1990s Kurt Wayne Gem Set Gold Owl Brooch

Kurt Wayne brought an optimistic and playful style to the art of making jewelry. Celebrated by those in the know for his alluring, offbeat creations that feature south sea pearls, emeralds and more, Wayne strayed from conventional jewelry design of the time, making such bold decisions as setting a square-cut diamond in the center of a polished orb of black onyx. The Austrian-born designer produced lively pendants, rings and brooches made to resemble frogs, canaries and owls, and with radiant starbursts and clustered stones, Wayne's style was meant to bedazzle as much as it was to stoke the imagination.

Not much is known about the life of Kurt Wayne. He is believed to have been born in 1909, in Vienna, and was reportedly fostered by a jeweler at the age of ten. Under the jeweler's tutelage, Wayne learned about watchmaking and how to work with gold, silver and precious stones.

At the time, the whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery that had characterized the Art Nouveau style — cemented in Viennese culture by artists such as those in the Wiener Werkstätte collective and others working in the Jugendstil style in Germany and Austria — had given way to Art Deco’s geometric diamond brooches and long pearl necklaces.

In 1937, Wayne emigrated to the United States and settled in New York City. He is said to have established his own business in 1945 and found great success in making jewelry. Throughout his career, he developed close ties to the Zale family of Zale jewelers and with Stanley Marcus of Neiman Marcus.

Wayne created imaginative modernist cocktail rings and other accessories during the 1970s and 1980s that are still widely collected today.

Find vintage Kurt Wayne necklaces, earrings and bracelets on 1stDibs.