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Important Rare Set of Nine Appliqué Silk Panels by Marianna Elmo
About the Item
Important and rare set of nine exquisite New Testament silk thread appliqué panels known as Broderies à fils collés. Each panel depicts a distinct biblical scene, rendered with remarkable precision and delicacy. Signed Marianna Elmo, Italy, Lecce, circa 1750.
Italy
Circa 1750, 1755
Frame H: 95 cms (37.5 ins)
Frame W: 75 cms (30 ins)
Panel Height : 26 cms (10.2 ins)
Panel Width: 20 cms (7.9 ins)
Centre Height: 24 cms (9.5 ins)
Centre Width: 18 cms (7 ins)
Divine Threads: A Set of Nine New Testament Appliqué Panels by Marianna Elmo
Scenes from the New Testament
The scenes include the Annunciation, the Visitation, the Nativity, the Holy Family (x2), The Holy Father and Jesus, Jesus taken to the temple, the raising of Lazarus from the dead, and the Resurrection. Each is rendered with remarkable precision and delicacy.
Marianna Elmo
Daughter of painter Serafino Elmo, an important artist in Lecce during the 18th century, Marianna was an embroiderer who used the technique of broderie à fils collés (glued thread embroidery). She created images and landscapes by gluing polychrome silk threads onto a cardboard support, covered with a layer of virgin wax. The faces and limbs of the figures are crafted from cut silk or satin shapes, further painted with tempera or watercolor to achieve lifelike detail. The panels contain many figures embroidered and painted with remarkable skill.
Marianna translated the paintings of her father and of famous painters of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries into colored threads and is considered the leader of the school of Lecce embroiderers. Her fame reached Naples. Leonardo Quesi, Amato Quesi, Gaetano and Angelo Pati, and Irene Elmo, Marianna’s sister, belonged to this school.
Marianna’s work is recognized for its technical brilliance and artistic sensitivity. Two dated works by her hand are known in museum collections: *The Flight into Egypt* (1752, Museum of San Martino, Naples) and a casket reliquary of St. Mary of Banzi (1754, Banzi, Province of Potenza). Additionally, the Pinacoteca Provinciale di Bari holds two signed pieces by the artist.
The panels were often used in religious settings or as embellishments for sacred objects. The compositions are inspired by prints, a common practice among embroiderers of the period, and feature key moments from the New Testament, including scenes from the life of Christ and the Virgin Mary.
Medium
The images are created using the technique known as broderie à fils collés, where thin polychrome silk threads and metal threads are meticulously applied side by side onto a virgin beeswax-coated cardboard base. The faces and limbs of the figures are crafted from cut satin shapes, further painted with tempera or watercolor to achieve lifelike detail. The panels contain many figures embroidered and painted with remarkable skill.
Dimensions
– 8 panels: 26 x 20 cm each
– Centre panel: 24 x 18 cm
Provenance
Acquired from Sotheby’s, London, in the 1960s by the owner’s father; reframed in Paris by Christian de Beaumont.
Exhibitions and Renewed Interest
Marianna Elmo’s work gained renewed attention through the 2003-2004 exhibition Marianna Elmo and The Art of Embroidery in Southern Italy in the First Half of the Eighteenth Century at the Pinacoteca Provinciale di Bari. This exhibition, curated by Clara Gelao, highlighted the significance of her contributions to the art of embroidery. Further recent recognition came with the 2007-2008 exhibition L’Arte delle Donne, dal Rinascimento al Surrealismo (The Art of Women, from the Renaissance to Surrealism) at the Palazzo Reale Royal Palace in Milan.
Significance
This set of nine panels is a rare and exceptional example of Marianna Elmo’s mid-eighteenth-century artistry, showcasing her mastery of “glued thread” embroidery and her genius for developing religious themes into intricate compositions. They represent a significant contribution to the history of the Lecce Workshop of embroidery in Southern Italy.
18th-century information suggests that these works were highly valued by royalty and cultured aristocracy. We know of a casket decorated by Marianna Elmo with high-quality allegorical scenes, commissioned by Cardinal Enrico Enriquez and dated 1754. It is highly probable that alongside these commissioned works, the workshops produced many pieces for sale to a broader audience, including perhaps travelers engaged in the Grand Tour, who may have brought them back to their home countries.
Condition
These nine panels are in excellent condition. Very few threads have slipped, as can be seen on close inspection of the photographs.
Signature
Marianna was proud of her work, which she often signed using various spellings, as was common practice at the time. The centre panel is signed “MariAnna Elmo,” and four of the other panels bear her initials “AE” (Anna Elmo).
Comparable Works
– The Flight into Egypt (1752, Museum of San Martino, Naples)
– Casket reliquary of St. Mary of Banzi (1754, Banzi, Province of Potenza)
– A pair of Italian appliqué metal-thread and silk thread and painted silk portraits, depicting Charles VII, King of Naples and Sicily, and his wife Maria Amalia of Saxony, signed Marianna Elmo, Lecce mid-18th century (Sotheby’s London, Lot 32, 6 July 2010, Sold for £15,000).
- Dimensions:Height: 37.5 in (95.25 cm)Width: 30 in (76.2 cm)Depth: 1 in (2.54 cm)
- Materials and Techniques:
- Period:
- Date of Manufacture:1750
- Condition:Minor losses. Please see the photos, some of the silk thread in slightly loose in places.
- Seller Location:London, GB
- Reference Number:1stDibs: LU1204243195662
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