August 25, 2024It’s one thing to join your family’s jewelry business, but it’s quite another to take that knowledge and experience and spin it into a new enterprise aimed at attracting a new generation of collectors.
After graduating from college and then earning degrees from the Gemological Institute of America in Carlsbad, California, sisters Reshma and Roshni Kothari spent the better part of two decades working in downtown Los Angeles with their father, Virendra, at Diagem Imports. A wholesale establishment specializing in loose gems and finished jewelry, Diagem was founded in 1984, not long after the Kothari family immigrated to the U.S. from Mumbai.
Having learned from their father’s expertise — and inspired by their shared lifelong love of colored gemstones — the Kothari sisters decided to start a sister company, Roshe Jewels, in 2017.
“Our brand focuses mainly on statement rings and earrings that are crafted with natural gemstones,” says Reshma, who handles product development and operations for Roshe while Roshni oversees design. “The distinctive color combinations in our designs give our pieces an edge.”
For their fledgling jewelry business to succeed, Reshma and Roshni first had to find and develop their brand’s voice. They discovered that they were most passionate about vibrant pieces that incorporate gemstones in luscious lollipop hues, like Mexican fire opals, swimming-pool-blue apatites and Barbie-pink sapphires. Then, over time, they played with surrounding a central “hero” stone with smaller gems in a range of cuts and complementary colors. The combinations have become increasingly more daring and unconventional, much to the delight of their clients.
The pandemic helped cement Roshe Jewels’ design sensibility; when travel to their gem suppliers in Thailand, Sri Lanka and India came to a halt, they opened the family business’s vault and made use of the stones they had on hand.
“At first, it was challenging,” says Roshni. “But when we started experimenting with color combinations that were not normally placed together, we realized we were creating some very distinctive pieces. Soon after, we started receiving positive responses, so we decided to keep developing our collections in this direction.”
Today, the specific aesthetic of Roshe’s designs requires that the sisters source gemstones through a diverse network of suppliers located all over the world.
Below, Reshma shares more about Roshe and the magic of its mixed-not-matched approach.
What inspires the color combinations you create?
The pandemic encouraged us to explore and allowed us to confidently break away from the traditional way gemstones have been placed together. Today, the color mixing is inspired by the stones themselves. For example, if it is a statement ring, we start with the center stone, and Roshni hand selects each surrounding stone to complement its saturation and depth. But these surrounding gems also adhere to their own unique palette, complementing each other as well as the center stone. It’s a hands-on process at the bench, where we experiment and go through different combinations to arrive at what is most appealing, striking and unusual.
Is there one colored stone that is an icon of the Roshe brand?
For us, our icon gem has to be the Mexican fire opal. It’s one of those gems that is not commonly experimented with. From the moment we brought it into our collections, we have received so much interest and acknowledgement. Our fire opals are bold and bright. The term fire refers to the colors of red, orange and yellow, and the more saturated, vivid and fiery the hue is, the more desirable and valuable the gem is. Some fire opals have a jelly-like appearance, which makes them translucent. But the ones that are clear and free of cloudiness are the most desirable. I personally find the orange hue the most striking, and this color tends to be most in demand.
You work with very fine precious stones but also with gems you don’t often see in fine jewelry. What draws you to them?
We believe stones like amethyst, apatites, blue zircons, peridots, turquoises, prasiolites, et cetera, offer a unique beauty and have bold characteristics. They are not commonly used to create statement pieces, but they are beautiful and deserve attention. Some of these gems are more affordable than the more commonly known precious gems, and after getting a Roshe makeover, they become even more exceptional. We like to create pieces that are both affordable and luxurious.
Many people believe that gemstones possess metaphysical properties. What’s your take on this?
Yes, we believe that gemstones do carry a certain energy and have great meaning and value to those who believe in this symbolism. Many clients come to us looking for gemstone jewelry that can assist in energy, healing, protection and comfort. I always wear the morganite ring my mother gave me. Morganite promotes internal peace and spiritual growth. And, combined with the unconditional love from my mother, it’s the most special ring to me in my entire personal collection of jewels.
Is it true that high-quality gemstones are becoming more difficult to source?
Yes. This is happening for several reasons: Fewer new deposits are being discovered. There are environmental regulations and political instabilities in certain countries that are causing mining restrictions. And overall, the demand for colored gemstones is increasing, which puts a strain on the supply, making high-quality gems, such as Paraiba tourmalines and tanzanites, not only scarce but more expensive.
Knowing this, what is your best insider tip for collectors?
Always buy from a company that has been in business for a long time. Building a network of reputable and resourceful dealers can provide valuable insights and access to unique pieces. Stay informed about market trends and the availability of certain stones so that you can buy from the standpoint of investment and continue to be in the know about gems — including those you already own — that may have increased in value.
