Kurt Wayne Brooch

Kurt Wayne brought an optimistic and playful style to the art of making jewelry. Celebrated by those in the know for his alluring, offbeat creations that feature south sea pearls, emeralds and more, Wayne strayed from conventional jewelry design of the time, making such bold decisions as setting a square-cut diamond in the center of a polished orb of black onyx. The Austrian-born designer produced lively pendants, rings and brooches made to resemble frogs, canaries and owls, and with radiant starbursts and clustered stones, Wayne's style was meant to bedazzle as much as it was to stoke the imagination.

Not much is known about the life of Kurt Wayne. He is believed to have been born in 1909, in Vienna, and was reportedly fostered by a jeweler at the age of ten. Under the jeweler's tutelage, Wayne learned about watchmaking and how to work with gold, silver and precious stones.

At the time, the whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery that had characterized the Art Nouveau style — cemented in Viennese culture by artists such as those in the Wiener Werkstätte collective and others working in the Jugendstil style in Germany and Austria — had given way to Art Deco’s geometric diamond brooches and long pearl necklaces.

In 1937, Wayne emigrated to the United States and settled in New York City. He is said to have established his own business in 1945 and found great success in making jewelry. Throughout his career, he developed close ties to the Zale family of Zale jewelers and with Stanley Marcus of Neiman Marcus.

Wayne created imaginative modernist cocktail rings and other accessories during the 1970s and 1980s that are still widely collected today.  

Find vintage Kurt Wayne necklaces, earrings and bracelets on 1stDibs.

Antique and vintage brooches, which are decorative jewels traditionally pinned to garments and used to fasten pieces of clothing together where needed, have seen increasing popularity in recent years.

Given their long history, brooches have expectedly taken on a variety of different shapes and forms over time, with jewelers turning to assorted methods of ornamentation for these accessories, including enameling and the integration of pearls and gemstones.

Cameo brooches that originated during the Victorian age are characterized by a shell carved in raised relief that feature portraits of a woman’s profile, while 19th-century micromosaic brooches, comprising innumerable individually placed glass fragments, sometimes feature miniature depictions of a pastoral scene in daily Roman life.

At one time, brooches were symbols of wealth, made primarily from the finest metals and showcasing exquisite precious gemstones. Today, these jewels are inclusive and universal, and you don’t have to travel very far to find an admirer of brooches. They can be richly geometric in form, such as the ornate diamond pins dating from the Art Deco era, or designer-specific, such as the celebrated naturalistic works created by Tiffany & Co., the milk glass and gold confections crafted by Trifari or handmade vintage Chanel brooches of silk or laminated sheer fabric.

Brooches are versatile and adaptable. These decorative accessories can be worn in your hair, on hats, scarves and on the lower point of V-neck clothing. Pin a dazzling brooch to the lapel of your blazer-and-tee combo or add a cluster of smaller pins to your overcoat. And while brooches have their place in “mourning jewelry,” in that a mourning brooch is representative of your connection to a lost loved one, they’re widely seen as romantic and symbolic of love, so much so that a hardcore brooch enthusiast might advocate for brooches to be worn over the heart.

Today, find a wide variety of antique and vintage brooches on 1stDibs, including gold brooches, sapphire brooches and more.