May 24, 2020Once upon a time, vintage clothing was sold in quirky little stores to artistic young people looking for a bargain. It had an edgy, alternative flair but rarely delivered grown-up glamour. Enter Cameron Silver. One of those artistic young people himself, the Beverly Hills, California–native traveled the country in the 1990s, performing German torch songs and haunting vintage stores along the way. Soon, he had an impressive collection of previously worn wares, along with a vision for giving a second life to what he referred to as “pre-loved” fashion. In 1997, he opened Decades on Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles.
Five years later, Silver was named to Time magazine’s list of the most influential people in fashion. “I thought it was a practical joke when I got the call,” he recalls, noting that receiving the Time honor remains one of his greatest thrills.
Since Decades’ opening, pre-loved styles have become a red-carpet mainstay. A short list of the celebrities Silver has worked with includes Chloë Sevigny, Marisa Tomei, Jennifer Lopez, Nicole Kidman, Jennifer Tilly, Kat Graham and the Kardashians.
“Decades was a destination for sustainability before it was on everyone’s mind,” Silver says. “We are a destination for individuality. And we’ve always been a place that matches the right piece with the right person. That is the greatest reward.”
Silver spoke with Introspective about his favorite finds and forgotten heroes.
What is the most extraordinary object you’ve handled?
An Yves Saint Laurent for Christian Dior crocodile and mink jacket from the 1960 Beatnik collection — it was hanging on a wire hanger in the seller’s hall closet! This was an extremely controversial design. It had a countercultural, sort of Brando-esque vibe that had never before been seen on a couture runway. Saint Laurent made street style exclusive. This moved fashion forward and changed the trajectory of his career [Dior let him go because of this collection].
Speaking about your experience as a collector, you’ve said that “with access came excess.” How do you keep the store edited?
We don’t do basic or boring. I like things that have a little twist, so even our basics are a little more special. Decades is a place of unexpected discovery, where you can find the things you didn’t know you wanted. We take a piece that could be sixty years old, but the way we style it is all about modernity.
In your opinion, who are the forgotten heroes of fashion?
A few months ago, I was looking at a collection that included a lot of dresses by Fabrice, the Haitian-born American designer who was popular in the early nineteen eighties. These were slip dresses, sequined and a little flashy. I thought they were great — fresh and modern. So now, I have renewed appreciation for Fabrice. That discovery process is one of the things that makes me excited about what I do.
What advice do you have for people beginning to incorporate vintage into their everyday wardrobes?
First and foremost, vintage doesn’t have to be that old. I like to expand the definition and instead say “pre-loved.” When I look at something — whether it’s two or two hundred years old — I always ask, “Does it look modern?” I also warn people not to get seduced by a designer label. Because you might see a mediocre design by a well-known label. Finally, condition matters! Ask yourself if it is wearable in its current incarnation.
Is there one design you’ve always hoped to find?
I’m good with what I’ve found so far. But I still like the unexpected — finding the thing I didn’t know I wanted to find. That’s what Decades has been about for the past twenty-three years. We are mystery merchants.
