Who says the only disruptors work in tech? During fashion weeks around the globe, the Autumn/Winter 2016–17 runways buzzed with their own kind of rebellious energy, from Yeezy’s athleisure looks to the homage by Moschino’s Jeremy Scott to the 15th-century Bonfires of the Vanities. Of course, to some, “disruption” may sound like another way of saying “purging last season,” something fashionistas are known for. But the handful of designers seen here went far beyond that, shattering notions of dressing in such provocative ways they sent the industry reeling. Using these designers as a jumping-off point, Introspective gathered a few choice items made by creative disruptors working in a variety of mediums, from modernist furniture masters to Surrealist artists.
In Paris, Hedi Slimane, late of Saint Laurent, boldly went where Yves had gone in the 1960s and ’80s, providing a shock to the system, with aggressive angles and primary colors that are ahead of the fashion curve.
1. Émile Gilioli tapestry, 1960s, offered by Boccara 2. Asch Grossbardt insect brooch, ca. 1990, offered by Stella Rubin 3. Wingback chair attributed to Mogens Lassen, 1940s, offered by Bloomberry 4. Herbert Levine Mondrian shoes, 1960s, offered by Vintage Luxury 5. Louis H.Guidetti Mondrian rug, 1960s, offered by Mark Frisman 6. Madrid for HB (“Mondrian” St. Laurent coat), 1964, by Frank Horvat, offered by IFAC 7. Not Even the Queen and Lord of Lords, 2015, by Grégoire Devin for DaLo, offered by Galerie Sandy Toupenet
Demna Gvasalia’s Paris debut provoked a Twitter frenzy when he sent models down the runway in masterfully tailored coats and skirts that seemed to move away from the body, thus upending the sculptural forms and serene norms of Balenciaga.
1. Bernice Goodspeed cuff bracelet, 1940, offered by Lauren Stanley Silver 2. Alice Colonieu vase, 1950s, offered by Candau Fine Antiques & Art 3. Victor Dinovi coffee table, 21st century, offered by Chez Camille 4. Sami Hayek acrylic 270 chair, 2012, offered by Twentieth 5. Balenciaga Evening Dress, 1951, by Carl Oscar August Erickson, offered by Michael H Berkowitz 6. Bernd Munsteiner for H. Stern amethyst and diamond ring, ca. 1970, offered by Kimberly Klosterman Jewelry
Literally creating beauty from ashes, Jeremy Scott unveiled in Milan a subversive collection of evening dresses charred with burn marks that accentuated Moschino’s tradition of wit and parody. It’s a Bonfire of the Vanities, redux.
1. Controlled Burn #4, 2013, by Kevin Cooley, offered by Kopeikin Gallery 2. Karen Swami Kintzugi smoke-fired vase, 2015, offered by Karen SWAMI Céramiques 3. Kaspar Hamacher Ausgebrannt lounge chair, 2010s, offered by BUNDER/BRAEM 4. Area, 2016, by Skylar Fein, offered by Jonathan Ferrara 5. Suzanne Rippe traverse bench, 2015, offered by Galerie Sandy Toupenet 6. Cohen & Charles vesta case, 1904, offered by AC Silver 7. Maarten Baas winding staircase, 2004, offered by De Jong Interieur
In New York, within the vastness of a Madison Square Garden awash with the sounds of Kanye West’s latest album, The Life of Pablo, stood a serene tableau vivant. West’s clothes? Distilled, essential, quiet, earthy.
1. Koch & Lowy pendant, 1950s, offered by Orange 2. Neither Here Nor There, 2014, by Kinuko Imai Hoffman, offered by Gerald Bland 3. Ingmar Relling Siesta chairs and coffee table, 1964, offered by Modern Times 4. Eric Schmitt console, 21st century, offered by Valerie Goodman Gallery 5. Harry Bertoia Bush sculpture, ca. 1970, offered by Leah Gordon 6. Shadow, 1990, by Günter Knop, offered by Phyllis Lucas Gallery
In London, Sarah Burton channeled the Surrealist legends Elsa Schiaparelli, Salvador Dalí and Man Ray in her haunting, moonless-midnight-toned collection for Alexander McQueen — the beauty of noir.
1. Cartier pocket watch, ca. 1927, offered by Aaron Faber 2. Cameo ring, ca. 1905, offered by Kentshire 3. Hubert le Gall Gouttes mirrors, 21st century, offered by Twenty First Gallery 4. Stephanie Parmentier Sunset and Sunrise tables, ca. 2011, offered by Themes & Variations 5. La Divina Commedia (The Divine Comedy), ca. 1960, by Salvador Dalí, offered by Designitalia Midcentury Modern 6. Maison Arlus sconces, 1960s, offered by Antiquite De Flore 7. The Essence of Dalí, 1950, by Philippe Halsman, offered by the Benjaman Gallery 8. Persian Carpet, early 1900s, offered by Nazmiyal Collection
Engineering fashion’s future, Iris van Herpen experiments with new forms created by laser-cutting and hand-weaving state-of-the-art materials. As she displayed in Paris, her way forward is the sublimely human path of a post-disruptor.
1. Zaha Hadid Silene Cuff II, 2015, offered by Leila Heller Gallery 2. Nacho Carbonell Luciferase, 2011, offered by Galerie BSL 3. Émile Gallé pitcher, ca. 1900, offered by Macklowe Gallery 4. George Nakashima Long Chair, 1952, offered by Moderne Gallery 5. Lucie Rie trumpet vase, 1950s, offered by Jeffrey Spahn Gallery 6. Fernando and Humberto Campana Zig Zag screen, 2001, offered by Historical Design 7. Bind, 2013, by Sidonie Villere, offered by Jonathan Ferrara