is reliably collectible and newsworthy

Today’s designers target an increasingly broad audience with their boundary-crossing work, and their tendency to play off of each other’s ideas means that every walk down the runway is also a walk through an entire history of fashion design and dress craftsmanship.

Whether you gravitate toward backless maxi dresses or silk charmeuse gowns by Alexander McQueen or embellished, ruffled floral-print designs by Chloe or Versace, there is an extraordinary collection of vintage and designer evening dresses and gowns waiting for you on 1stDibs.